Seahunt

A couple posters who I respect said it is a bad idea to put trichlor pucks in the skimmer (in-ground plaster pool). I did not want to hi-jack another thread so I started this. They said the acid builds up while the pump is off then "jolts" the system at start-up. I am paraphrasing but you get the idea. My question is, I have been doing this for 8 years and have not had a problem. My skimmer baskets are fine and all my equipment is original (Pentaire pump and cartridge filter). I don't have a heater. I did use liquid chlorine last year and part of the year before to reduce the CYA. I really do not like the floaters in the pool. Have I been lucky or is my system (e.g., no heater) really not susceptible to Trichlor pucks in the skimmer? Thanks again!

I put chlorine tabs in the skimmer baskets (until CYA is sufficient then use liquid chlorine). I don't think a floater is enough (unless you have several). An inline chlorinator is a good option also.

My inground plaster pool tile grout seems to be suffering from efflorescence (as pointed out by a forum member). It seems to be getting worse each year. This year when I removed the cover, there were some pretty bad patches of crystals on the tile. I was able to remove it with muriatic acid. However, I notice some gaps are starting to show behind the tile when looking from the top. I assume the grout will contiune to come out until the tiles fall off. Is there something I should do now before the tile starts falling off? Last year I raised the calcium hardness from around 100 to 150 to try to made sure that is not the problem. The other interesting thing is the crystalls formed over the winter when the pool water level was kept below the tile (with the exception of the two 2 foot snows we had in Maryland!). The pool is 8 years old. Thanks for any advice!

what about the scaling? doesn't the grout get removed? ok thanks so scale is really just a build up on the pool wall and floor surface? I think it is the opposite. Low CH causes the water to pull from the plaster and grout. This could losen tiles. What say the experts?

I have found Leslie's to be the best. They have the best prices and are the only ones that carry 12% liquid chlorine (chlorox is 6%) in my area (Annapolis MD). That being said, man are the chemicals expensive. Study the BBB method as it can help keep costs down.

Wow. What a great story. I never thought of the prefab pools but I suspect that is what you did. You are the man! I just wanted to add a comment the constructin mgr. said when building my pool (concrete). We were watching the excavator and it was quite impressive the percision with which he quided that large bucket. The mgr. said "you really have to be good to do this (excavate). They had a guy order a pool who ran a construction Co. and he ran and excavator all day. He said, I can excavate and save some money. The pool guy said they typically schedule 1 day for excavation. However, the construction guy messed up the excavation so much it took 3 days to fix his mistake." As noted above however, a prefab pool would eliminate this risk.

This is so true...don't ask me how I know

How are you testing the pool water to get the reading. Are you using a test kit or strips? I'm suspicious that with that much chlorine added, your chlorine reading is bleaching out (e.g., levels are too high to be read).

$300 for inground pool with safety cover in Maryland. If you watch them do it and take notes, you can do it next time.

No I don't. I'm a BBB guy. I recommend you search google or start a seperate thread asking that question exactly. Don't want to give you bad info. Good luck.

I assume you don't have algea now? If so, Polyquat 60 added would be a good thing (it's really of no help after algae is already present). If you don't want to add chlorine now, I recommend adding some liquid chlorine in a month or so. Just some Chlorox is fine. I add two gallons for my 20k gal pool. If you have an auxuilary pump to mix it, even better. Also, add the chlorox in the spring as well. I basically do this in November and March (I close/open in Oct/May). This helps keep the algae from starting/growing. Just my $.02.

I have an in-ground pool and these are the best instructions for closing: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school..._in_ground_pool If you have an above ground I suspect these are good as they are from the same folks: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school...%20group%20pool

I have a mesh cover. I think it works good because the water does not pond on the top of the cover, it goes through it. This is good for safety reasons. The mesh cover I have (Anchor) could also support a person if the walked over it (not recommended, however). Also, the pool slowly fills up over winter to where I don't have to add water at opening time. This could be dangerous with toddlers however as if the pool was near full, a toddler would be knee high in water if they walked out to the middle. The bad side is some small stuff and light (for algae growth) does get through. I manage this by adding a couple gallons of bleach under the cover in November and March. I live in Maryland, colder states probably don't have to worry too much about the water getting warm enough during the off-season for algea to grow. My cover has been used for 6 seasons and still looks pretty good (except for where my sisters dog ran across it several years ago and his nails punched small holes in it...argh).

Got it. Thanks!

All the pool stores in my area have run out of liquid chlorine. I have been going through my shed and found some 1 lb bags of Leslie' Chlor Brite. I have been adding them as my CYA is fairly low (40) and I only have 4 bags. I found a 1lb bag of Leslie's Fresh 'n Clear. It is described ont their web site as: Fresh 'N Clear is a new quick-dissolving, non-chlorine shock that makes your pool sparkle and leaves your water well... 'Fresh and Clear'. By eliminating organic contaminants it allows chlorine to work more effectively. And you can swim as soon as fifteen minutes after use. What is it? Should I throw it in?

I have had a pool for 8 years and the problems caused by ice have been over many years. For example, the skimmer boxes have raised and cracked the joints around the coping. I fixed this a couple years ago by re-caulking the perimiter of the pool. My point is, i'm not sure all problems would be evident after the first year. However, I live in Maryland, not Canada. Would it be possible to have them excavate the area during construction so it is flat then put in a retaining wall?

I have a diving board and think it great. I would say we (adults and kids) spend an even amount of time in each end. Had the pool since 2002 and did have to replace the diving board ($400) but that was because I installed it incorrectly one year. I don't think they are a safety hazard. One interesting thing is that diving boards actually clearly mark the deep end of the pool reducing the chances of someone diving in the shallow end. The landscaping is something I have improved little by little over the years. It's fun as a long term project and more affordable. As for waterfalls, etc., they are probably where you would add the most cost and problems. As for lighting, the previous response sounds like awesome stuff. The only thing I would have done differently in my pool was have the light source not be visible. For example, when you view our pool from the house or patio, the light is visible on the left in the deep end under the diving board. I would have mounted two smaller lights on the house side with the lights pointing away. This way you would see the light but not the source. But actually, I rarely use the light (I think it's too bright and attracts bugs). Float candles in the pool when you are not using it or tiki torches, etc. Algea will not be a problem with proper sanitation and care (e.g., algaecide, water circtulation, etc.). I have a gunite pool. I just think it's more durable. Just my $.02 The area you need for volleyball sounds large. Not sure if you play in deep or shallow end but that may drive your design more than anything. Good luck.

The brush I have has plastic bristles with some metal ones interspersed.

Do you have a pool brush? I had a friend using black flippers on the new pool and left black marks everywhere on the wall where he pushed off. The brush and a little elbow grease and they were gone. Oops. Just noticed your plaster is only two weeks old. Better check with the plaster company about cure time before using a brush.

Just wait a day or two and retest. Did you remove the sources of chlorine (e.g., tabs in skimmer baskets, floats, ect.)? Do you know the CYA level in your pool?

What is this? It showed up again this year. I believe it started below the water line but it is now above it. I have several spots. I raised my Calcium Hardness from 170 to 270 when it first started showing up. Don't know if that is the right thing to do. Any advice would be appreciated. I have a 22k gal in-ground concrete pool.

One other thing that may be helpful with well water. I have well water and a conditioner. If you have a conditioner (removes metals) I only use water that has been treated. Our conditioner has a gage that tells how much treated water remains in the system. When filling the pool, I stop before the treated water gage gets to 0. It may take a couple days (the water is treated over-nite by the conditioner), but this way I don't add water with metals in it to the pool. Of course, with a new pool you have to fill it right away but from now on.... Just an idea FWIW.

Thanks for the info Richard, very helpful. I'm not very techical so forgive me if I butcher your info by trying to understand it but...are you saying the combo of CYA and FC is really what this is about. In your example about the indoor pool, no CYA and low chlorine is actually more damaging then high CYA and high chlorine. Indoor pool with no CYA and 1-2 ppm FC is worse then my pool with CYA 50 and 5 ppm FC. That is, the CYA kind of minimizes the harmful (and sanitizing) effects of the FC? Thanks again!

If it is a new pool and they have not laid the electric yet, yes, it's a good idea to have extra lines put in. I had them put one in and they only charged me $100. It would be very expensive to do after the fact.

My CYA of my inground concrete pool is 50. Therefore, I keep my FC around 5 (10% of CYA). After adding liquid chlorine I read the back of the bottle. It said to keep FC between 1.5 and 3 and DO NOT swim if it is above 4. It then went on to say how chlorine is dangerous to humans. Of course, I know you souldn't drink the stuff but don't swim if FC is above 4? Is this stuff the lawyers made them put or is it really dangerous?