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  1. Can you elaborate why you think the propane goes halfway? What observations or test values make you think this? Are you measuring the pressure? How have you tested that the valve works or not?
  2. If you see the glowing ignitor then you need to listen for the audible click of the gas valve. If you don't hear the click then you need to test for the ~24VAC on the gas valve leads. The ~24VAC will only be there for a few seconds during the cycle. If you have the ~24VAC then, you may need a gas valve. If you do hear the click and still no flame then, you need to vent your gas line. My gas line is black pipe which is known to rust on the inside from moisture in the line. I typically loosen my union or my drip leg and let it vent. Obviously, you don't want to be smoking or near an open flame when doing this. I think this process may also reset your gas valve and regulator. If you don't have a regulator next to your heater then, you need one for sure!
  3. It could be the contactor in the automation panel that is connected to the motor. Typically you can measure 24V at the contactor on the coil side to ensure that the automation is applying voltage to the contactor. Then measure 240V on the line (source) side and nothing on the load (motor) side.
  4. I think we're gonna need to see pictures of the liner area that is suspect.
  5. Did you say that you replaced this part "Next were points 6 & 7 (lopress fuse link). 6 had no volts (orange wire) but 7 did (blue wire)." For diagnostics, most folks use a set of jumpers to detect a defective sensor. You can bypass all the safety switches to see if one of them is the culprit. I don't think the HSI uses 24V, I think it is typically 120VAC or 240VAC...so, be careful with that one. Usually, you can see the HSI glow. If it does, its good. If see a gap in the middle of it, it is bad.
  6. It appears that you have located the correct wires. However, before you replace the sensors, remove the wires and reseat them to scrape of any corrosion that may be preventing an accurate signal to the controller. If you still get the error code, then try using a jumper to bypass one sensor at a time. This will allow you figure out which one is the culprit. It will also indicate that the problem is with the sensor and not in the wiring or controller. Good Luck!
  7. You may have to use a net to get the big stuff and a vacuum to get the smaller items. You can use your Waste valve and skimmer to run the vacuum but, the debris will go through your pump. Fortunately, you can skip your DE filter.
  8. You can buy a multiport valve with the backwash option in it. Then, you just have to provide a way to dispose of the water. Typically, it is routed to the same place as you do to drain the pool. With my own DE filter, when I get to around 25psi, I backwash. After that, the pressure drops back down to the normal 15psi. I can do this a few times before I have to breakdown the filter and hose off the grids. It is important to note that when you backwash a DE filter, the DE is removed and goes out with the water. So, you have to replace what is removed.
  9. I agree with rkovelman that pH also needs to be monitored. However, instead of liquid chlorine, I would use the pucks. They contain the CYA that you need, however, they also lower the pH dramatically. So, buy some Soda Ash if you buy the pucks and keep an eye on the pH as well. Again, try the Green Away first and follow its directions. If you have a robot cleaner (like a Dolphin), I would use it in conjunction with the main filter. Its like having two filters and does great for removing algae off of vinyl liners. Make sure you clean it every day too.
  10. That is an old style disconnect and fairly common. I don't think you can get it anymore. Try replacing the entire unit with a newer version.
  11. In addition to the pressure switch, there is also the HI Limit switches that are on that same housing. Check to see that you didn't pull a wire off or one of the switch terminals.
  12. OK...I've seen this at the hotel Jacuzzi. My kids would slam their hands over the underwater jets to see how high they could get the water to shoot out of the snorkel. Perhaps the cover can be removed from the jet to allow the blockage to pass through into the pool.
  13. What kind of filter do you have? Try using Green Out. Follow directions. Backwash or hose out your filter every day after two days of Green Away. You need to get the algae off the filter and keep it off. Continue to test twice a day and add Chlorine.
  14. Do you have a wiring diagram for this unit? Do you know how to read it? Are you electrically inclined? What is the Model#? Is your surface ignitor (HSI) glowing when you hear the click? Also, how far away is the gas regulator? In general, it is best to get to know your pool heater. You WILL have problems with it in the future and the more you know about it, the faster you can resolve the issues.
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