mart242

ah yes, 1/8 of the electricity. I had forgotten about that. I wanted a dual speed pump but my pool builder didn't offer one at a reasonable price

protect-a-child? That's' what I use.

Why dual speed? I remember doing the calculation and the savings were not really there because in the end you still need to pump the same amount of water x times. You either pump rapidly for a shorter period of time or slowly for a long period of time.

3 and 1? Don't fill it! Kids grow so fast that they'll be spending their days in the pool soon. Look up the protect-a-child fence system and put that around the pool.

That's EXACTLY my situation. I'll try to post pictures tonight but they basically did a concrete retaining wall on the low side and have the "high" side 1' lower to reduce the height of the retaining wall on the low side. If I forget to post pictures and you want to see them, just send me a personnal message on the forum.

Oh yeah, I'll definitely be doing that. I'm actually not worried about the kid as much as my toes. The diving board will be there when they use the pool and they are too young to be around the pool without supervision (ie: when the pool is closer). Plus,. with my track record, it's 100% sure that my toes will end up on the jig if nothing is in the way

Some of the bolts were part of the "jig" (the part that gets poured in concrete) so I can't do much about them but I could certainly replace the nuts and washer by proper ones. I could paint them after assembly but since I'm planning on removing the board every winter the pain in the threads wouldn't be that great. I guess U could use a tap & die kit to clean the threads every year, that wouldn't be too much trouble. I'll have to look into sacrificial anodes because the board is connected to the pool bonding "circuit". From what I remember reading on this forum, they were not perfect though..

Update.. we've been getting really crappy weather up here (getting cold and rainy! winter is coming!) and there was no guarantee of when I would get the diving board from the US since it's shipped from the manufacturer directly (could be up to 10 days) so I told my installer to go ahead with the regular diving board he uses. He said that no one ever complained about rust and he's been doing that for a while. So of course, the day after they poured the concrete the supplier finally gets back to the installer saying that he can get the salt pool dive system Oh well. I guess I'll just maintain the diving board base better to reduce the rust. The concrete deck turned out great so I'm pretty happy overall.

I'm located in Canada and availability seems to be an issue.. I'm pushing the issue and I think that I may simply order one from the US and pick it up at the border even if that means delaying the concrete by a few days. The anchors / jigs aren't the same so it's not like I can simply change the diving board down the road. Any recommendations for a good 6' jump board? (ie: some spring in the base, some spring in the board)

I'm having a pool built (steel + vinyl) and the pool builder is planning to put a SR Smith Frontier II diving board (w/ spring). I've noticed that SR Smith now has a diving board made for salt water pools but it appears that my pool builder can't get it. If he goes ahead with the Frontier II board, can I expect it to rust quickly and have to replace it soon? The boards don't have the same "footprint" so it can't be changed down the road without chipping away the concrete.. On the other hand, I wouldn't be surprised if SR Smith isn't simply trying to get a larger market share by attracting customers with salt water pool saying that "hey, we're the only one with a board made for SW Pools!", ie: maybe the Frontier II board would be fine.. The pool builder seems to think that because it will be bonded no rust will appear. The boards are there: http://www.srsmith.com/fun_games/products....ory=Jump+Boards THanks

Inspectors around here are known to tell you "it fails, fix X" even though you have X, Y and Z that are incorrect so you fix it and then call again, waste another day (since 24 - 48 hours notice is required) for him to show up only to be told to fix "Y" this time. As a homeowner, you're also at the bottom of the queue and MUST wait for the inspector to show up. Good contractors are on the "pre-approved" list and don't need the inspection if the inspector can't show up. My two young kids also make it hard to find some time to do the work myself.. so doing it twice (and going 50 times to home depot to buy whatever piece is missing) isn't that great.. Now don't get me wrong. I'd still like to do the work and am still feeling ripped off by paying a damn electrician to do that work...

Check on the hayward site, there's a calculator for that. It depends on flow rate and how many water turnover you want per day

See, my understanding is that in Ontario, that's not even required. My research indicates that no one appears to do this. Hell, even 3M Canada doesn't have that potting compound in stock. The other thing that discouraged me a bit what that I thought that I knew the code "well enough" to attempt the work but the electrician asked me a few questions to see how I'd do the work and told me right away why it would fail the inspection. Things like: - I would have thought that a single bonding point to the vinyl coated chainlink fence would be enough but it turns out that it's not the case since the top rain can't be assumed to make a reliable connection - Even though I'd run the electrical wire to outside in a PVC conduit to LB outside, I had forgotten that a box must be inside the house as well (not LB) so that the conduit can't be pulled out if someone pulls the LB outside - For proper bonding in different spots, a wire mesh is added the bonding wire is attached to it I guess I'll play it safe. I'd hate to have one of my kid injured because I wanted to save 1000$ on the electrical work required (I'd still have to buy the breakers / pvc / wire / ...)

Thanks for all the replies. I did some more reading and it's getting really confusing. I think that I'll have the work done by an electrician, he seems good and definitely does a good job (recommended by pool builder). it will cost me more in the end but man, the electrical of an underground pool is much more complicated than a basement.. especially in my case with the fence / lights / diving board and all that has to be bonded as well as conduit needed for the wiring and all... plus the inspections and headaches that come with it when you don't know all the fine details of the code. I think that I'll just pay the electrician to do it and avoid the hassle. I can't really afford to spend 3 days fixing electrical and waiting for the inspector while the pool builder is waiting to pour concrete over the bonding wire.

My pool builder is asking an extra 250$ if I want a dual speed pump instead of the single speed. At first I thought that it was a good idea to spend that extra money but now I'm not so sure: Pump runs 8h / day, for 5 months (since I'll have a heater). That means 1200h of operation per year. The pump is a 1hp hayward superpump that will operate on 240V. Consumption = 0.75kw... 1200h * 0.75kw = 900kW total.. a ~7c / kwh, that's roughly 63$ of electricity per year. If electricity shoots up to 10c / kwh (fixed rate is 7.5 for 5 years), it's still only 90$ of electricity. These prices are for Ontario, Canada. If the pump is dual speed, I'll save ~60% of electricity if it operates on low speed... a savings of 50$ or so per year in the best case but the pump will still have to be ran on high speed a few hours per day I think (for proper chlorination). Am I missing something?