ps558

Yeah you do not want a two hp pump. Here is a link for a 1/15 hp at the bottom of page http://www.poolandspa.com/catalog/product004138000536.cfm

The one you need are all pretty much the same. The motor is smaller than a jet pump motor. here is a pic of offset discharge. http://www.amerimerc.com/spa-pump~spa-flo.htm Some cal spa pumps the discharge comes out the side not the top. Most pumps are sold with it facing up. This is a easy problem to solve. There are 4 bolt heads the hold the wet end on. Loosen all four and turn the wet end to direction you need and retighten. It fall off the motor because the impeller is still threaded to the shaft

If the jets have the thin plastic backing that looks like cone. A Pair needle nose pliers between the jet body and and the piece keep working at they come out or can twist enough plastic to break them or get them to release

Is this the pump you are looking for http://www.lwico.net/cart/products/Circ_Ma...1_sp-203-1.html I had to replace one these pumps for a customer and found it was easier to replace the entire pump. You have to take note if the pipe going to the heater is in the middle or offset. If you can give me the HP rating I might be able to find a AO Smith motor these are not standard motors to find Is there any Ao Smith motor shops near you or retailers No, that isnt the pump that we have. I called emotorstore.com and found out a little more info about the motor. it is a 1/4 hp with a 56Y frame. She said that GE no longer makes that motor and there wasnt a replacement listed and she wasnt able to find an AO replacement either. It is starting to look like i will just have to replace the whole pump I can't find a replacement either in Ao Smith's catalog. Since the motor is hard to find it might come out the same price and a complete pump. Did you try to contact Cal Spa for a part number and a dealer

I prefer Raypack heaters

Yes, but they are brand new......less than 30 days old. After it still leaked, I pulled the whole assy. apart to inspect them and to insure that all were properly seated in the manifold, which they were/are? I'm stumped and my only hope is that the low rpm/gpm with the new variable speed pump will stop it. I just thought someone had some "out of the box" experience with something like this. It just defies logic, but yet it is happening. I suspected the fit between the manifold and the filter element "spouts" but both are hayward and the supplier confirmed they were correct? There could be de powder still in the lines. Backwash the filter. Have someone add DE while someone looks at the returns to see if any comes out. It will be cloudy. Is the air relief on top of the manifold still there with a sleeve over it? Most manifolds crack at the seem were they are put together

Is this the pump you are looking for http://www.lwico.net/cart/products/Circ_Ma...1_sp-203-1.html I had to replace one these pumps for a customer and found it was easier to replace the entire pump. You have to take note if the pipe going to the heater is in the middle or offset. If you can give me the HP rating I might be able to find a AO Smith motor these are not standard motors to find Is there any Ao Smith motor shops near you or retailers

Poor water chemistry is a common cause. It reduces or pulls out the plastisizer in the liner which include color loss and can make the liner brittle. The only other cause would be if the liner was made wrong

You will need to change the breaker first. You can't run a 50 amp product on a 50 amp breaker it will trip because of the heat from the equal rating from the breaker and spa. You would need a 60 amp breaker. Breakers are used with at least a 10 % difference between them and the product that is connected to them. Another way is this when a electrical device is turned on like a jet pump the amps jump way up and then level off once the motor starts. So with a 50 amp breaker and spa set at 50 amps with it heating and you turn the pump on high speed the amps jump up and the breaker trips You are correct PS558, however configuration diagrams such as these are typically for the supply required, and include the allowance you speak of (BTW I think it's 25%, not 10%, but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on this). For example a tub requiring a 60A GFI will only actually draw 48A constant with both pumps on high plus the heater. I bet your right in 25% I was trying to do it from memory instead of looking it up. your rating is correct

You will need to change the breaker first. You can't run a 50 amp product on a 50 amp breaker it will trip because of the heat from the equal rating from the breaker and spa. You would need a 60 amp breaker. Breakers are used with at least a 10 % difference between them and the product that is connected to them. Another way is this when a electrical device is turned on like a jet pump the amps jump way up and then level off once the motor starts. So with a 50 amp breaker and spa set at 50 amps with it heating and you turn the pump on high speed the amps jump up and the breaker trips

Marquis Spas have been around a long time and are well built products. I believe they have the best to offer for a smaller spa. friend of mine has one and really likes it. Sorry don't know much about LA Spas only ever saw 1 of them

For a good reliable fast priming and low cost pump my opinion is you can't beat the Super Pump from Hayward

Most spa packs will turn the pump off when temp is read by the temp sensor. If the pressure switch does not open it will give a error code. It should not continue to heat, even if it does the hi limit sensor will shut the spa down

If it has electronics it is going to be more than 10 bucks. If it has air buttons that operate a sequencing switch or a relay just the part can be replaced. Does your spa have pc board?

In re-reading a bunch of my old e-mail with the factory it would appear I replaced the switch once already. Go figure, I completely forgot about that. Yes, I'd shut off the tub and close the gate valves to allow replacing it without draining. The pressure switch has a screw wheel in it that allows adjusting the pressure. I've no idea what it's set to presently. But I'm wondering if the pressure setting might not be correct. And whether adjusting the wheel might better suit the tub's demands. Do you have a rough idea which way the wheel is supposed to turn to adjust the pressure level? Do I want more or less? And if I'm going to confirm the switch is just plain bad, is it OK to jumper the switch out of the circuit entirely for "a while"? The next question being what period of time is OK to do that. I'm not looking to use the tub during this process. I've got the various jets set for wide-open delivery and I would not be changing them while testing this. Under what conditions does the pressure switch really do its job? I don't want to bypass it and have something burst as a result, obviously. I'd just like to make sure it's the pressure switch before I bother buying and have another one shipped to me. If you play with the knob you will get a flo error it is better to pull the wires off and jump them together for testing. the spa has a hi limit to trip if it gets to hot. It looks like it is set ok because the tub heats but get stuck sometimes

Sounds like a pressure switch to me also. Balboa mounts them on the heater tube. Look to left side of the box on the heater. Its round and has a switch mounted to with two wires. They are easy to replace. Turn spa off, pull the wires off and unscrew. You drain the spa if you want or close the slice valve to stop the water and replace it. Any 3 AMp or above pressure switch will do with 1/8 npt threads. I never dealt with online retailers but try spadepot.com or spaguts.com

1 hp medium head pump will work great. hayward Super Pump

From what I remember reading in trade mags that the state of CA was letting the manufactures test there own spas. Artic spas used to have a 3 rd party test results on the web but I can't find it now, But Artic Beachcomber were the top two in energy effcient

This means that the spa is in economy mode. It will only heat the water when it is in a filter cycle. If your control panel has a mode button you will be able to change it. There is two other modes Standard or Std which will keep the water at your set temp 24/7 Sleep or Slp is like a vaction mode it will filter but not heat until drops 20 degrees. if you do not have a mode button modes are changed by pressing a series of buttons. I don't have the paper with me to show you but if all else fails contact balboawatergroup.com

you need to inspect all fittings and glue joints at the pipes before the pump. Sounds like it is sucking air and loosing prime. Sometimes with the pump off you can hear a hissing noise. If the unions you can unthread fittings and retape them. If there is no unions and everything in glued try using a outdoor silicone at each joint one at a time until you find it. If you have any valves with handles and srcewed on tops air could be leaking at the oring were they come together. As for dirt going back to the pool. Either the standpipe in the filter is cracked or the sand if channeled and not filtering. But 1 problem at a time

Are you testing for voltage at the heater when the spa is calling for heat? If you are and there is not 240 volts across the the heater legs then you have a pc board problem. if you reading volts when the spa is calling for heat then you have a bad heater

A Solid flow message has nothing to do with water pressure or dirty filters. A solid FLO means that after the tub is done heating and the pump shuts off the pressure switch does not open. Making the controls giving the error. They can stick and malfunction. The fact that sometimes the spa works fine is nothing new to a pressure switch that operates some of the times. They are a cheap piece try replacing it. A bad pressure switch can make spa controls do some wierd stuff. The worst case is something failed on the pc board.

How do you know "With the cover on the heater never turns on" ? Do not fear this normal for most full foam spas. If the control system does not turn on the jet pumps to purge any lines to water will cool off in the plumbing. Remember heat likes to cool its surroundings. The water feels cold because it is lower than the tubs water temp were it is being read. It is no were near freezing and I never hard of any spa made freezing while it is operating normally. The Always on circ pump is for heating and filtering only. There are small lines that feed water to the jet pump wet ends but the little circ pump is not strong enough to push all the way to the jets. The reason way your artic spa does not do this is because they do not full foam the spas and the heat inside the cabinet keeps the water warmer.

If the motor nameplate says 220 it is 220. Unless you are trained in electronic repair I would mess with it. Another reason could that IC chip is bad also and fixing relays won't help. I would look into a new Balboa VS Series spa pack. It comes with a new heater and topside control and we already know you at least 1 single speed pump. If there is another pump and it has a red wire also that is a dual speed pump

If you plan on being being bad on water chemistry get one with a cupro nickel exchanger. The Hayward ones come standard with them. I prefer Raypack Heaters over all of them. They are simple, reliable, quiet heaters. I would also get one that could heat the pool if need be, just in case you need to. 250,000 BTU or above http://www.raypak.com/poolframe.htm The Sta rite is a good heater also but the way it is made it becomes a haven for bee nest and mice at least here in PA