BigJim_610

My spa pump 1 will not operate from the top side. The pump runs fine when wired to an outboard contactor. I get three blinking dots and a start up error code of 336. And the electric heat does not come on. The topside indicates a call for heat but there is no voltage present at the heater connections. I previously had all relays upgraded to higher capacity. And everything was working fine until my neutral came loose. I am hoping this is just a safety interlock I have overlooked. (Edit - I am dumping in hot water from an instant HW heater. This water is way hotter than my spa setpoint, could I be stuck in a high limit mode, even though the topside is calling for heat..) Safeties seem OK, all fuses are good, L1 and L2 are OK. Wires and connections seem tight. I may have caused this because the neutral wire at the terminal strip came loose very briefly. Thanks in advance

I came acrcross a good purchase, a Teledyne Telstar TGS-50 spa heater and have some questions. Yes I have searched the WWW. It is setup for nat gas, can I switch orfices to make it run on Propane? Do I need to switch out the gas valve? Are parts available? (no) How many BTUs is the rated output? What is the minimum flow required? If I cannot easily switch it to Propane I will sell it. Thanks all. BigJim

If the motor nameplate says 220 it is 220. Unless you are trained in electronic repair I would mess with it. Another reason could that IC chip is bad also and fixing relays won't help. I would look into a new Balboa VS Series spa pack. It comes with a new heater and topside control and we already know you at least 1 single speed pump. If there is another pump and it has a red wire also that is a dual speed pump I had my son email me a picture of the pump wires, they are black, RED, green and white. So I now believe this is a 220 VAC motor. And yes I do have LV and HV commercial experience. I like the Balboa setup but am unsure at this moment that it will fit into my plumbing. And for $600++ I can spend some time replacing relays to see if this is the issue. From searching today I have learned the Gecko product is sometimes prone to welded contacts... Now I need to see what is up with the heat. Like I wrote, I suspect welded contacts. Thanks, BigJim

I am unsure of what pump or blower is what, so anyway here goes. Facing the controller the motor to the left is stuck on. I suspect the relay is fried and plan to replace it. I am unsure what voltage the motor runs at. It has three wires, a black, white and green, 120 VAC?, the motor has a tag indicating it is 220. I plan to pull the plug at the controller and meter it. Prior to the burnt motor relay the heat ran away. We used the spa one night and the next day the spa was 118 as displayed. It was very hot. Do I have another problem here with another fried relay? The lousy owners manual indicates there are safeties that will not allow this to happen. This is why I believe I have another burnt contact. Obviously I will meter this output also. I plan to verify what voltage the motor on the left is and hot wire it. I will then see if the heat will come on, via the top level display. If it does not I then suspect the entire board is toast. Additionally the pilot duty on off switch on the side of the control panel no longer has any effect on anything. (fried motor and heat relay?) Is it worth my time to R&R the relays? Or should I assume the board is toast and attempt to order another one? I have searched and cannot locate any electric or plumbing skematic of this spa. The manufacturer has not returned my email request for service. Thanks in advance The model is as follows Hydro Quip Charisma PMHPTBC - 240DPEP 220 VAC Gecko Controller 9911-500132 Rev e