PoolGuyNJ

Your Alk level needs to come up some. I generally raise the alk level target 1/2 the CYA level. Scott

If you have a ball valve to control the drain, that would be my first look see. Loosen the nut some, exercise the valve a couple times and re-tighten in the open position. Other valves may need a rebuild or you have a cracked pipe/fitting. Scott

Bear in mind that water is heated somewhat differently than a house. 1 BTU will heat 1 pound of water 1 degree F per hour There are about 8.3 lbs per gallon. What this means to the consumer is that the larger heater will get the job done faster, using the same amount of gas. A 400K BTU output heater will inject about 320,000 BTUs/hour, assuming it is at about 83% efficient (typical) and less the loss to travel through the pipes and evaporative losses (this is variable with the outside temp). A 20K gallon pool weighs about 165,000 pounds. You would expect about a 2 degree rise per hour with a 400K unit. It all goes by BTUs. Gas companies usually use Therms as a measure. A Therm is 100,000 BTUs. HTH, Scott

If would be much faster to do an actual acid wash of the spa with a 4 to 1 water acid solution, refill, and then neutralize the acidic water in the spa and rinsing by emptying and refilling a couple times, then sanding it smooth. Scott

Nope. Wrong transmitter. Possible (fairly likely at that too) code version problems too. That would likely drive the costs up. Scott

Check it's wiring. Sometimes, a wire comes loose. Sometimes, things just wear out with age. Scott

25 PSI is significant. That is higher than most systems. Most run between 14 and 18 PSI when clean. It sounds like the expansion of the hoses and tank, when the pump turns off, suddenly return to normal size. Since water doesn't compress, this contraction forces water out the suction side. Something is likely to be causing a restriction. Likely places to look are the return eyeball turned sideways, a dirty filter, or a way too big pump. What equipment do you have? What was the Kadet cleaning out of the pool? Scott

I would expect a better result if the plaster could handle it and was already rough in spots. Low pH water is the #1 cause of the heater. Guess what else low pH water does? It likes calcium. Scott

Sounds like it got calcified or was inserted too tightly to begin with. If this is the case, take a hacksaw blade and cut 3 score lines, 1/2" apart in wall with the threads, taking care not to cut the threads, just the wall. Take a flathead screw driver and give it a hard tap on the rim near the middle score. This usually allows the fitting to lose tension in the pipe and then be turned to remove. Scott

What kind of shape is the actual plaster in? If its still thick, since it's only the spa, I might suggest shocking the pool high enough to be enough to last 3 days with no filter on, present/near future weather being considered. Then bypass the heater and do an acid bath and sanding with fine and extra fine wet/dry sandpaper. The above does not constitute a complete "how to". Scott

Yes, acid can have an effect on the shell if the plaster is thin. Live with the 6 months of stain. Don't through good money at it. Scott

Keeping the blanket on when not swimming or performing maintenance is best unless the water temp has exceeded your comfort zone.. Sun or not. Pump on or off. Scott

Diving and 6' depths are mutually exclusive. Kids will dive. Get the 8' depth. Scott

Did the G2 come with a spring loaded valve that limits how much suction goes to sweep and allows the skimmer to get the balance of the suction? Adding some bleach will not effect either the CH or CYA level. Day time is the preferred method. The sun will energize the FC, causing it to gas off far more quickly than during the night. This is a substantial part of a pool's chlorine demand. Running during the day allows it to be replenished so it can sanitize or oxidize as the need arises. Scott

If faking the air switch allows it to fire, it's either the air switch is looking for a higher vac than the fan is providing or is out of calibration. It isn't the ICM. Scott

Tiny bubbles indicate a very small air leak on the suction normally. Did you use a thread sealant such as Teflon tape or paste? Are the pump's drain plugs nice and snug? As for the oscillation, did you verify your line voltage and the motor's voltage setting? It should be a steady whirring, not oscillating its speed. Scott

What was missing was that with your original idea is you couldn't vacuum or have much in the way of a skimming action with a 1/10th HP pump. Scott

Maybe effluence is an appropriate word. I have heard people say in the past,"What is this cr#p?" Scott

My preferred order of manufacturers for equipment pad gear for most pools: #1 Pentair #2 Jandy/Zodiac #3 Hayward #4 Waterway For heaters: #1 Ray-Pac/Rheem #2 Pentair Bear in mind, each of the big 4 has their own strengths and weaknesses. Everyone has different needs and budgets. We know nothing of what your wants are in a pool, such as size, shape, features, etc... Scott

When diluting, I NEVER go more than 50% at a time for any pool. Depending on the liner's age and the prevailing temps, going as low as the local store (has he seen your pool?) suggests is an iffy proposition. Scott

I think you meant effervescence. While your numbers look OK, I would target a slightly lower pH of 7.4/7.5 and bump the alk up another 10 ppm. If you use borates, this may be harder to do. Some grouts bleed more than others. Normally, this stops after a couple years and keeping your CSI slightly on the negative side. Scott

This sounds like your going to need to pull the shell out entirely, make the repairs to the shell and gel coat, and properly reset the shell on a screed layer of small gravel. If there is a concrete apron around the shell, it is toast too. High water didn't do this. An improperly laid bed and low water in the pool did. While I don't sell pools (I fix them), those shell installers I know all use trucked water and either washed in mason sand or small gravel for back filling during the addition of water, never letting either the backfill or water level difference be more than a foot so there won't be any bowing in or out. Scott

Most dealers I know/see on the road use a regular flat bed trailer and either a crane or large back hoe for lifting and carrying the shell. The shells usually have heavy rope loops or chains embedded to connect rigging to just below the coping edge. Some require lifting straps to cradle the shell. Shells that require tipping on their side for a narrower profile during transportation will require additional bracing to prevent structural stresses. This creates some serious concerns though as a lifting and setting down on the trailer in an other than normally oriented position will stress the shell at some point during the process. Scott

Lose the trees. Problem solved. Just my opinion. I used to beef about the same thing. Then my wife had 11 trees taken out while I was at work one day. Oh, I still have trees but the problematic ones are gone. Scott

There is a terminal strip of screws on the board. A single pair connection using 22 AWG wire (a single pair from a tan phone quad wire usually) will run to the heater's control terminals. Scott