ChaiSTi

Did the math and your right about the heater... it's the same to heat up to a certain set point... just A LOT faster... the saving I was thinking about would come from the operation of 230V vs 115V pumps... 230V are usual more energy efficient... unless the spa is using a little circulation pump for heating, I think 230V spas are over all cheaper to heat

Maybe I'm wrong, but I think it's cheaper (electricity wise) to heat with 240V vs 120V. The spa would heat 4x faster per hour. Ofcourse, it'll cost more initial to wire up 240V.

4 kW heaters used in 110V system will reduce the wattage about 75% which would make it 1 kW. Unless Maquis is using a special heater, I think you should base your math around 1 kW versus the 1.5 kW that they may claim.

^agree Manufacturers are trying to support their dealers as much as possible. This helps keep both of them in business.

Check out the flow/pressure switch, as well. A lack of water flow should disable the heater from coming on.

I estimate that your spa should pull about 12A when it's heating. Do you have a amp clamp to check this? Also, are you sure you have a 1.5 kW heater? 120V spas are usually equipped with 1 kW heaters.

Check the voltage across the heater terminals. If the voltage is present, then you likely have a bad heater. Depending on the kW rating of the heater, it should be like 10-16 ohms. If you don't have any voltage, then either your heater relays are bad or something else is disabling your heater. Economy maybe?

Are you able to activate the low speed when it's not running? If not, maybe there's a problem with that jet button.

I'm not familiar with the HS controllers but is this a 110V or 220V pump? If 220V, have you verified that you still have 220V coming into the spa? Does the icon on the keypad indicate that the pump is selected? The lack of voltage while the pump is connected kinda points to a bad relay. The reason you have voltage when the pump is not connected is probably due the the snub capacitor next to the relay. Edit: Any error codes? On some spa controllers an error code will disable the spa completely.

That appears to be a seal leak. Find out who's the pump manufacturer and order a seal kit. You may need a new impellor too. Replacing a seal is fairly straight forward. Remove the volute cover and unthread the impellor from the shaft. You can hold the shaft still with a large screwdriver inserted at the back of the motor or clamp the shaft between the motor and wet end.

Thanks for the tips, wuice. I'll look into the problem and report back when I find the culprit.

also, are there any other possibilities that you can think of that may allow electrical changes to be in the water w/o tripping the GFCI? The only thing that I can think of that has direct contact with the water is the heater and the pump's wet end. But if these two are properly grounded, shouldn't that trip the GFCI?

Hello, I have a question for all the techs and electrical gurus in here. If I'm getting shocked here and there when I touch the water, what issues could I be facing with? Shouldn't the GFCI tripped to prevent this? Could the GFCI be bad? TIA.

Check the relays to see if they are supplying voltage to the low or high speed when not called for. You could have a stuck relay.

yeah, an old thread that was brought back from the dead is also missing.

^Polypropylene

You might want to check the voltage. See if the pump is actually getting ~230Vac.

What is your spa equipped with? 1 pump, 2 pump, air blower, circ. pump, ozone? The pack that you're replacing the old one with should have options to control all of your components unless you don't care about some of them.

Haha... That's great! Glad I was of some help to you.

Oh... one more thing... if the hi-limit is tripping, then there will be a lit red LED on the pc board. Look for this light to see if you need to diagnose a hi-limit or flow error.

Not sure what the 336 code could represent (maybe clock?) but the three blinking dots is related to either a pressure/flow switch or hi-limit sensor. So either you have conditions for these sensors to trigger or there's a problem with the sensors themselves.

Some people had no issues with the bags and some did. Take a look at the thread. Maybe you'll find what you need. http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.ph...&hl=la+spas

My guess is that it's design to be a bypass should the filter media becomes too clogged up. I don't think most spas filter 100% through the cartridge anyways. Most are tied together with a suction in the foot well.

I don't think CyberSpa will have to worry about the voltage. Belguim's power is 230V/50Hz. You might want to consider the size of the heater though as that can affect how fast it can heat/maintain temperature.

Looks like you can get that board repaired... not sure how much these kind of repairs run though. http://www.qie.com/abcsearch.php?inum=74828 http://www.spacare.com/spaandhottubrepair.aspx http://circuitboardfix.com/1824-25501_Balboa.html