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ChaiSTi

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Everything posted by ChaiSTi

  1. You might be out of luck. Maddox equipments are hard to come by since they went out of business some time ago.
  2. Your spa cover is probably not in the best condition so rain or ice water probably dripped in that way. Remove the panels to the equipment bay and check for any sign of water lose. No signs? All you can do then is fill it up and see what happens. Maybe fill it up to the level of the standing water and leave it there for a few hours. Then check it later to see if the water level has dropped any. If not, continue to fill it up and cross your fingers.
  3. Did you ever get this resolved. The rHnF is a flow code that shuts off the heater and eventually everything else. Are you able to activate any of the other pumps while this code is flashing? If the circulation pump doesn't feel like it's working, then most likely it's not. Can you see or feel if the shaft of the circ. pump is spinning? If this is a Laing E14 circ. pump, then you can only feel the motor for vibration. If you do have a Laing circ. pump, then my guess is that the pump is faulty. From my experience, they are notorious for failing. Check the fuses for continuity. I believe you have an in.xm control system so it should be a 20A that protects the CP port. If pump 1 does your cycling, then there will be 25A or 30A fuses for P1, P2, and P3.
  4. You might want to double check that white fuse. That white fuse can't be visually inspected for good or bad. You have to either test for voltage on booth side or pull it out and test it for continuity.
  5. That's odd. I'm assuming the blown fuse was the 25 or 30A slow blow which protects your pump. You should have gotten a flow code instead like FLC, FLO, or LF. I'm not familiar with the VS612 but other VS packs I've seen had the fuses on the PCB. There are usually 1 or 2 large Amp fuses and some low Amp fuses for the transformer and light.
  6. Is your circ. pump a low HP & Amp pump or a two speed pump that circulates water on low speed? The former usually operates 24/7 and the latter shuts off after temp. has been reached. The logic in your control system appears to be set up for the latter. Double check the jumpers on the board to make sure they are set properly. I have also ran across some bad/loose jumpers which can affect the board logic.
  7. You'll get the SN error code if there is a difference of two or more degrees between the sensors. Are there DIP switches on your board? If so, move number 1 into the ON position. This will put the spa in test mode and give you a reading of both sensors. You'll see something like A = and B =. Now swap the sensors around by unplugging them and switching the connector around. If A was reading higher before the swap, then B should now read higher. If so, switch out both sensors. If A continues to read higher after the swap, then you probably need a new circuit board.
  8. Maybe you have pop up speakers? Edit Sorry, misunderstood your issue. Have you tried the fader and balance feature? My guess is that your other three speakers may be bad. Depending on the type of speakers you have and how it was wired, it may be easy enough to take your good speaker and plug it into the other three areas to see if there is any difference.
  9. Not sure what brand of control system Atera uses but switching out the topside usually means that you have to switch out the lower control system, as well.
  10. The NA in.xe control system is usually equipped with a 110V vs. the 220V transformer that's found in the CE version. There's also the difference in frequency, 60Hz vs. 50Hz. Even if you're somehow able to install your transformer into the NA pack and power it, you may run into another issue with the the voltage input. If you are on dual phase, then I'm not sure how that's going to work. Edit: Here is a breakdown for the model and option codes 5 - 5 Outputs 12 - Pump 2 can be dual speed H4.0 - Heater 4kW 1 - Orange Key for pump 1 2 - Purple Key for pump 2 K - Blank Key (can be either circ. pump or blower) O - Ozone D - Direct input (constant voltage source - usually used for stereo) 32K - Software CE - Complies to European Market NOTE: Just because the control system has these options does not mean that you can utilize them all. The spa manufacturer usually has proprietary software that they load into the control system so that it acts the way they need it to.
  11. Well, if the heater is indeed faulty, then you might luck out with one for less online. There's a very popular auction site that has a used one going for dirt cheap, right now.
  12. Joe Blow, are you sure you have a bad sensor? Did you check the heater for any build up? Is your circulation pump working? You can get this code if there is insufficient water flow through the heater.
  13. You're at the right place. What's going on with your spa?
  14. Leaking gate valves usually require re-plumbing of new fittings. If the gate valve is connected to any rigid PVC, i.e. unions, elbows, then all that would have to replaced too.
  15. This is how it should look w/load: Low speed W-B: 220V W-R: 0V High Speed W-B: 0V W-R: 220V you shouldn't have any voltage between neutral & ground. you're either missed wired these pumps, have bad pump cords, or your circuit board is no good.
  16. Bluebutterfly... If you're going with the LA Spas, make sure that the spa is 110V. LA Spas does make the Mountain Series in 220V option. If the pump in the spa is rated for 220V only, then it's not convertible. The pump would have to be swapped out.
  17. I've played with the Gecko app. It's currently compatible with only their Aeware in.xm2 control pack. There's a module that connects to the pack that transmits a Wi-Fi signal to your phone. It allows you to control the accessories, temperature, and filtration time. The biggest benefit is that you don't have to go out to your spa to see if it's hot enough or if there is a problem with the control system (sends error codes too).
  18. I agree. With a plumber in the family, it would be worth a shot to DIY.
  19. I'm afraid your heater relays may be shot... you'll likely need a new board... have any skills with a soldering iron?
  20. I wonder if the new Hot Springs controller still have any special settings or if they completely removed it.
  21. That's interesting. I have some experience with Gecko controllers but never came across this feature before. Can you tell what model control pack you have? Is it one of their generic packs or is it specially programed for a spa manufacturer? Thanks.
  22. I'm looking for a control system that will allow the user to set the temperature up to 41*C (106*F) There is a section in the UL 1563 that states: 35 Temperature-Regulating Controls 35.1 General 35.1.1 A unit provided with an integral heater or provision for a heater shall also be provided with an adjustable water temperature-regulating control. 35.2 User controls – standard settings 35.2.1 The water temperature-regulating control shall have marked temperature settings with no marked water-temperature settings higher than 40°C (104°F). 35.2.2 A unit shall not permit settings that correspond to operating temperature values higher than 40°C (104°F). Exception: Units that comply with the special temperature settings requirements in 35.3.1 – 35.3.4. 35.2.3 Water temperature-regulating controls shall be factory adjusted to a temperature setting corresponding to an operating temperature value of no more than 38°C (100°F). 35.3 User controls – special temperature settings 35.3.1 In accordance with the Exception to 35.2.2 units are not prohibited from having special temperature settings to allow higher operating temperature values for thermal loss compensation. 35.3.2 The maximum special temperature setting shall correspond to an operating temperature value of no more than 41°C (106°F) and shall only be obtained through a special user input. The user actuation mechanism shall be such that it is highly unlikely these settings could be accidentally accessed. 35.3.3 The operating temperature value of the water temperature-regulating control shall reset to 40°C (104°F) if the user reduces the setting to one corresponding to 40°C or less. 35.3.4 There shall be a visible indication when a unit’s special temperature setting feature has been activated. This was published in 2009. Can someone recommend me a controller that will be in compliance with 35.3?
  23. ^ That's pretty cool. Is that the in.touch accessory for the Aeware control pack?
  24. It's best to isolate the leak and repair/replace whatever fitting that is leaking. But if are trying to avoid doing that, at this time, then maybe a product like Fix-A-Leak may work for you. Since you know that it leaks only when Jets 1 comes on, you can just try running the product through Jets 1 plumbing. Jets 1 draws all of its water through the filters. Make sure to remove the filters when adding a product like Fix-A-Leak.
  25. Inadequate water flow through the heater or you may have an issue with the pressure switch. Try ohming out the switch with the pump running. You should get a reading. If you don't, then the switch is not activating. You'll either need to adjust or replace the switch. If the switch does open and close with water flowing through the heater, then I would check the wires that connects to the switch.
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