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THE MAIN CAUSE OF pH RISE IN A POOL OR SPA IS OUTGASSING OF CO2. THE HIGHER THE TA (CARBONATION IN THE WATER), THE FASTER CO2 WILL OUTGAS AND THE FASTER THE pH WILL RISE. THE HIGHER THE AERATION OF THE WATER (OZONE SYSTEMS, SALT WATER SANITIZER SYSTEMS, AIR INJECTORS, AERATION FROM YOUR JETS, 24 HOUR CIRCULATION ON HIGH SPEED, ETC.) THE FASTER CO2 WILL OUTGAS AND THE FASTER THE pH WILL RISE. THE LOWER YOU PLACE THE pH THE FASTER IT WILL RISE (YOU ARE CONVERTING MORE BICARBONATE IONS, WHICH IS WHAT WE MEASURE AS TA, INTO CARBONIC ACID, ESSENTIALLY CO2 DISSOLVED IN THE WATER.

Update: I have a nifty excel sheet I’ve been tracking bromine levels and decay. So far it’s looking like about a 4-5ppm per day decay/loss of bromine with no use and around 6-8 ppm drop with a tub use on that day. This is with a CD ozonator and no floater. I currently use the tub every other day so what I’m trying to determine now is what level I need to pump up the bromine to after use so that it’s at 5-6ppm during my use days. If I’m doing my math right I need the levels AFTER use to be 11ppm. Then it should be right at 5-6ppm when I get in the day after the skip day. According to the pool calculator 1.5 tsp of my 82% dichlor/15% bromide mixture for my tub size after use should do it. I may add 2tsp though to be safe after every use. For you cheapos like me this is only $.20 cents of chemicals per use or about $2.50 a month. That’s pretty cheap chemical wise vs bromine tablets if you ask me. In reality it will be cheaper than that because I’m planning to switch to Bleach as soon as CYA levels are in range

Low flow. Remove the filter. If it doesn't clear up remove the circulation pump and check for debris in the impeller. If that looks ok you need a circ pump.