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Thank you for the great trouble shooting guidance. I will do that over the weekend. The circ pump seems to be working and I suspect it is the flow switch but will see how it turns out... Thanks!

Ensure the circ or heating/filtering related pump is running and has good flow. Check the flow switch housing and ensure that the toggle is pushed up against the post and making contact. Sometimes holding a flashlight behind the housing will make it easier to see. If it is making contact with the post but you have the flo error still then try and jumper the 2 flow switch wires together and bypass the switch. I recommend disconnecting the heater to do this test so if there is a flow related issue the heater does not engage and quickly overheat/melt down. The flow switch protects the heater from firing when there is not enough flow. If you jump the wires and the flo goes away replace flow switch.

Partial progress... replaced the terminal block, snubber and the burned wires today and fired it up. The display turned on, both pumps work... Thank you CanadianSpaTech for your help to get me running again! Now, the partial part - I have a FL1 error on the display and the heater does not turn on. All I had time to do was clean the filter, which did not help... will do some more trouble shooting and will try to purge air over the weekend. I only know FL1 is switch stuck open or dirty filter/air pocket so need to research a little more.

ODD... Heat light on and you get 240V to the copper tabs then it should be heating or the GFCI should be tripping. Try Test button on the GFCI and make sure it is working correctly.. Did you ohm test the element?

Most common trip cause is the heater element. Disconnect the heater from the board and see if it holds. If it still trips disconnect each component one at a time until it holds (pumps, Ozone). Post pics of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see what you have and how it is wired

The good news - the buss fuses measured ok. the Bad news - now the 50 Amp GFI trips whenever I try to turn on the power. Something must be shorting out. I think I’m in for a long ride. any and all ideas welcome.

I’ve been having a guy named, Phil, at Easy Spa Parts in Oceanside,Ca send me spa covers for about the past 10 years and I’ve been very happy as they’ve been as good as the OEM covers. think they have a web site easyspaparts.com .

My Balboa VS501Z is not heating the water. The pump is working just fine and the filter is clean. The heater is 5.5Kw 800 15in 2x2 M7 Stud. I've tested all the locations mentioned in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJaHPz75qJU and https://www.balboawatergroup.com/getdoc.cfm?id=1808. And I've got 240v across the black and the red L1 and L2. I've got 243v across the two copper leads going into the heater. All of this is when the heat light is on. I've tested all three fuses and they all have connectivity. How to figure out if it's the circuit board or the heater that has failed? My guess would the heater but that's just speculation. Hopefully this post works since I've repeatedly failed the "prove you're not a bot" questions on sign-up. The sign-up disagree on what day follows Tuesday, how many hours there are in a day, and what the third letter of 'letter' is. Please mods, be kind. -Darren

I figured out the issue!! The red wire from the flow sensor had gotten slightly pulled out of the sensor bar on the control panel. After resetting it to where it is making contact with the pin, the tub is now heating and throwing only the cool code (water temp is 56°). Thank you for the help.

Pictures of the filter area would be helpful.

The Cover Guy is one that gets mentioned here a lot.

I’ll try the Buss fuses today. Pump/heater does not run at all. i believe the incoming power is ok, but given the power surge, that is certainly worth checking.

Test the 2 green buss fuses that say SC25 or SC 30 on them. Does the heating/filtering related pump run in low or the circ pump if it has one? Test the incoming power and make sure you have 240V red to black and did not lose a leg in the gfci when it took the hit.

Did you install the new flow switch in the right direction? When the circ is running the toggle in the flow switch should get pushed up against the post making a connection. Verify that it is making the connection. if it is making the connection but you still have a flo error you could try to jumper the flow switch but you will need to verify that the circ is flowing water.. or disconnect the heater from the board for testing so if the heater engages and there is a flow issue it won't go nuclear (only takes a split second to get really hot). I recommend disconnecting the heater for testing. Is the new circ the same voltage as the original? (120V or 240V) Next I would be looking at and testing the sensors. See page 55 below for resistance chart You might find help here: http://jacuzzipartners.com/knowledgelibrary/assets/pdf/681.pdf

I have a 2002 Sundance Altamar that I got from a customer of mine. I replaced the circulation pump before I even turned on the tub. I start the tub for the first time and I am getting a FLO code. Here is what I have done, I’ve made sure to the best of my knowledge bled all the air from the system, I have removed the main filter, and I have replaced the flow sensor. Nothing has been able to remove the FLO code. It is flashing the FLO code between the water, temp, and cool signs. The other two pumps and the circulation pump work like they are supposed to and seem to run fine. I am asking on here before I decide to call a service tech.

We had a power surge last night and when I went to use my hot tub (about a 2007 Coleman (Maax) 461 with Balboa electronics, it read “STU” (motor stuck?). As usual, first troubleshooting step - power off and power on. That replaced the message with “HOT” (something overheated?). Everything was nice and cool, so I powered it off, moved A1 up to test mode, powered it on and got “OHH” (Overheat?) , which is where it now sits. Kind of strange as it happened in the middle of the night with the tub in standby on a 40° F night. I just started researching it, but figured I’d reach out and see if anybody has the “magic bullet” (not the food processor). I took a pic of the Balboa circuit board if that helps. Thanks, in advance, to anybody that can get me a couple more nice nights in the tub, before the brutal Texas summer rolls in. All thoughts and opinions welcome! Thanks!

Hello, I have a Coleman Saluspa. Pump is always on to keep the water warm. But the pump is making a humming noise, particularly strong if you are far away (50ft) due to the low frequency noise. The spa is on a concrete, in a corner consisting of a wall and a wood fence. The pump is on a thick rubber mat to absorb vibrations. But the pump still makes a loud humming noise that propagates to the neighbor's houses. Any suggestion to isolate the noise? Could I build some kind of a box using plywood + foam and put the pump inside it?

Hello, We inherited a spa with a new house and it works but doesn't have a filter. The manufacturer on the tag is Sunset Spas and they appear to be out of business. Were they ever doing business under another name that I could search for the filter type with? They don't come up in any searches that I can do for filters by manufacturer. Thanks for any help!!

I took am having problems replacing the valve collar on the water feature in my Hot spring Grandee hot tub. I bought a new part, but cannot work out how to replace it on the 'tap' piece.

Pump bearings and seals wear out and are normal replacement parts. Pumps are either full rated or uprated. Up rating is a marketing ploy using a sneakly little number called the service factor to make it seem your pump is more powerful than it is. (HP rating x service factor = brake HP) Since you didn't give us the model number of your Hayward pump I don't know which yours is. However an uprated 1.5 HP pump will have the same brake HP as a 1 HP full rated model (Full rated pumps use a service factor of 1..and a full rated 1.5 HP pump is the same as a 2 HP uprated model. As to whether you need more HP for your solar heating, is it working properly now or have you had an appreciable pressure drop when you installed it? You might want to look into a variable speed pump and increase your brake HP a bit so you have some reserve in case you need it when the solar is on and run at a lower speed if you are bypassing it. This will save you quite a bit on electrical power in the long run and you will also get better filtration running at a lower speed.

Sides and floor are 1 1/2” cedar. Just want some bubbling in water to mix hot and cold water up plus bubbles makes it look nicer lol.I put about 30-34 inches of water and it takes aprox 6 hrs to raise temp from 6 to 38 degrees . Ps: grandson trying it out to see if it fits him. Lol

What happened with this pool? I am thinking of getting a bio design pool in Georgia

Hi, I had to replace the main board. After consulting with a local technician we came to conclusion this was due to the thunderstorm I few nights before. Quite normal defect after current spikes in the grid. good luck

@ydragos Please start your own post and describe your issue and post pics of the circuit board and schematic on inside cover