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Incidentally is there any new water conditioning treatments available , I have sensitive skin and an allergic to Bromine?

Great job !

Suggest you swap it out for a Balboa system the next issue you have. Good luck going forward.

An update, as no one has had a chance to reply. It was the water level sensors holding off everything, cleaned them with some wire wool, tightened the connections on the sensor which appears to be nothing more than a bolt, I the control board needs a clean with some contact spray and a cotton bud, but tub is working fine for now.

You can try and get the handle to pull the slice portion of the gate into the up position but I would say it might leak at the handle and it might drop back down at anytime. If you could get at it I might try and punch out the slice portion but you can't access it. You could replumb it all without the carbon rods portion (no longer needed) and just use pvc or flex and since you will not need to change the carbon rods you don't need the gate valve. Cut flex line at the left side of the filter housing leaving 1 3/4" of flex. Leave the 1 3/4" so you can slide a 2" coupler over it. Then attach a 2" Ell 90 (sxspg) page 57 (see attached parts cat.) up into the coupler. Then a 3" piece of flex into the ell 90. Join that to a 2x2x2 Tee (sxsxs page 60), Out of the top of the Tee add a Ell 90 (sxspg page 57). add 3" of flex into the 90. onto that add a Tee Reducing 2"x2" x 3/4 (sxsxs page 60) and again add 3" flex and another reducing Tee 2x2x 3/4 with a 2" end plug or end cap (page 61). You could change the 2x2x3/4 to 2x2x1" and add (#12 page 62) and have a 1" to 3/4" barbed fitting coming out of the tee From the 3/4" tops of the 2 tees then add 3/4 flex and run one to each location. On the right of the filter housing has the tee with the 90, Cut off the old 3/4 and attach the new 3/4 flex from the first tee. The second one going up cut and add the 3/4 flex using (page 62 #5 3/4" to 3/4" smooth barb) glue and clamp. Then you will need another 2" coupler and a section of 2" flex to reattach the main line coming from the pump into the new tee. I might cut the main line close to the first Tee and use it for alignment then at the end cut it back further to allow some flexibility getting the new piece in. I use a vibrating cutting tool to cut the flex lines close to rigid plumbing where needed. I use Weld On 725 pvc cement (page 67) Cannot stress enough that you think through, have a plan and dry fit as much as possible. Questions? https://elmsalesandequipment.com/product-catalogue.htm

So the bottom right of the board is the high limit. This board uses a "tape style" hi limit sensor. I see it has been removed. Did someone change this... before or after you were having issues? is there a red led lit on the board bottom right side of the board?

Yeah, it is easy once you get the hang of it.

Hello, I have a Jacuzzi J280 that I cannot control, but everything still seems to work. The buttons on the top control panel don't control anything correctly, besides the menu button cycles through the menus. The + and - buttons will BOTH INCREASE the temperature but only to 101, and both of the pump1 and pump2 buttons will BOTH DECREASE the temperature to 100 degrees but no further. I cannot turn on the jets or the lights, or change the temperature to anything besides 101 or 100 degrees or change any of the settings in the other menus. However the circulation jets still cycle as normal, and on seemingly random rare occasion the jet pumps will turn on for a short time, and the water heater is still keeping the water hot. So I know at least that things are functioning, I just cannot control them. I assumed the obvious issue was the top side control panel, so I ordered a new one and replaced it but that did NOT fix the issue. Still the exact same behavior. So now I'm wondering if the motherboard is the issue, possibly a short or loose connection or something else. Before I throw another $400-500 blindly replacing parts with a new motherboard, I thought I'd check to see if anyone had any insight on this issue. Possible ways to trouble shoot or others that have fixed the same issue? Below is a link to a video demonstrating my issue. This was right after flipping the power breaker back on so the #1 Jets were on. https://photos.app.goo.gl/9bJ6iNRU8k5ckL7p8 (yes the water level is low and the display says change water because the spa has been sitting unused for 4+ months as I try to prioritize fixing it. The water level was normal when this issue started) Thanks

Thank you for the reply, so not really much else to watch out for besides normal balancing? It just seems to be too easy now, I fiqure somethings bound to happen.

Also note that error code "32" was cleared by tech after "resting the high limit," the day he replaced the temp probe. But it only came back to temp for 24hrs. Hope these pictures are good enough. I'm not onsite at the moment. A

Hi, We just tried using our heater and noticed it not kicking on. It's a Raypak P-R407A-EN-C. When I turn it on, I hear a louder click which I guess it he guess valve and then I hear a sparking sound which I believe is it trying to light. I usually smell gas after turning it on. Heater display shows SPK the whole time. I'm not sure where to look to see the pilot light and if it's lit. I'm also unsure what panel to remove to investigate the ignitor as it sounds likes that could have rust or some build up on it. A few days ago when I was messing with it, the blower kicked on a couple times and then would shut off after 2-3 seconds. Thoughts?

Did you ever find a replacement for these? My twilight just started losing some and was just gonna buy a bulk pack of o rings.

Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover. Is there a red led lit on the circuit board?

Wire size #6 3 wire (you don't use the white N) 2 pumps and a circ would be a 50 or 60 amp. With the circuit board set for a 50 amp when you use both pumps on high and the circ pump running the heater might cut out. Circ plus 1 pump on high speed the heater will work. Once you turn on second pump heater cuts out. Circuit board set for 60 amp you can run everything at once. Should be a schematic on inside cover that shows how/where in the board to change the power requirements.

@CanadianSpaTech appreciate you replying. I've attached some more photos trying to show a little more of the plumbing. See if this makes any sense to you or triggers more questions? As you can see, this connects back to the main line before the filter, as well as continues up (maybe to the jets that are not working?)... Sounds like you are describing a procedure to permanently close that gate? Is there a way I can permanently open it? I wish there was a plumbing diagram that showed where all the lines went! Thanks for your input and help.

Colored fiberglass pools fade. Period. End of story. This is why I have white fiberglass and recommend the same. It will look blue when filled with water.

Hi, I have this same issue on a GL2000 M3 board, immediately displays OHH on boot, then after 5min everything turns on full, pumps jets and blower! Had some intermittent OH problems before this, caused by the main pump motor stalling, sorted with a couple of new capacitors on the motor. temp probes measure the right resistance. looking at the board it appears there are some similarities and some differences with the GL2000 vs the EL2000, I have found D3 and D7 but they are further apart on my board see photos below. Defiantly looks like some evidence of over heating on D7 but not sure about D3. D7 and D3 are both the Z9W diodes which is the 10v one I think. Also some evidence of heat at Z11 which is a circuit protection diode I believe. I have ordered some replacements and I’ll let you know how I get on @Michael H did the diodes fix your problem on the EL2001 board?

Hi all Had a strange issue awhile back with a main hose being sucked in by a pump which leaked water , I drained down for the winter and replaced the hose. I filled up at the weekend and now getting flashing heater and pumps none of the pumps run and the heater doesn’t work? The blower works and the lights etc. IMG_6620.mov IMG_6620.mov Could it be the water level sensor, how do you check it? appreciate any help. I am an engineer and previously repaired the main board which had the burnt out relay to the heater, had similar issues with that but I have checked it and it is ok? IMG_6620.mov

Thursday Pools Wellspring graphite installed in 2021. We noticed fading/bleaching in 2nd season (2023) above the water line. Once we closed the pool for the winter we had very noticable fading below the water line. But, like Lafayette_tim said, we have chairs on the sun shelf and the color is fine underneath the chairs. The sun has faded it badly and in my opinion has nothing to do with water balance. I haven't notified Thursday Pools yet but after reading all of the comments here I don't think they'll help. Let's hope we can get some kind of help with our pools. This is not right.

Yeah that's a FUp and replumbing it all could be difficult. Since you have deleted the "Salt" diode I might first pop the handle all the way out. Next cut the top of the gate valve flat by cutting off and removing the part where the handle goes when closed and hooks in to the top of the gate valve to hold it in a closed (down) position. Next get in the hole and using a screwdriver or the gate handle and push the slice portion all the way down so it is in a closed position. Then using 2 part plastic weld epoxy (I use Devcon plastic weld epoxy) fill the hole at the top of the gate where the handle went in. Cutting off the part where the handle goes in the down position and making it flat will make applying the epoxy and filling the hole easier. Now you have to do something about the flex hose on the right of the carbon rods in first photo. Looks like it is 3/4" flex going into 3/4" Rigid pipe? Can't see what's above or where the rigid goes. You could leave it as is and not do anything but there will likely be little or now flow going through the pipe with the gate in the closed position permanently and water might sit there on the carbon rod side and go stagnant and nasty over time. You could cut the 3/4" flex in the middle and cap plug both sides of it. Where does the rigid plumbing line go?

Hello - I recently purchased a 2017 Jacuzzi J470 hot tub second-hand. The electrical cover plate located inside the hot tub indicates that the Tub can be configured for 30 / 50 or 60 amp. However, the 2017 Manual that Jacuzzi sent to me based on the S/N of the hot tub says it should be 40/50/60 amp configurations. Is it possible the cover plate inside the hot tub was misprinted and I should go off what the manual says it should be? Jacuzzi customer service did not have a good answer other than that model and S/N of Jacuzzi should follow the attached manual they sent me, which says 40/50/60 amp configurations. I want to wire it properly and dont want to undersize / oversize the wire size... 2017 - J-400 Owner's Manual.pdf

I have an older LA Spa Oasis with what appears to be an S-class gecko unit. It seems to hover around 80-90°. the water temperature reading shows it at set temperature. When the water cools off the heater kicks on and brings it back to what it thinks is temperature. So essentially it’s maintaining an incorrect temp. All other functions seem to be normal. the heater kicks on and kicks off as if it’s maintaining the set temp. I had a technician repair the circuit board, the issue persisted. He then replaced the thermometer. Heated to the correct temperature for a day or two. Now it is back to hovering between 80 and 90 and it seems to be the same. No error codes obvious. Right after the thermometer was replaced the control panel read “32” but that went away overnight. The technician appears to be stumped. we checked to confirm that it is not an economy mode as the manual states for troubleshooting. Any advice on things to check would be very appreciated. Located in Bend Oregon

Inspector failed our electrical inspection for hot tub install because he is requiring us to put one machine screw in at each joint of the birdcage. We didn't install or have anything to do with the birdcage. Anyone else run into this issue?

Hottub is from about 2009. Last time I emptied my hottub, after filling, some of the jets were not working. This tub has 2 pumps, some jets run on each pump, so it does not appear to be a pump issue. The circ pump runs and water comes out a lot of the jets, but a lot of the jets near the steps/pump are not working. Also, the ice bucket and filter bowls are not draining. So I'm just in the process of emtying again, and was hoping to get to the bottom of the issue. With the water drained, if I remove a non-working jet and stick the hose in there, water comes out many of the other non working jets. The tub has a salt water system, but i gave up using it many years ago. I'm thinking one of the knife gates may have broken closed and is preventing water from circulating to a bunch of specific jets? I t looks like there is a knife gate that would allow you to isolate the salt water electrode thingy for replacement, and sure enough, now the handle comes completely out, so clearly that gate is now closed (can't say for sure what state it was in before emptying). So, first of all does that make sense? If so, is there any way I can get that valve open, and just fix it open? I've replaced 2 of those valves with ball valves in the past, along with the heater. Replacing this one looks a bit more troublesome due to short pipe lengths, and different sized plumbing. I've attached a few pics. Please let me know if anyone has some ideas or insights... Thanks!

gentle Spa is basically pH neutral. IT should not have any effect on pH since it's a mixture of boric acid and sodium tetraborate pentahydrate (pentahydrate form of borax)