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If the pump is running during FLC it could be due to a sticking or stuck on low pump relay. If this is the case, when you press the jets button to switch to high speed jets the pump will receive both low and high signals and buzz loudly. It could also be pressure switch that is bad or out of calibration. The pressure switch should be set to 2psi. SpaBoardDoctor

Bad heater or water on board somewhere likely for trip but back to the DRY code. Could be low flow across the heater from obstructed pump, dirty filter, too many jets turned off, etc., or as stated above by CST, a non running pump. The other possibility is that the heater relay is stuck on or has been sticking on after the pump shuts off or after the end of a call for heat causing the heater barrel temperature to reach the high limit. If the relay failure is not repaired it can lead to an element short circuit i.e. GFCI trip as described above, or an open element i.e. no heat even though heat indicator is lit. SpaBoardDoctor

Ran into the same problem with jettsetter cover I just received. How did you resolve.

Manufacturers want you to deal directly with the dealer that sold you the spa and is in part why a reputable dealer is "Just as important". If you are unhappy with the customer service with your dealer... show up at the store around 1 pm on a Sat. when the sales floor is at it's busiest and let them know how disappointed you are in a mildly loud voice. I am 100% sure they will kiss your ass.. pronto...lol

I am very happy with my Bullfrog hot tub. I am very disappointed in the complete lack of customer service from Bullfrog corporate to even-return-an-inquiry to me, ever. I am very curious if you have gotten responses from Bullfrog when you have either left a voicemail message or when you have sent a message via Bullfrog's website messaging page. Personally, I have never been gotten back to via either method, period. Before I purchased my 2023 Bullfrog A6L Select 1/6/24 (date I gave the dealer full cash payment), I sent several questions directly to Bullfrog (both phone and web msg.) in research mode trying to confirm my leaning toward purchasing a Bullfrog brand tub. Crickets. After my purchase, I sent a few more inquiries directly to Bullfrog, even giving my serial number, date of purchase, and dealer. Still zero response to either method. Unfortunately for me, the brand-new Bullfrog dealer I purchased from, is just as bad. I read all the posts saying that dealership choice was as important as hot tub brand. I could see that a known good dealer was important, maybe not 'just as important' as the brand, but significant. I balanced trusting a new dealer who gave me a price thousands less than the very large other dealer in my area. The large dealer, with 8 stores, got many bad reviews on various sites. They had experience, but not a record of follow through with their customers. After getting the great price quote from the new dealer, I wanted to see if the internet rep for the large would match the price. They just strung me along disingenuously, even lying to me. So the big experienced Bullfrog dealer had a poor reputation. Being impressed with the Quality of what I had read on Bullfrog, there was no 'trusted' Bullfrog dealer options, unless I was willing to look into dealers maybe 6+ hours away, which I did not.

Yeah it’s a private hot tub but still want to be careful. Will look into bromine. Thanks

cal hypo will add 7 ppm for every 10 ppm of chlorine added. If you initial calcium hardness is not too high it's fine to use until our CH climbs to around 400 ppm, then switch to bleach until your next drain and fill (which should be done every 3 to 4 months). It is an unstabilized chlorine source like bleach so it will not add or raise cyanuric acid like dichlor. . Be aware that it is slow dissolving so yo want to predissolve it in a bucket of water first before adding to the tub. It is net netural on use so should have minimal impact on pH like bleach (alkaline on addition, acidic reaction on sanitizing) . If you find that your pH is rising then lower your TA. For most people, keeping TA between 50 go 70 ppm is the sweet spot for pH stability.

Some people recommend this but I would not. There are many water borne illnesses that include various enteric illnesses and such pulmonary illnesses as Legionnaires' disease and Mycobacterium avium pneumonia (hut tub lung), not to mentions pseudomonas skin infections (hot tub itch). The ONLY way to prevent them is to use an approved fast acting residual sanitizer which, for a wooden tub, bromine is probably your best choice with chlorine a second. However, if this is a private hot tub you can do whatever you want. Just don't let it get you sick or kill you since it is a possibility with undersanitized water.

I read somewhere that you shouldn’t put any chemicals in a cedar hot tub! Is this correct,if not what can I add to water to sanitize it from one session to next?

Just received delivery of my Jacuzzi J315 and waiting for electrical hook up. I have been doing my reading and so far here are my plans once I fill it. 1. Purge with Ahh-some as directed, drain. 2. Purchase K2006 test kit for testing 3. Balance and sanitize water (Calcium>TA>Ph>chlorine) Two questions: 1. Am I missing anything I should be doing? 2. All I read says to remove the pillows for any purge but this model has the 'Hydrosooth Pillows' which do not look to be removable by myself. Is this an issue? Thanks

Update, April 29: Small leak noticed, water level 2" down (I don't check water level every day). So I removed the filter and added more "Fix a Leak". Well, the marine epoxy was a good try, spa is 36 years old.....the epoxy looks like it's still holding....

Where do you get 240V from? I see only 3 wires black white and green. This would indicate a 120V set up.. but needs a jumper wire from Neutral to the red wire location. See the diagram at the lower left of the schematic. For 240V it would need 4 wires red black white and green. At top right of the schematic you will see the jumper settings. For 120V you want LC mode. for 240V HC mode. Just below the jumper settings you will see where the pump wires should connect to the board for 120V and also 240V. Verify pump 1 is a 120V pump and not 240V. You can run the pack as a 240V system but for the heater but the pump remains 120v. See note at left of the schematic. There is not fuse in the pressure switch.

Also.. wanting to add an additional issue I’m noticing. when testing the spa pack wiring it does detect electricity; however, the breaker in the hot tub pops before I’m able to get a good read. Is this indicative of anything? I ordered a new pressure switch that arrives tomorrow but I’m hesitant to attempt to replace if the unit is fried.

Hi there, thanks for the response. photos attached The issue is that the hot tub won’t turn/do anything. Once plugged in the hot tub turned on and then immediately flashed (the screen) and went off. 220v were sent instead of 110v based on previous owner telling us that is how it was set up. Is there a fuse in the pressure switch? I removed the wiring and tried to test it with a meter, but I’m not 100% sure I did it right or if this model pressure switch can be tested.

Disconnect the pump from the board and test for power coming off the board in each speed if a 2 speed. If you get correct power to each speed the you likely have a pump issue. How little... If the board got wet then it might just need more time to dry are you sure it was pump 1 that was tripping the breaker and not the heater element kicking in at the same general time as the pump? Disconnect the heater from the board and try. Heater elements are the most common cause of a breaker tripping.

Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover. https://spacare.com/productimages/pdfmanuals/Gecko/SSPAServiceManual.pdf See pages 7 and 10 The only difference is the jumper wire shown on page 7 connecting L2 to N Page 10 shows the HC (High Current) and LC (Low Current) setting for the jumpers. for 240 V set to cover the pins on jumper 1. Look on the schematic on the inside cover to make sure the jumper settings match the manual. Not sure what your issue is based on your description... Is the GFCI tripping?

Hi there! we made a huge mistake with electrical. We just got a 2008 Dynasty Spa Stingray. The manual and paperwork that went with the spa indicated the electrical was 220v; however, we noticed that it was actually wired for 110v Is there a way we can test the circuit to make sure it needs to be replaced? The tub was free so I’d rather make certain it’s fried before replacing. So far we’ve tested all the fuses and they look OK. Thanks in advance!

Fixed... everything works now. The FL1 was a problem of my own making - when I originally opened the tub a couple of months ago i was so angry with the leaking flow switch that was "professionally" repaired that i tightened it by hand 1/4 turn and screwed the direction of the flapper thingy. I figured this out even before opening the hot tub, I remembered that episode when i went to pick up some plumber tape to redo the switch. The "professionals" had used just a couple of turns of thin tape and it was not working...(random thought - HF has MUCH better tape than HD, it is much thicker). So I removed the flow switch, re-taped it and put it back on, pointing in the correct direction. FL1 is gone, heater working, etc. I will let it run for 48 hrs and then do a deep clean with Ahhsome and replace the water. CanadianSpaTech - I cannot thank you enough for your help and advice... I really appreciate it!

Milton,ON When you install it just make sure to look down the tube and make sure the element is centered in the tube and not touching the side wall of the tube. Drop out the sensor on the short end to make it easier to remove the old and install the new. I stick my fingers in the long end and keep the element centered in the tube and then tighten the large nut on the short end first and then the nut on the long end. Also make sure the o-rings in the element don't fall off. Read below and you should not have any issues. Careful when tightening the 3/8" nuts to the copper tabs. Be sure to hold the nut underneath. You want it tight but if you go to far you might snap the element post. They twist easily so hold it in place with a wrench. I have a 3/8" wrench that I ground down the sides so it fits between the copper tab and the nut. Good Luck Recommend (Out of London,ON.. spend $100 get free shipping): https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/balboa-4-0-kw-heater-element/

Awesome. I will order a replacement heater, watch a video on how to replace it, and let you know. Thank you very much. It's a shame we don't live near Toronto; then we could hire you. Thanks again, -Darren

I have an older model Four Winds spa, newer Balboa heater and controller. Recently I started getting random errors like over temp or DRY. So I assumed the probes were bad. I replaced those and after I powered back up, it kicked the breaker. I assumed I got it a little wet so I blew it off and reset. It powered up but was going crazy clicking and cycling through the display. I assumed I killed a fuse. So today I replaced all those. I restarted and it powered up ok but when pump 1 went to kick on, the breaker tripped. Anything I should check?

An element that is covered in scale will also cause the spa to heat very very slowly and will have trouble getting the water up to temp

Again if you have 240V to the element then it should heat. Test the 2 heater element legs for continuity and a bad element.

Instead of guesses supply us with some more information and we can most likely answer exactly what is going on. For starters what is your sanitizer (chlorine, bromine, N2/MPS, biguinide/peroxide, or something else)? How about posting a full set of test results and how they were obtained (dealer testing, strips, drop based test kit, meter, etc.) Also, is the tub covered or uncovered most of the time? Pollen count in your area ( based on your IP address ) is extremely high right now. (BTW, I'm originally from Millburn) Finally, is the "sludge" slimy, particulate, or gelatinous? Without more information we really can't tell much about the condition of your water.

If by ohm test you mean did I check for conductivity between the l eads and the metal tube like it shows in the pdf from balboawatergroup, then yes, I tested that. -Darren