Darren Stalder Posted April 24 Report Share Posted April 24 My Balboa VS501Z is not heating the water. The pump is working just fine and the filter is clean. The heater is 5.5Kw 800 15in 2x2 M7 Stud. I've tested all the locations mentioned in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJaHPz75qJU and https://www.balboawatergroup.com/getdoc.cfm?id=1808. And I've got 240v across the black and the red L1 and L2. I've got 243v across the two copper leads going into the heater. All of this is when the heat light is on. I've tested all three fuses and they all have connectivity. How to figure out if it's the circuit board or the heater that has failed? My guess would the heater but that's just speculation. Hopefully this post works since I've repeatedly failed the "prove you're not a bot" questions on sign-up. The sign-up disagree on what day follows Tuesday, how many hours there are in a day, and what the third letter of 'letter' is. Please mods, be kind. -Darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted April 25 Report Share Posted April 25 On 4/24/2024 at 6:14 PM, Darren Stalder said: I've got 243v across the two copper leads going into the heater. ODD... Heat light on and you get 240V to the copper tabs then it should be heating or the GFCI should be tripping. Try Test button on the GFCI and make sure it is working correctly.. Did you ohm test the element? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Stalder Posted April 26 Author Report Share Posted April 26 If by ohm test you mean did I check for conductivity between the l eads and the metal tube like it shows in the pdf from balboawatergroup, then yes, I tested that. -Darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted April 27 Report Share Posted April 27 58 minutes ago, Darren Stalder said: check for conductivity between the leads Again if you have 240V to the element then it should heat. Test the 2 heater element legs for continuity and a bad element. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted April 27 Report Share Posted April 27 An element that is covered in scale will also cause the spa to heat very very slowly and will have trouble getting the water up to temp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Stalder Posted April 27 Author Report Share Posted April 27 Awesome. I will order a replacement heater, watch a video on how to replace it, and let you know. Thank you very much. It's a shame we don't live near Toronto; then we could hire you. Thanks again, -Darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted April 27 Report Share Posted April 27 Milton,ON When you install it just make sure to look down the tube and make sure the element is centered in the tube and not touching the side wall of the tube. Drop out the sensor on the short end to make it easier to remove the old and install the new. I stick my fingers in the long end and keep the element centered in the tube and then tighten the large nut on the short end first and then the nut on the long end. Also make sure the o-rings in the element don't fall off. Read below and you should not have any issues. Careful when tightening the 3/8" nuts to the copper tabs. Be sure to hold the nut underneath. You want it tight but if you go to far you might snap the element post. They twist easily so hold it in place with a wrench. I have a 3/8" wrench that I ground down the sides so it fits between the copper tab and the nut. Good Luck Recommend (Out of London,ON.. spend $100 get free shipping): https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/balboa-4-0-kw-heater-element/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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