Cal Spa - Return Of The FL Code

[Ruttagger]

I've had FL codes in the past but a new Pressure switch has always cleared it up.  Here is what is happening now.

I recently replaced the Heater in my Cal Spa (2006'ish) and had no issues.  Around 3 months after that my spa shut down with an FL code.  I could reset the spa from the breaker but the spa would not turn back on.  The panel would light up and show the temp, then after 3-5 seconds it would return to the FL code.  If I reset the spa then ran out there and hit the jets button before the FL code came on it would turn on, and heat.  It seems like it would simply run its filtration cycle, then go back into the FL Code.

I went to my local spa dealer and got a new pressure switch.  Replaced it and had no FL code....for 2 weeks.  It just came back again and is acting the exact same way.  I did recently order new filters so I thought that maybe they were restricting flow but I have tried to run the spa without the filter in at all and I still get the code.  My worry is maybe running with no filter isnt properly testing it because it seems like when I rest the spa its not fully resetting it because it will auto go back to the FL if I dont hit the jets.  Is there anyways to fully reset it so I can test if maybe it is the filters?

Im stumped.

[RDspaguy]

Not the filter. Turn of power for 10 seconds. It will still save your time, settings, etc. But will clear your codes.

Your running out and hitting the jet button is the key. There are 2 Fl errors, one is for open flow switch, the other for closed. When you turn on the pump manually before it gets done looking for the open flow switch, it will think that closed flow switch it is reading is how it should be. Your circuit board thinks the flow switch is closed when it should be open. This could be an adjustment issue with the flow switch, a bad flow switch, a wire issue such as a wet or corroded terminal, or a circuit board issue.

Can you use an electrical tester? Are you comfortable working around hot electrical circuits?

For starters, lets test the switch. With the power off and your tester set for continuity or ohms, remove one wire from the pressure switch and test across the switch terminals. You should not have continuity, and ohms should be the same as before you touched the pressure switch with the test leads. 

Next, with one wire still disconnected from the pressure switch, turn on power and see if it starts the pump as it should before throwing the Fl code. This Fl will probably alternate with the temperature on the display.

[Ruttagger]

57 minutes ago, RDspaguy said:

Not the filter. Turn of power for 10 seconds. It will still save your time, settings, etc. But will clear your codes.

Your running out and hitting the jet button is the key. There are 2 Fl errors, one is for open flow switch, the other for closed. When you turn on the pump manually before it gets done looking for the open flow switch, it will think that closed flow switch it is reading is how it should be. Your circuit board thinks the flow switch is closed when it should be open. This could be an adjustment issue with the flow switch, a bad flow switch, a wire issue such as a wet or corroded terminal, or a circuit board issue.

Can you use an electrical tester? Are you comfortable working around hot electrical circuits?

For starters, lets test the switch. With the power off and your tester set for continuity or ohms, remove one wire from the pressure switch and test across the switch terminals. You should not have continuity, and ohms should be the same as before you touched the pressure switch with the test leads. 

Next, with one wire still disconnected from the pressure switch, turn on power and see if it starts the pump as it should before throwing the Fl code. This Fl will probably alternate with the temperature on the display.

Thanks for the reply.

I do have a multi meter but the battery in it was dead and the meter was so old the screws on the back wont budge to open it up.  Tomorrow I will go purchase a new multi meter and follow your steps and get back to you.

I do know that if I disconnect one of the leads on the pressure switch the FL code goes away instantly and my spa will run but will not heat.  I'm not sure if that helps with anything.

Ill let you know how my tests go tomorrow, that is if stores are open for me to actually purchase a new tester.

[RDspaguy]

That helps, alright. You have a bad or poorly adjusted pressure switch. New part does not always mean good part. And new for you could have been on various shelves for years before you even touched it. Usually this is a sign of a leak in the diaphragm of the pressure switch shorting out the terminals. Is there any sign of water on or around the pressure switch?

There is either a gear-like ring or a screw head on top of the pressure switch. This is the adjustment. It is usually glued in place at the factory with a dot of glue, but not always. You can adjust this slightly, it should be close if it worked for 2 weeks. If it is just out of adjustment that should clear it up. Be careful to only turn it a little at a time and remember how much and which way.

But my bet is leak in the pressure switch. You will likely find a little wet spot on or around the pressure switch, or a white or rusty crusty buildup starting to form on it, or in a line down one side. When checking, unplug one pressure switch wire and turn jets on high to increase system pressure. You might just see it drip.

[Ruttagger]

On 3/20/2020 at 11:52 PM, RDspaguy said:

That helps, alright. You have a bad or poorly adjusted pressure switch. New part does not always mean good part. And new for you could have been on various shelves for years before you even touched it. Usually this is a sign of a leak in the diaphragm of the pressure switch shorting out the terminals. Is there any sign of water on or around the pressure switch?

There is either a gear-like ring or a screw head on top of the pressure switch. This is the adjustment. It is usually glued in place at the factory with a dot of glue, but not always. You can adjust this slightly, it should be close if it worked for 2 weeks. If it is just out of adjustment that should clear it up. Be careful to only turn it a little at a time and remember how much and which way.

But my bet is leak in the pressure switch. You will likely find a little wet spot on or around the pressure switch, or a white or rusty crusty buildup starting to form on it, or in a line down one side. When checking, unplug one pressure switch wire and turn jets on high to increase system pressure. You might just see it drip.

The spa has been running with no issues for a few days now. 

With the pressure switch unplugged I turned the jets on high and notices water leaking out of the collar for the 3" pipe that connects into the Heater.  This was only 3 inches back from the pressure switch to this maybe was the issue?  I tightened that and also adjusted my switch half a turn clockwise. 

As soon as I did this I plugged my connector back and the heater kicked on.  I then turn the jets on high, then hit the jets again to turn them off completely.  This is when the tun would usually sit for 3-5 seconds before throwing the FL code.  Instead the jets turned right back on to continue the Filtration cycle. 

Ill keep an eye on things but like I said, everything has been running smooth since.

Thanks for you help!

[RDspaguy]

👍