Ruttagger

I'll look into that option. I remember when I replaced the board 4 years ago it was because a relay went (forget which one) and the hot tub place told me on this particular board the relays can't be replaced. This was also confirmed by an electronics repair shop that I would need an entirely new board because the relays aren't replaceable.

Its not an LED, it's an old light. There is and was no light indicator that would come on the control. The guys who replaced my pump said the connection on the board was only getting 5v so that's why it won't turn on. Seemed odd to me that I never had an issue with that before they replaced the pump. Maybe it's just an unfortunate coincidence.

I just want someone's professional opinion on my situation. I have an older Cal Spa, 2005 model. My pump finally packed it in so I replaced it. They no longer make the Dually style pump so I had to get a new pump retrofitted to my system. Everything seemed to go well but when they were testing it after the install they told me my panel was not generating enough volts to operate the spa light in the tub. I said it has worked for 10 years and I just replaced the panel a few years ago. They said the relay must be gone. To me it sounds like they broke my panel somehow. Has this every happened to anyone before? Do I need to buy a whole new motherboard just to get my Spa light working?

The spa has been running with no issues for a few days now. With the pressure switch unplugged I turned the jets on high and notices water leaking out of the collar for the 3" pipe that connects into the Heater. This was only 3 inches back from the pressure switch to this maybe was the issue? I tightened that and also adjusted my switch half a turn clockwise. As soon as I did this I plugged my connector back and the heater kicked on. I then turn the jets on high, then hit the jets again to turn them off completely. This is when the tun would usually sit for 3-5 seconds before throwing the FL code. Instead the jets turned right back on to continue the Filtration cycle. Ill keep an eye on things but like I said, everything has been running smooth since. Thanks for you help!

Thanks for the reply. I do have a multi meter but the battery in it was dead and the meter was so old the screws on the back wont budge to open it up. Tomorrow I will go purchase a new multi meter and follow your steps and get back to you. I do know that if I disconnect one of the leads on the pressure switch the FL code goes away instantly and my spa will run but will not heat. I'm not sure if that helps with anything. Ill let you know how my tests go tomorrow, that is if stores are open for me to actually purchase a new tester.

I've had FL codes in the past but a new Pressure switch has always cleared it up. Here is what is happening now. I recently replaced the Heater in my Cal Spa (2006'ish) and had no issues. Around 3 months after that my spa shut down with an FL code. I could reset the spa from the breaker but the spa would not turn back on. The panel would light up and show the temp, then after 3-5 seconds it would return to the FL code. If I reset the spa then ran out there and hit the jets button before the FL code came on it would turn on, and heat. It seems like it would simply run its filtration cycle, then go back into the FL Code. I went to my local spa dealer and got a new pressure switch. Replaced it and had no FL code....for 2 weeks. It just came back again and is acting the exact same way. I did recently order new filters so I thought that maybe they were restricting flow but I have tried to run the spa without the filter in at all and I still get the code. My worry is maybe running with no filter isnt properly testing it because it seems like when I rest the spa its not fully resetting it because it will auto go back to the FL if I dont hit the jets. Is there anyways to fully reset it so I can test if maybe it is the filters? Im stumped.

It all started a few months ago when my bearing started squealing in my 2006 Cal Spa. After taking the pump out and doing some research I learned that this was a "Dually" pump. I spoke to all the hot tub places and small electric motor places in town and nobody would rebuild it. They told me they were near impossible to get into and it wasnt worth their time or my money. Before retrofitting a new regual pump into my Spa I decided I had to at least try and take this thing apart. Long story short I got it apart with no issues. I replaced both bearing myself and bought a new Impeller because one of them was starting to crack and deteriorate. I also replaced both the shaft seals since I had it apart. The pump went back together easy and I put it back into my Spa. Plugged everything in and there you go, Hot Tub back up and running. No issues. I should also mention that I replaced the top side panel and the main motherboard about 5 months ago as well after getting some errors that after searching told me I had either a bad top side or a bad motherboard so I just replaced both. Everything has been working fine for 2 months until the other day when I went out to my hot tub and removed the cover only to find the temp at 90 instead of 104 and it wasnt heating. I hit the Jets button and the motherboard relay clicked but nothing happened. Pressed it again and they came on but on Hi. No matter what i did the low speed pump would not come on but the hi speed worked fine. The massage seat jets also worked fine. Randomly pressing the jets on and off after sometime and for whatever reason I got the low speed to work and it started heating. Once it reaches 104 it shuts off but when it goes to kick in to start heating you hear the relay click, the pump hums for about 5 seconds, then stops. From here your back to fighting with the Hi Speed until the low speed works. The only sure way to get the low speed on everytime is to catch the tub when it wants to heat and the pump starts humming and while its humming you hit the jets on Hi, then again and it will go to low everytime. On top of this if I kill the tub at the breaker and reset it when the tub comes back on it reads "01" for a few seconds, then reads the current temperature before it trys to kick on but it wil just hum. Then from here if you catch it in time you can hit the jets button a few times and it will go to low. As well as this when its acting up it seems as if you have to hit the Jets button twice for everything. If its on Hi and you hit the Jets button it will not shut off, nothing happens. Only when you press it a second time will it shut off. Then if you hit it again it will click but no low speed, and a second press will get you back to Hi Speed. I read somewhere that there is usually a Start Capacitor and a Run Capacitor. I just took my pump out today and opened to the two covers to check the capacitors and they both look fine although perhaps they could be damaged in the inside. I also read that I could have fried my Relay on the motherboard that controlls the low speed pump to kick on when it needs to be heated. This would be odd since my board is only 5 months old. I took my pump apart today real quick to make sure nothing was lodged in the impellers and that everything moved freely. It seems to spin relatively smooth and without resistance. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Im going cracy here, haha. Thanks Kenny