evan_wellens Posted January 2, 2016 Report Share Posted January 2, 2016 1st this forum has always been a life saver , many thanks !! I've got a solana TX 2005 with blinking lights. They've happened before and simply unplugging and plugging the unit fixed the issue. Now it wont and the tub is cooling ( you can see heating mode is trying to come on, but runs 24/7 and worried this will burn out the motor eventually. ( bad timing since winter is here). Did a few tests , the heater lugs measure 120 against the binding wire ( against each other 0), so electrically seems ok. ( it's wired for 120V ) Can't Amp test the wires to the heating element as there is no access to get an app meter clamp on, so not sure if there is electrical flow through the element ( thought about a continuity test but not sure if that is indicative of a failed element) . Jumped the pressure switch as well ( removed connections bypassing the pressure switch and joined them with some romex) . Still blinking dots and not sure what else to try. Any advice would be awesome . Thanks in advance !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 Don't jump the pressure switch- that will just lead to a different flow error. Your initial problem is a flow error. Try removing the filter, and silver ion cartridge if you have one in there, and see if the problem vanishes. You can get two different flow errors. Stuck open (when the filter is clogged) and stuck closed (when you jump the pressure switch) Just OHM out the pressure switch since you seem to know how to do that- with the pump running, and not running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan_wellens Posted January 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Thank you so much for the reply !!! We did remove the filter in the early stages of diagnosing the problem, forgot to mention that in the port So I'm continuity checking the pressure switch across it's to leads connected to the board with pump in heating mode or just on/off ? And I guess that will tell me if the switch is faulty ? Thanks !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Unplug the pressure switch harness from the circuit board while testing it. When working, it will read OL when pump not running, and should read read continuity when pump is running, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan_wellens Posted January 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Thanks again !! So I'm basically testing continuity when the pump is on / off ? I have no OL error code , just blinking dots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted January 6, 2016 Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 that's correct. Blinking dots is a flow error on this spa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan_wellens Posted January 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 Thanks .. Seeing that there appears to be no observable flow problem from jets in heating , or other modes does it make sense it's the pressure switch , or could it be the control board ? It's been far too cold for me to work on and hoping this weekend's warm spell will give an opportunity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted January 6, 2016 Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 If we were to throw darts at a dartboard, based on the description you've given thus far, the first dart would be aimed squarely at the pressure switch. Does that mean that the pressure switch is the problem for every single person with these exact symptoms? Unfortunately, no, it does not. More like 9/10. I like those odds. But the great thing- we can stop guessing once it warms up and you OHM out the pressure switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan_wellens Posted January 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 Thanks I'm dying to test , but when I get home it's like 10 degrees out ( and the cover is a beast to get off, not sure if it would crack being so cold ) so I've got to wait for the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan_wellens Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Ok finally got to testing I show continuity always.. Yes the switch is disconnected from the circuit board. Wasn't the result I was expecting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Ok finally got to testing I show continuity always.. Yes the switch is disconnected from the circuit board. Wasn't the result I was expecting. But it is. You just confirmed a bad pressure switch. There should only be continuity when the pump is running, and no continuity when the pump is off. If you're getting continuity when the pump is off, the pressure switch is defective. Just pop in a new one, you'll be good to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan_wellens Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 I did and I am good to go... AWESOME !!!! Many thanks for all the advice !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrick Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 I need the same help for my 1993 Hot Spring Classic F. This Forum has gotten me up and running to this point. Now I am stumped. After filling the tub a few months ago to do a flush after I did the conversion from DC to AC that was recommended I discovered I had all pumps, jets, light working, but no heat. I did the flush in cold water, then drained the tub to work on the heat issue. Then I discovered I had pinched the capillary tube for the thermostat so I replaced the thermostat. The spa limit switch and high limit switch both tested fine using the hot water bath test. At the same time I replaced the thermostat and was running a test with power I discovered that my heater relay was not working, so I have replaced that. I have tested the heater element by plugging it into an outlet with the adapter plug for a couple seconds. It heats. Before I filled the tub this time I installed an ozone generator. It is working fine along with the circulation pump and all the jets. But I still have no heat, just like before. What have I not replaced that could be the problem? How do I test it? What else could it be, a failed new part like the relay? HELP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shcircut Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 I have a Balboa MVS504DZ controller on my Artesian Hot tub. I get OHH reading. I have a circulation pump just for the heater - does not come on. I checked continuity on all 4 fuses. Ok there. The pump was replaced 2 years ago. Pulled plug off pump at controller and checked for voltage. Get 120V on top and bottom pins. no voltage on other pins. The pump is 230V. Could use some guidance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Spa Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 You need to test between the top AND bottom pin, and look for ~240 volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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