Ott Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 This morning the hot tub has no power. The plug on the end of the power cord with the reset buttons works, both test button breaks it and reset button resets it with the green light coming on but no power at all to the tub. I tried resetting the heater button but it doesn't respond, I can't find another reset button to press. Odd thing is when I trip the button on the power plug I hear a humming sound and I cannot locate it, it doesn't come from anywhere in the power compartment and it stops when I unplug the cord. There is no humming sound when the green light is on denoting that the GFI in the plug is working. I replaced the trumpet style heater that was bad last year with a Watkins No Fault 73791 Heater with a manual reset button, pressing it has no response. ...Ott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Just because the green light is on the GFCI doesn't mean it's working properly. Test for voltage between hot and neutral at the spa- probably a bad neutral in the GFCI... (you may get power between black and green, but not between black and white) If you don't get 120v at the spa between hot and neutral (black and white) replace the GFCI Don't bother with the heater- at this point, this has nothing to do with anything overheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ott Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Thanks, I'll take my DVM tomorrow and check the voltage you suggest. The green light had me thinking the GFCI at the plug was OK. I'll let you know what I find tomorrow... ....Ott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ott Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 I checked out the cord as it comes into the box and I get 125 volts across hot and neutral and hot and ground. There are two red and one green LED in the box and non are lit. The incoming line has a bunch of jumpers after and they check out 125V. it just doesn't seem to go further. Any ideas? ...Ott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arches2 Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 any Fuses on the board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 I believe the IQ2000 needs replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ott Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 I don't know about fuses, I have a IQ 2020 Control box part number 73223 and since it is raining right now, I will look tomorrow. ....Ott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 I don't know about fuses, I have a IQ 2020 Control box part number 73223 and since it is raining right now, I will look tomorrow. ....Ott Don't ask me why I thought you had an older unit... There was a year when Watkins used a small glass 0.5amp fuse on the IQ2020- it is/was particularly small. There is a chance you have one, and it would save a bundle if that's the problem (No such fuse existed on the IQ2000) If you have good power (and it sounds like you do) the IQ2020 is toast- unless you have one with a fuse, and that little fuse has blown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ott Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 When you say 'toast' does that mean the whole box has to be replaced or just some components? I see no fuse. ....Ott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 There is a very slim possibility that the heater relay board is bad. It usually does NOT do what you have described, but when they go, they can sometimes burn a trace which will kill the spa. But, before we go there, here's what I would do if it were mine: I would replace the GFI with a regular power plug($10 or less at the hardware store) just as a troubleshooting tool. You don't have to get a 20A, a 15A will fit. If that brings everything back on line, then replace the GFI. Some newer digital meters will show a voltage when it's really just a trace leakage. In fact, when I see a higher voltage, like your 125, instead of 115 or 110, then I suspect a meter which is like me: quiet, not always right, but far too sensitive. Try that as soon as the rain stops, and let us know. If that doesn't do it, I would remove the heater relay board and check the back of it for a burned trace or solder joint next. That is far less expensive than a whole IQ-2020/control head combo. Let's keep our fingers crossed! HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1oty Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 I believe the 1999 models have the IQ2000 boards, not the IQ2020. As such, there should not be a heater relay board. It should have separate relays. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ott Posted July 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 >>>>I believe the 1999 models have the IQ2000 boards, not the IQ2020.<<<< John, you are right, it is a IQ2000. This spa was a rebuilt classic we purchased to replace the old 25 year-old classic which leaked so bad we finally had to give up. The classic is an open construction that my wife uses for water excercises. Somehow I got the board number mixed up while researching on the net. I apologize. I will bypass the GFCI and see what happens. ....Ott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ott Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 After trying everthing I gave up and called the place where I bought the hot tub and they sent an $80 repairman who determined the IQ2000 box was blown and they offered to replace it at $180 more than I can get the box with free shipping from the net. It is a plug and play box and not difficult to install, I am quite capable to do it quickly. NOW MY FEAR. How likely is it that whatever it was to cause the board to fail is going to do this at the first power-up wityh the new box. Would I be better off to swallow the $180 plus hourly installation fee and let the tech install it and if it blows would his comapny be lible and not cvharge me for the newlly blown box? I will start a new thread to ask this question also. ....Ott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Not likely- Go ahead and save the 180. Just ensure you have the terminal jumpers configured properly, as well as the program jumpers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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