Ott

After trying everthing I gave up and called the place where I bought the hot tub and they sent an $80 repairman who determined the IQ2000 box was blown and they offered to replace it at $180 more than I can get the box with free shipping from the net. It is a plug and play box and not difficult to install, I am quite capable to do it quickly. NOW MY FEAR. How likely is it that whatever it was to cause the board to fail is going to do this at the first power-up with the new box. Would I be better off to swallow the $180 plus hourly installation fee and let the tech install it and if it blows would his comapny be lible and not cvharge me for the newlly blown box? ....Ott

After trying everthing I gave up and called the place where I bought the hot tub and they sent an $80 repairman who determined the IQ2000 box was blown and they offered to replace it at $180 more than I can get the box with free shipping from the net. It is a plug and play box and not difficult to install, I am quite capable to do it quickly. NOW MY FEAR. How likely is it that whatever it was to cause the board to fail is going to do this at the first power-up wityh the new box. Would I be better off to swallow the $180 plus hourly installation fee and let the tech install it and if it blows would his comapny be lible and not cvharge me for the newlly blown box? I will start a new thread to ask this question also. ....Ott

>>>>I believe the 1999 models have the IQ2000 boards, not the IQ2020.<<<< John, you are right, it is a IQ2000. This spa was a rebuilt classic we purchased to replace the old 25 year-old classic which leaked so bad we finally had to give up. The classic is an open construction that my wife uses for water excercises. Somehow I got the board number mixed up while researching on the net. I apologize. I will bypass the GFCI and see what happens. ....Ott

When you say 'toast' does that mean the whole box has to be replaced or just some components? I see no fuse. ....Ott

I don't know about fuses, I have a IQ 2020 Control box part number 73223 and since it is raining right now, I will look tomorrow. ....Ott

I checked out the cord as it comes into the box and I get 125 volts across hot and neutral and hot and ground. There are two red and one green LED in the box and non are lit. The incoming line has a bunch of jumpers after and they check out 125V. it just doesn't seem to go further. Any ideas? ...Ott

Thanks, I'll take my DVM tomorrow and check the voltage you suggest. The green light had me thinking the GFCI at the plug was OK. I'll let you know what I find tomorrow... ....Ott

This morning the hot tub has no power. The plug on the end of the power cord with the reset buttons works, both test button breaks it and reset button resets it with the green light coming on but no power at all to the tub. I tried resetting the heater button but it doesn't respond, I can't find another reset button to press. Odd thing is when I trip the button on the power plug I hear a humming sound and I cannot locate it, it doesn't come from anywhere in the power compartment and it stops when I unplug the cord. There is no humming sound when the green light is on denoting that the GFI in the plug is working. I replaced the trumpet style heater that was bad last year with a Watkins No Fault 73791 Heater with a manual reset button, pressing it has no response. ...Ott

Thank you both, I just received the heater and the controls and will go at it today as soon as the frost wears off.I noticed that there were no O-rings with the controls nor with the heater. Do I need the O-rings? Can I re-use the ones in the old heater if they are there? .....Ott

Some of the newer retrofit parts need slight modifications but not much. Sometimes you can take the screws out of the old circ pump and then you have a little more play in the lines to make it work. If you need to, just buy some 3/4" vinyl tubing and replace the old lines with longer ones. A couple feet of that tubing only costs a few bucks. The hi-limit and control have different ends to both of them and will only go into the correct slots...there is really no way they can be mixed up. ----------------------------------- Thanks Dan, moving the circulation pump may work. As for replacing the lines, there doesn't seem to be a nipple on the T fitting over the pump for attaching a new line, it is as if the lines in that fitting are fastened some other way, they just come smoothly out of the fitting. .....Ott

We had a Hot Springs Classic spa for 21 years but leaks developed so bad that it was not cost effective to keep it so we replaced it with a used 1999 Classic F because my wife uses it daily for water exercises to help her arthritis and new hot tubs no longer have the open construction of the Classic. I have the 2000 board and I checked and the red heater light was on. The small pump was pumping vigorously, and the jets worked normally. The heater stopped heating after six month. It is the three-fold trumpet kind. I ordered the replacement heater 73790 with a length of 20 inches. I suspect the cause being that the water level was low, below the decorative stripe and the middle filter was quite dirty. 1; The new heater is longer than the old one and if I can shoehorn it in, since it hits the wall on the left in the compartment, the hoses will not reach by about two inches. The hose to the pump has no clamp on the plastic T-pipe above the pump so I can’t replace the hose, can I somehow extend that hose, the same with the second hose. Another solution I can see is to angle the heater up at a 45 deg. angle to get the business end closer to the hoses but that would not allow me to fasten it down, it would be free floating. And in that position would it fill with water on start-up? 2; I have new sensors which plug in on the right side of the board, are they interchangeable or do the thermostat and the high limit control go into dedicated plugs. Tomorrow or Wednesday I will do the work and will be back if I run into trouble. Regards.. …..Ott