ChaiSTi Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 You have a meter, right? Disconnect the wires to the pressure switch, use your meter and set it for continuity and/or ohm and connect your probes to the pressure switch. With the pump running you should be able to adjust the switch just enough to get a close signal (resistance / continuity). Turn off the pump and that close signal should become an open (infinite / no continuity). If you can't get the switch to do that, then you're either adjusting it too much or the PS is faulty. Try adjusting 1/4 turn at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmama Posted July 28, 2011 Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 So I'm very new at this hot tub and forum so excuse me if I'm butting in but I'm having a similar problem as mojord. Although I'm having more of a dead spa. From above posting it sounds as if the pressure switch is closed. Just installed used tub, powered on and got FL on top control with no movement in water. Powerpac clicks when powwered on but thats about it. Left it alone for a day and turned on again last night and everything seemed to work fine. By this morning tub was back to FL reading but water was still warm/steam. Before spontanious working tub, we metered connections and got feedback(volts) from neutral line. Otherwise seemed fine. Tub seems to be in a sleep mode of some sort?? Assuming I will be told to try everything that is previouly posted here but just wanted to make such due to "dead spa". Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojord Posted July 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 For testing, you can always bypass the pressure switch to see if the board is okay. Remove the two wires to the pressure switch and jump the connection after the spa pump comes on. If you jump it before there's water flow, you'll get the solid FLO. Make sure you have adaquate water flowing through the heater or you'll burn it up. ~ Shorted the wires and the FLO error went away [93 - COOL] but warming up....... but 1 hr later, the circulation stopped, and the controller is FROZEN and un-responsive to any of the controls ... display has solid FLO error. You have a meter, right? Disconnect the wires to the pressure switch, use your meter and set it for continuity and/or ohm and connect your probes to the pressure switch. With the pump running you should be able to adjust the switch just enough to get a close signal (resistance / continuity). ~ I tried adjusting the disconnected switch with the pump running and could not get a closed (shorted) signal "this is a brand new switch!" btw: I also cannot get any of 5 SPA repair companies to come out to montauk and FIX IT!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaiSTi Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 With the pump running you should be able to adjust the switch just enough to get a close signal (resistance / continuity). ~ I tried adjusting the disconnected switch with the pump running and could not get a closed (shorted) signal "this is a brand new switch!" btw: I also cannot get any of 5 SPA repair companies to come out to montauk and FIX IT!!! Mojord, Crazy question but is your spa heater on the intake or discharge side of the pump? If on the intake side, you will need a suction switch. If discharge side, a pressure switch. But maybe you just got a bad switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojord Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Crazy question but is your spa heater on the intake or discharge side of the pump? If on the intake side, you will need a suction switch. If discharge side, a pressure switch. But maybe you just got a bad switch. Intake. The switch I took out is a Balboa 2 PSI - 30408 ~ which is what I put back in. Thanks again, ChaiSTi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoop168 Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 I have a 2001 Sundance Optima 850 and having this FLO error also... When the unit calls for heat, the circ pump kicks on and runs fine however if I drop the temp all the way to 80 to keep the unit from heating up, the circ pump runs for about 2-3 minutes after the temp is lowered and i then get the solid FLO and screen freezes like you mentioned above... Sometimes the error clears itself in time, but usually if I don't want to wait i turn the breaker off for a few mins and then its fine... My circ cycle is set to the default (on at 12:00AM for 24 hrs - constant) however the pump only runs when the unit calls for heat, and I don't get the FLO error until I turn the heat up and then turn it back down... Does anyone know why my circ pump isn't on continuously? I know the circ pump is not supposed to run if the actual temp is 2 degrees or more of the set temperature, but it still turns off once it reaches temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaiSTi Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 Intake. The switch I took out is a Balboa 2 PSI - 30408 ~ which is what I put back in. Thanks again, ChaiSTi That could be your problem then. That pressure switch will only operate properly on the pressure/discharge side of the pump. That's probably why you couldn't get a close signal with the pump running on low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaiSTi Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 I have a 2001 Sundance Optima 850 and having this FLO error also... When the unit calls for heat, the circ pump kicks on and runs fine however if I drop the temp all the way to 80 to keep the unit from heating up, the circ pump runs for about 2-3 minutes after the temp is lowered and i then get the solid FLO and screen freezes like you mentioned above... Sometimes the error clears itself in time, but usually if I don't want to wait i turn the breaker off for a few mins and then its fine... My circ cycle is set to the default (on at 12:00AM for 24 hrs - constant) however the pump only runs when the unit calls for heat, and I don't get the FLO error until I turn the heat up and then turn it back down... Does anyone know why my circ pump isn't on continuously? I know the circ pump is not supposed to run if the actual temp is 2 degrees or more of the set temperature, but it still turns off once it reaches temperature. I'm not familiar the Sundance controls/programming. You may want to create a new thread. Did you buy this spa used or new? Check the board to see if there are some jumpers or dipswitch settings that need to be moved for circ. pump operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaiSTi Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 So I'm very new at this hot tub and forum so excuse me if I'm butting in but I'm having a similar problem as mojord. Although I'm having more of a dead spa. From above posting it sounds as if the pressure switch is closed. Just installed used tub, powered on and got FL on top control with no movement in water. Powerpac clicks when powwered on but thats about it. Left it alone for a day and turned on again last night and everything seemed to work fine. By this morning tub was back to FL reading but water was still warm/steam. Before spontanious working tub, we metered connections and got feedback(volts) from neutral line. Otherwise seemed fine. Tub seems to be in a sleep mode of some sort?? Assuming I will be told to try everything that is previouly posted here but just wanted to make such due to "dead spa". Thanks The FL is related to the pressure/flow switch or sensor so I would start there. Do you know what control system is in the spa? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmama Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 So I'm very new at this hot tub and forum so excuse me if I'm butting in but I'm having a similar problem as mojord. Although I'm having more of a dead spa. From above posting it sounds as if the pressure switch is closed. Just installed used tub, powered on and got FL on top control with no movement in water. Powerpac clicks when powwered on but thats about it. Left it alone for a day and turned on again last night and everything seemed to work fine. By this morning tub was back to FL reading but water was still warm/steam. Before spontanious working tub, we metered connections and got feedback(volts) from neutral line. Otherwise seemed fine. Tub seems to be in a sleep mode of some sort?? Assuming I will be told to try everything that is previouly posted here but just wanted to make such due to "dead spa". Thanks The FL is related to the pressure/flow switch or sensor so I would start there. Do you know what control system is in the spa? Well, It is a balboa model not in front of me but after all my research and almost buying a new powerpack, my problem was the pressure switch. The professional I had out though b/c of no pump action that could not be the problem. Easy fix and learn alot so thankful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wizzard of spas Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 My Catalina 2000 (Balboa 200 board) started displaying a FLO error and lost the heat to the tub ... These are the steps I've takin so far to diagnose: 1 - Had SOLID FLO error .. I replaced the pressure switch only to get FLASHING FLO error (and when I turn on the jets I get a flashing FLO 1 error) - I also tried adjusting the adj on the switch, but no luck.. put it back to where it was .. 2 - shorted the switch and the JETS GO OFF and still have FLO error (which is weird.. shouldn't it be FLC error?) 3 - removed short & check filters (in and out) no change .. Circulating pump & full jets work fine but still no heat and FLASHING FLO error .. Just remember when screwing around with balboa boards and pressure switches, The Board reads Open, and closed. You can't just screw the P switch closed and expect to get heat. Make sure the switch closes when the pump is on, and opens when the pump is off. If you are trying to bypass the switch to test, you only have seconds to open and close the circut. Try pulling the filter first, anytime there is unexpected flo error. I replace elements all day long, because people run down the pressure switch to full closed. That will make it heat all day long, long after the temp has exceaded 104, and the pump has shut off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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