Keats Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 29 May 11 My Master Spa (LS850) just started to have problems. A few years ago I replaced the 50 Amp GFCI breaker for the spa that I bought new in 2001. Everything was going well until a couple days ago. The breaker tripped again and would not reset. I checked the main service panel and decided that I was going to replace the breaker (not gfci) for the Spa sub panel. No problem. I then tried to reset the spa gfci but it tripped almost instantly. I got a new GFCI breaker @ the H.D. store that was already in a "Spa Panel". That saved a lot of dough. I don't know why the breaker alone costs almost twice what it costs if it's included in a Spa Panel already?? Anyway, I replaced it and yes I know it's installed properly. I have a neutral(White) coming from the spa as well as two hots (both Black) and a Ground (Green). I ran the spa's white neutral into the GFCI and the pig tail white from the GFCI to the neutral bus bar. The Service panel neutral White is also attached to the neutral bus bar. It still tripped. So I pulled the GFCI and tried a non GFCI breaker in it's place to test the spa. The spa ran like new. I put the GFCI back in and it tripped immediately. I have to assume that there is a fault but it's not a major fault otherwise a regular breaker should trip too. So now it's into the spa's control box and inspecting for broken wires etc. Nothing wrong anywhere. I disconnected each plug from the control panel to the various motors for the pumps one at a time but it kept tripping non the less. I removed the transformer (Balboa 30270-2) and checked it for ohms. I got a good reading between the primarys (73.2 ohms) and only got 0.0 between the Brown and Red secondary contacts. They should be .4 to . 9 ohms. I got 0.1 between the Yellow and the Red and 0.1 between the Brown and Yellow contacts. They should also read .4 to .9 ohms as well. So maybe a bad transformer? I disconnected the leads going to the two heater posts and checked for continuity between the posts. Very good continuity. I checked for a short between each heater post and the control panel (they are insulated with ceramic) and got no continuity so the was nothing going to ground at the heater. I tried the breaker again with the transformer disconnected and it did NOT trip. That just means that the power going to the spa is not at fault. It has to be after it gets to the printed circuit board. I'm thinking that I should try disconnecting the heater leads and trying it that way. If it does not trip, then it's the heater element. I'm at my wits end. I can't think of anything else I could try. I really hate to call in a technician unless it's the last resort. I do not want to simply replace components till it runs again. I'm open to suggestions. Any help would be greatly appreciated... Keats Arizona Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaTechincian Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Hey Keats, I think you answered your own question in your statement. Disconnect the heater element off the circuit and see what happens. Make sure both wires are disconnected and see what happens. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keats Posted May 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Hey Keats, I think you answered your own question in your statement. Disconnect the heater element off the circuit and see what happens. Make sure both wires are disconnected and see what happens. good luck Thanks, I'm going to do that right now. I'l post my results. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the reply.. Keats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keats Posted May 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 30 May 11 Memorial Day ( Thanks to all of our Veterans for your service to our country) Hooray!!! I got it up and running. I disconnected the wires from the circuit board fingers #1&3 that run from the heater terminals and tried it again. I put my original transformer back into the box first. So I threw the breaker and sure enough the 1/15th H.P. circulating pump came on. Wow... I pushed the top control panel button for the jets and sure enough, they started right up. I tried all settings for all the pumps and each ran at low and high speed as designed. I was in heaven. Then I threw the breaker and put the control panel cover back on and threw the breaker again. Nothing happened. All I got was a message reading "Flow Sensor Call for Service". So back to the internet and I found a blog msg. that suggested disconnecting the flow sensor from the flow switch for a test. I went back to the control panel and pulled the very small two wire flow sensor connector at the circuit board. It's located at the top of the board and it's kind of tight getting my fingers in there. So I threw the GFCI breaker again and it started right up like before. I still get the Flow Sensor message, but it's running anyway. I now have time to shop around for a replacement heater. Living in Phoenix, I really don't have need for a heater until maybe October. Normally the ambient temperature causes the spa water to reach about 105/108 degrees and the cover keeps the temp in. So here's my suggestion. Do not be afraid to try the repair yourself. Just take care to always disconnect any electrical power before you open anything up. Throw the main breaker as well as the GFCI spa breaker just to be sure.. Take a lot of photos. All from various angles. That way you can get everything back to where it was to begin with. Try eliminating various functions one at a time and perhaps you'll solve it right away. Don't rely on a reading from an electrical meter. Mine did not show any problems. No shorts, or other faults but the heater was still bad enough to cause a total shut down. I suppose that disconnecting each device, IE: Pumps, light, Heater, etc. really gets to the heart of the problem. I guess that I've saved myself at least $100.00 just for a "Show Up" by a spa technician. Last time I had a tech out, he agreed with me that I do have a small leak at one of the jets (not sure which one, they're all sprayed with foam so I can't see the back of them.) and then he charged me $60.00 for the visit. He did not fix anything. All I got was an estimate of $1,000.00 to drain the spa, and turn it on it's side to allow access to all of the plumbing to see where the leak was and then a possible additional charge for any parts I might need. Of course this included putting it back in place. It's less expensive to just add water as needed for now... I hope that this message helps someone else in the future and when I replace the heater, I'll post again. Keats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edmund Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 My hot tub breaker tripped. This has happened before. So I disconnected the heater from unit. It started up fine. As before I ordered a replacement Heater and installed it. BUT once I turned on breaker it ran for a few seconds and then the breaker tripped. I disconnected the NEW heater and it started fine. Any suggestions? Maybe I received a faulty replacement heater? Or what if there is a lot of crap in the water? While waiting for the heater to be delivered the tub was exposed to cold weather here in NJ and crystal like partials (not ice) formed throughout the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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