7808 Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 i just replaced my gecko spa pack with a used working one with the same model # but differnt "option" numbers, my original spa pack was setup for 240v blower but had pinouts on the diagram for 240 and 120, the replacment spapack i got is setup for a 120v blower only and does not have pinouts on the diagram for 240v. i was going to use the 120v blower output from the spapack to trigger a relay to switch 240v to the blower in my tub, looking at the diagram for the 240v blower confused me though, it only has 3 wires, hot, neutral, and ground. i guess ive never wired anything that was 240v and only had 1 hot wire. can i really just "twist together" two hot wires and make 240v?? i was also wondering if anyone knows, if i can just plug a different smaller style control panel into a same spapack control board? or if i need to swap the eeprom for it to work correctly? my new used spapack came with a larger control panel that doesnt fit the hole already in my tub without cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Spa Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 IF the blower really is 220v, you have wires that are hot hot ground (it's not uncommon for a blower that's prewired with a cord to use the white wire for the second hot leg). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaiSTi Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 (edited) Can you take a picture of the PCB? I want to see if you have extra pins to tap in for 220V. Sometimes the EPROMS can be swapped and work fine. But not going to know until your try it. Edited May 11, 2011 by ChaiSTi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7808 Posted May 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 i got these pictures, when i get home i can take some of the actual pcb's new used spapack, see only 120v blower pinout spapack that came in my tub, see 120/240 pinouts, 240v is marked the blower- see model number has 240 in it and the diagram from the original spapack was marked 240, so im pretty sure its 240v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7808 Posted May 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 IF the blower really is 220v, you have wires that are hot hot ground (it's not uncommon for a blower that's prewired with a cord to use the white wire for the second hot leg). didnt know that, can i continuity test the white wire then and it shouldnt show ground to the motor case anywhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaTechincian Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 You need to move your white wire over to the 220 side. If you look on the schematics it shows you where the white for the 220 pumps go, and there should be a small cluster of spade connectors around it that will be producing 220v between your white and black. Or if you don't have a pump#2 you can use connector P17. What I would do first is use your volt meter press the button to engage the blower, (leave the blower unplugged)test the voltage between P17 (if available) and P16 (your black)and see what the voltage is? if its 220V then great now press the blower button again and see what the voltage is, if its 0V (could be 60V and under as there might be a snubber on the blower relay, I know gecko uses it on the pump relays not sure about the blower relays tho), if its 0V then there you go your set up. If that doesn't work email me back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7808 Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 so your saying pump #2 output might also switch on when the blower is turned on from the keypad, so i could use that to power my blower? ill mess around with my meter when i get home im actually suprised how much air comes out the jets with the blower not even running, must be a good venturi effect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaTechincian Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 so your saying pump #2 output might also switch on when the blower is turned on from the keypad, so i could use that to power my blower? ill mess around with my meter when i get home im actually suprised how much air comes out the jets with the blower not even running, must be a good venturi effect No. Think of it this way, your black is producing 120V and your white wire is producing 120V and together you get 240V. This is when the white wire is hooked in the 240V spade cluster (also know as your red AC, easier to explain on a balboa system as oppose to gecko). There should be extra spades right around where your white wires for your pumps hook on. On a gecko Sspa (the new/used one you installed)four button topside you should press the pump#2 a second time and that should engage the blower, make sure the jumper is in the right spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7808 Posted May 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 so your saying pump #2 output might also switch on when the blower is turned on from the keypad, so i could use that to power my blower? ill mess around with my meter when i get home im actually suprised how much air comes out the jets with the blower not even running, must be a good venturi effect No. Think of it this way, your black is producing 120V and your white wire is producing 120V and together you get 240V. This is when the white wire is hooked in the 240V spade cluster (also know as your red AC, easier to explain on a balboa system as oppose to gecko). There should be extra spades right around where your white wires for your pumps hook on. On a gecko Sspa (the new/used one you installed)four button topside you should press the pump#2 a second time and that should engage the blower, make sure the jumper is in the right spot. think i get what your saying, basicly use the pump #2 to switch the blower, but i dont think my keypad has a second pump button? i think its a tsc-8 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 That's not what he means. Of the two 120 lines that make 240 together: One of them is switched- it is energized when the air blower is energized. The other is always on. As long as the circuit is not completed, the 220v air blower, under normal circumstances, always has the 120 volts there, but is off, as the circuit is not completed. As soon as you hit the air blower button, the circuit is completed, it get's 220v, and viola, the air blower comes on. What he's saying is to remove the neutral wire from wherever it is, and find a terminal that's the "other" hot lead. The pump will use the same lead. It too has a "common" wire that's always hot. In other words, move the white wire from P9 to P17. Leave the black wire on P-16. The air blower should work normally, using the same buttons to operate it always has. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaiSTi Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 If you're using the blower connectors, move the white wire from P35 to P36. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 If you're using the blower connectors, move the white wire from P35 to P36. That's his old control box, and that's how it *was* wired. Look at his new control box (the other pic) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaiSTi Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Oops! Yeah, my bad... If you don't have a pump 2 to utilize, then yeah like everyone said P9 to P17. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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