checkmate1996 Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Folks, this is my first official post. This looks like a good forum so I am hoping one of the experts can help. I do appreciate any and all feedback. I had a HT repair guy come and and he just started telling me the world was going to end with my whole ht and it's not worth replacing and better off just buying one his preferred news ones for a low, low price of $6995!!! haha So, I finally said, "What would it cost to getRgoin'?" He pulled his calculator and started thinking in his head and then said," well you'll need one of these, those, that, etc"...we can get you going for oh....(after punching some numbers on the calculator again) $1900 plus tax..." I about fell over...Any way I told him I would get back with him real soon.... That being said, here is my issue. I have a 2003 Bullfrog Spa and has been running great until about month ago. The top side control unit reports 64 degrees and it feels 64 degrees! I am new to hot tub troubleshooting but not electronics and/or mechanical stuff as I work on cars and build computers as other hobbies...(I need the HT to relax afterwards!) So what I'm looking for is the most probable cause and/or troubleshooting tests to determine root cause. (I have some nice high-end multimeters to measure resistance and continuity so that shouldn't be an issue; just need some guidance on where to go on the board) Here's what I do know: the circulation pump appears to be working all jets work fine no obvious burns on the circuit board no obvious broken wires no leaks - everything is bone dry top side panel works great - all functions/buttons work 50 Amp unit here's what I have for the guts: Heater element is the more common - Balboa 5.5kw 240v 15" 2x2 M7 model#58000 Control Unit - Balboa - Whm-Std05-CCAH - 2003 2 Pump 50 Amp What say ye? Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfunke Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 I've never had a Bullfrog but if I recall from a friend's spa the control unit was Bullfrog proprietary unit made by Balboa. Take a look at balboawatergroup.com and download their troubleshooting manuals. You might also give them a call and talk to a service rep. Hopefully it's just a sensor or a replaceable componenet on the MB. Worst case you could install one of their VS series retrofit kits which run $400-600. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Even Further Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 I recently got a 01 Coast Spa, w/ Gecko control pack. It had a no heat problem, when everything else was working fine. After a little research I found out the 3 flashing dots on the display was a trouble code, how to test power to the heater element, and how the pressure switch relates to the heater. The heater element tested zero voltage between the 2 posts, so no power to the element was found. I could also see that the pressure switch was bad because it had a slight weeping leak, and it was all rusted out around the edge due to the leak. After learning a bad switch is also very common for no heat issues, I replaced and it works fine. I also called a Coast dealer/service center and they were helpful too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
checkmate1996 Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 I recently got a 01 Coast Spa, w/ Gecko control pack. It had a no heat problem, when everything else was working fine. After a little research I found out the 3 flashing dots on the display was a trouble code, how to test power to the heater element, and how the pressure switch relates to the heater. The heater element tested zero voltage between the 2 posts, so no power to the element was found. I could also see that the pressure switch was bad because it had a slight weeping leak, and it was all rusted out around the edge due to the leak. After learning a bad switch is also very common for no heat issues, I replaced and it works fine. I also called a Coast dealer/service center and they were helpful too. Thanks for the responses. I just tested the voltage between the two heater element posts and got 0 volts. However, if I the indivuals post and to ground it was getting the correct voltage. I think I'm just going to replace the entire heater element and sensors as it seems to be not that much more money to do so. Hopefully, that will be the root cause... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1oty Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 I recently got a 01 Coast Spa, w/ Gecko control pack. It had a no heat problem, when everything else was working fine. After a little research I found out the 3 flashing dots on the display was a trouble code, how to test power to the heater element, and how the pressure switch relates to the heater. The heater element tested zero voltage between the 2 posts, so no power to the element was found. I could also see that the pressure switch was bad because it had a slight weeping leak, and it was all rusted out around the edge due to the leak. After learning a bad switch is also very common for no heat issues, I replaced and it works fine. I also called a Coast dealer/service center and they were helpful too. Thanks for the responses. I just tested the voltage between the two heater element posts and got 0 volts. However, if I the indivuals post and to ground it was getting the correct voltage. I think I'm just going to replace the entire heater element and sensors as it seems to be not that much more money to do so. Hopefully, that will be the root cause... That won't work. 0 volts across the cold pins does not mean the element is bad. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Even Further Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 Just to be 100% clear, I only replaced the bad pressure switch. It was about 40 bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
checkmate1996 Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 That won't work. 0 volts across the cold pins does not mean the element is bad. John What would it mean or did I test something wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 id recommend switching the sensor plugs around to see if you get a different reading. For the heater you need to to turn off the power, disconnect the leads from the board & check the element for continuity with your multimeter(im sure you're familiar with how to do that) If all reads well with your heater then no need to replace. Im gonna guess the relay on the board is toast if your temp set is proper & your sensors are reading the correct temp. @evenfurther this pack is an M7 which does not have a pressure switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
checkmate1996 Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 id recommend switching the sensor plugs around to see if you get a different reading. For the heater you need to to turn off the power, disconnect the leads from the board & check the element for continuity with your multimeter(im sure you're familiar with how to do that) If all reads well with your heater then no need to replace. Im gonna guess the relay on the board is toast if your temp set is proper & your sensors are reading the correct temp. @evenfurther this pack is an M7 which does not have a pressure switch Well I don't think it's the heater, continuty check -- checked out! Now on to the circuit board... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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