$4,000 Gulf Coast Spa Lx-7000 Owners Log

[GKL]

I'm not going to go into detail about the make-up of this spa for that go to:

www.gulfcoastspas.com

Purchaser LX-7000 from warehouse dealer 12/22/2006 for $4,000 + $300 delivery & $200 sales tax,

Dealer called to deliver 1/4/2007. Dealer agreed to hold until I was ready, delay due to wet yard conditions.

Dealer did not cash check until 1/10/2007.

Delivery and placement on my patio in back yard was perfect on 1/17/2007.

1/18/2007 I wired the tub. Thought there could have been a pre installed access area or conduit but as explained by the 24/7 service hot line "not everyone wants the same access location" access can be anywhere from bottom, side skirting or thru toe kick that is part of the one piece solid .25mm ASB base. I chose the toe kick. The internal electric box was easy to access and came with a cable/wire box clamp. The box much like my GFCI box has a 4-prong plug for the spa pack. I unplugged it, removed the cover plate and connected my 6 gauge 3 wire + G cable just like wiring a duplex outlet in the house (only with MONSTER wire) replaced the cover and turned on the power. Turned it off quickly and began adding water.

Filling thru the filter area (filters not yet installed) I thought might prime the pump. Filling took about 2 hours. Once filled I had to loosen the union on the pump to allow trapped air to escape the line to prime the pump. No water escaped so if any water is detected I didn't cause it and will then look for another source.

I had an initial concern that the pump would not shut off, it would run on low and then pressing the control go to high, when pressing control again it would go to low and so on. I later learned via the manual that until the water reaches the thermostat setting the pump and heater would run at low speed and will allow the high speed but NOT turn off. This has to do with the freeze safe mode.

Initially the light was working fine but now is not. The control panel shows the "light on" when the switch is activated and off when pushed again. My call to the 24/7 service told me to check the plug-in wiring at the light, which may have lost connection (a job for tomorrow).

All water jets are chrome in appearance, not metal but some form of plastic.

Cabinet/skirting is EON (brand) Mahogany synthetic with 4 removable panels, each held in place at the top by the tub lip and at the bottom with 2- 2 1/2" (drywall type) screws. Molding strips 2' wide cover where panels meet curved corners and are secured with 3 of the same screws. I would like to see a better way of securing these panels for ease of access only.

Insulation: The tub is sprayed as is the inside bottom with High-density foam. This insulation was applied before plumbing, wiring etc was installed making a nicer appearance and I’m sure easier to see leaks or make any repairs. The entire perimeter of the tub has a "bubble wrap" material with double sided foil stapled in overlapping "panels" that are easily removed. Each removable access panel has 3/4" styro foam insulation boards attached to the backside. The cover is 5" tapered with locks and attached "filler" pieces to prevent heat loss at the fold.

The water temperature is rising about 5 degrees per hour, with an outside temperature of 34 and dropping. I'm heating to 90 degrees over night and will check before noon.

GREG!

[GKL]

I'm not going to go into detail about the make-up of this spa for that go to:

www.gulfcoastspas.com

Purchaser LX-7000 from warehouse dealer 12/22/2006 for $4,000 + $300 delivery & $200 sales tax,

Dealer called to deliver 1/4/2007. Dealer agreed to hold until I was ready, delay due to wet yard conditions.

Dealer did not cash check until 1/10/2007.

Delivery and placement on my patio in back yard was perfect on 1/17/2007.

1/18/2007 I wired the tub. Thought there could have been a pre installed access area or conduit but as explained by the 24/7 service hot line "not everyone wants the same access location" access can be anywhere from bottom, side skirting or thru toe kick that is part of the one piece solid .25mm ASB base. I chose the toe kick. The internal electric box was easy to access and came with a cable/wire box clamp. The box much like my GFCI box has a 4-prong plug for the spa pack. I unplugged it, removed the cover plate and connected my 6 gauge 3 wire + G cable just like wiring a duplex outlet in the house (only with MONSTER wire) replaced the cover and turned on the power. Turned it off quickly and began adding water.

Filling thru the filter area (filters not yet installed) I thought might prime the pump. Filling took about 2 hours. Once filled I had to loosen the union on the pump to allow trapped air to escape the line to prime the pump. No water escaped so if any water is detected I didn't cause it and will then look for another source.

I had an initial concern that the pump would not shut off, it would run on low and then pressing the control go to high, when pressing control again it would go to low and so on. I later learned via the manual that until the water reaches the thermostat setting the pump and heater would run at low speed and will allow the high speed but NOT turn off. This has to do with the freeze safe mode.

Initially the light was working fine but now is not. The control panel shows the "light on" when the switch is activated and off when pushed again. My call to the 24/7 service told me to check the plug-in wiring at the light, which may have lost connection (a job for tomorrow).

All water jets are chrome in appearance, not metal but some form of plastic.

Cabinet/skirting is EON (brand) Mahogany synthetic with 4 removable panels, each held in place at the top by the tub lip and at the bottom with 2- 2 1/2" (drywall type) screws. Molding strips 2' wide cover where panels meet curved corners and are secured with 3 of the same screws. I would like to see a better way of securing these panels for ease of access only.

Insulation: The tub is sprayed as is the inside bottom with High-density foam. This insulation was applied before plumbing, wiring etc was installed making a nicer appearance and I’m sure easier to see leaks or make any repairs. The entire perimeter of the tub has a "bubble wrap" material with double sided foil stapled in overlapping "panels" that are easily removed. Each removable access panel has 3/4" styro foam insulation boards attached to the backside. The cover is 5" tapered with locks and attached "filler" pieces to prevent heat loss at the fold.

The water temperature is rising about 5 degrees per hour, with an outside temperature of 34 and dropping. I'm heating to 90 degrees over night and will check before noon.

GREG!

DAY 2

Everything seams to be working perfectly, heating properly, pump cycling on schedule.

Didn’t look at light… tomorrow.

Around noon with water temp at 90 degrees:

Added 4oz AquaClara Pure Sustain to 350 gal. (Directions recommend 8 oz for 550 gal)

1 oz AquaClara Enzyme filter boost (recommended dosage)

2 Tabs AquaClara (bromine sanitizer) in filter area

Activated pump to high (auto shut down after 20 minutes) and raised temp to 95

About 3pm activated pump to high, raised temp to 99

First dip was about 9pm. Pump was in auto filter mode until 10PM (as was I) when it cycled off.

Not quit as happy as I thought. Seating, jet pressure and water circulation were all-good. My only concern is even with my water slightly higher than it should be I would like to have more depth or higher water level when sitting in the seats. The contoured lounger gives me the desired water level missing from the std. seats and holds me in nicely even with water & air jets on full (I floated out of my old lounger). Being 5’10” I can lounge nicely with jets on desired areas as could someone 6’10”.

One whirly jet seams to be stuck, but all others seam to be fine.

Nice to be able to control each individual jet (on/off), bubbler jets works a lot nicer and than my last tub (simple had holes drilled in the seats) and the warm air is a pleasure and energy saver (not cooling down tub water)