GKL

YES, I've wsed it since Dec '06 when I first filled, I am just getting ready to dump & refill after 7 months. Water has been nicely balanced, clear and I have not developed any "itch" or infections as many on here proclaim, I use the tub avg 5-6 times a week for 20-45 minutes each soak. My longer stay is due to the tub temp at 99 degrees vs 103+. I even cut the ensyme dose in half (used the bottle for 2 filter changes) I believe you can also purchase at ebay.

Hey Trigger, Jim has been the only one to post anything with regards to my question. You only used it as a means to get your dig in at JIM and still did not answer the topic question. SO, THANK YOU JIM. GREG!

Are the jets producing water? If so your pump is primed. I can't imagine how the temp. would get to the desired setting if water wasn't passing thru the heater EXCEPT "the setting" does not show the water temp. in ALL spas, this might be your DESIRED setting you are reading NOT the water temp. (Tried feeling the water?) The good thing is that if water isn't passing thru the heater (pump not primed) the heater SHOULD not be staying ON which would burn it out, however depending how long you are leaving the pump motor "run" might damage the PUMP unit. If water is flowing from all of the tub jets, try cycling the motor between speeds OFF, LOW, HIGH. If water is not coming from the jets, shut the power off and open the panel closest to the pump. Then loosen the union/fitting (big nut on top of the pump motor about 3-4" in diameter) about 1/4 of a turn or until you hear air escaping, then a few drops of water. Tighten down securely and RE-BOOT & re program spa pac as below. Cut the power from the GFCI/ circuit breaker and wait 5 minutes and (re boot) turn power back on, re-program the spa pac for time, filtration time, desired water temp. and duration of filtration. Make sure it is actually running ALL the time and not JUST WHEN YOU GO LOOK AT IT. Also, be sure all of the shell covers are back in place. There are alot of posters smarter than me on here but since I didn't see any one giving any definitive help I thru in my thoughts- GOOD LUCK. Let us know what you find. GREG!

I've not seen any discussion (here) on the methods used in cleaning of spa filters? I just changed mine out with new and wanted to know if the use of any special cleaner is worth the cost, or is there a more economical solution. (Muriatic acid?) If there is a good product, please post and suggest a location to purchase. Also is it a good idea to keep the ones I just took out soaking in water or other solution? GREG!

I've been cautioned to remove any added insulation in the summer months to prevent heat build-up and possible damage to the pump motors. GREG! I've been cautioned to remove any added insulation in the summer months to prevent heat build-up and possible damage to the pump motors. GREG!

I too was planning to add insullation but first I decided to monitor the temperature outside the tub and inside. I have found that the inside stays at 40-50 degrees above the inside. In talking with the service dept at GCS about the frequency in which the spa pack runs a temp test of the water its hourly for 3 minutes. If the water temp has dropped the heater kicks in to heat to temp setting. With the pump running hourly for 3 minutes plus the regular filter cycle-do the math. Electrical consumption may be coming from the pre-programed cycling of the pump. I've cut my filtering down to 1 hour 2 times a day and water is fine. A nother alternative would be to install a 240V timer to limit the number of hourly programed temp checks. The only problem is the spa pack re-sets to 95degrees each time electrical current is cut off. Also the service dept cautioned me about adding insullation in that it should be removed in the summer to prevent high temps that could limit the life of the motors. GREG!

Gulf Coast Spas have (and I guess other manufactures have the same) a winter freeze sensor. If the temp. falls below 41 or 45 deg. inside the cabinet the spa pac will cycle on every hour for a 24 hour cycle to monitor the water temp causing the pump to run for 15-20 minutes each hour. So if the temp doesnt change inside the cabinet the winter freeze cycle will continue. I've asked GC service about changing the temp and they said they thought it was not changable. I did speak with Ken S from Tatum a few weeks ago and I thought for sure HE said the temp could be changed. I've been planning on putting a dual thermometer to measure high & low temps in cab & outside but guess I'm waiting for warmer weather or my 1st bill. If the spa is getting below 41-45 deg. under the cabinet with all the heat generating stuff under there then it clearly isn't insullated well or there is a hole some where letting cold in & hot out. I've been keeping mine at 99 so I can stay init for 1-2 hours and with 20-25 degree weather, cover off temp might drop 1-2 degrees and usually doesn't kick on unless it drops 3 degrees. Heated up about 4-5 degrees per hour on initial fill w/ 55 degree water 350 gallons with cover off.

Hey Smilinbare, take it like A MAN. If you screw up let ALL know, you might save someone else some trouble down the road. I've not seen anyone being put down for being honest in their efforts for knowledge. There do appear to be some that are hard headed and not willing to admit their F--- UP's. BE A MAN, no body is going to hit you. GREG!

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r261/gr...terSPA/Tub1.jpg http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r261/gr...terSPA/Tub2.jpg http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r261/gr...PA/TunUnder.jpg http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r261/gr...erSPA/Steam.jpg http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r261/gr...PA/Downshot.jpg

I was going with the traditional Bromine then found several good posts about ecoONE on here. Natural enzymes with small amount of bromine, longer life of water, less bounce in chemicals and easy maintenance. Turns out that the start-up kit that came w/ my spa is the same thing, just marketed under a different name. Check out some of the post.. key in "ecoone"

DAY 2 Everything seams to be working perfectly, heating properly, pump cycling on schedule. Didn’t look at light… tomorrow. Around noon with water temp at 90 degrees: Added 4oz AquaClara Pure Sustain to 350 gal. (Directions recommend 8 oz for 550 gal) 1 oz AquaClara Enzyme filter boost (recommended dosage) 2 Tabs AquaClara (bromine sanitizer) in filter area Activated pump to high (auto shut down after 20 minutes) and raised temp to 95 About 3pm activated pump to high, raised temp to 99 First dip was about 9pm. Pump was in auto filter mode until 10PM (as was I) when it cycled off. Not quit as happy as I thought. Seating, jet pressure and water circulation were all-good. My only concern is even with my water slightly higher than it should be I would like to have more depth or higher water level when sitting in the seats. The contoured lounger gives me the desired water level missing from the std. seats and holds me in nicely even with water & air jets on full (I floated out of my old lounger). Being 5’10” I can lounge nicely with jets on desired areas as could someone 6’10”. One whirly jet seams to be stuck, but all others seam to be fine. Nice to be able to control each individual jet (on/off), bubbler jets works a lot nicer and than my last tub (simple had holes drilled in the seats) and the warm air is a pleasure and energy saver (not cooling down tub water)

I'm not going to go into detail about the make-up of this spa for that go to: www.gulfcoastspas.com Purchaser LX-7000 from warehouse dealer 12/22/2006 for $4,000 + $300 delivery & $200 sales tax, Dealer called to deliver 1/4/2007. Dealer agreed to hold until I was ready, delay due to wet yard conditions. Dealer did not cash check until 1/10/2007. Delivery and placement on my patio in back yard was perfect on 1/17/2007. 1/18/2007 I wired the tub. Thought there could have been a pre installed access area or conduit but as explained by the 24/7 service hot line "not everyone wants the same access location" access can be anywhere from bottom, side skirting or thru toe kick that is part of the one piece solid .25mm ASB base. I chose the toe kick. The internal electric box was easy to access and came with a cable/wire box clamp. The box much like my GFCI box has a 4-prong plug for the spa pack. I unplugged it, removed the cover plate and connected my 6 gauge 3 wire + G cable just like wiring a duplex outlet in the house (only with MONSTER wire) replaced the cover and turned on the power. Turned it off quickly and began adding water. Filling thru the filter area (filters not yet installed) I thought might prime the pump. Filling took about 2 hours. Once filled I had to loosen the union on the pump to allow trapped air to escape the line to prime the pump. No water escaped so if any water is detected I didn't cause it and will then look for another source. I had an initial concern that the pump would not shut off, it would run on low and then pressing the control go to high, when pressing control again it would go to low and so on. I later learned via the manual that until the water reaches the thermostat setting the pump and heater would run at low speed and will allow the high speed but NOT turn off. This has to do with the freeze safe mode. Initially the light was working fine but now is not. The control panel shows the "light on" when the switch is activated and off when pushed again. My call to the 24/7 service told me to check the plug-in wiring at the light, which may have lost connection (a job for tomorrow). All water jets are chrome in appearance, not metal but some form of plastic. Cabinet/skirting is EON (brand) Mahogany synthetic with 4 removable panels, each held in place at the top by the tub lip and at the bottom with 2- 2 1/2" (drywall type) screws. Molding strips 2' wide cover where panels meet curved corners and are secured with 3 of the same screws. I would like to see a better way of securing these panels for ease of access only. Insulation: The tub is sprayed as is the inside bottom with High-density foam. This insulation was applied before plumbing, wiring etc was installed making a nicer appearance and I’m sure easier to see leaks or make any repairs. The entire perimeter of the tub has a "bubble wrap" material with double sided foil stapled in overlapping "panels" that are easily removed. Each removable access panel has 3/4" styro foam insulation boards attached to the backside. The cover is 5" tapered with locks and attached "filler" pieces to prevent heat loss at the fold. The water temperature is rising about 5 degrees per hour, with an outside temperature of 34 and dropping. I'm heating to 90 degrees over night and will check before noon. GREG!

TATUM will manufacture for YOU under YOUR label/name. You have to agree to buy a minimum of 1000-1500 spas a year. BUT SERIOUSLY, look at the specs & designs to find the same spa BUT with a different name being sold by a different "manufacturer". Go to Gulf coast spa web site they have retail prices. I bought the LX-7000 for $4,000.00 + $200.00 sales tax + $300.00 delivery on my patio in my back yard. Included cover, chemicals and all the standard stuff on the web site. If you can deal direct with Tatum Ken Sorenson is a VP there 813-840-3151 X 6347 but if not go to Mike Mello at Gulf Coast 727-572-7727 X 5360. BOTH companies are owned by the same person, I've forgotten his name but if you go to the BBB you can get it there. If either of these companies are selling from "the factory" I would say you would have to get a better than I did, after all they don't have to ship it and won't mark-up for dealer profit. PLEASE, let me know HERE or send me a direct email (get it from my ID)

FROM WHAT I HAVE BEEN TOLD (or SOLD) THESE "LX-series" spas are totally new, so I'm going to try to document what ever I can about "MY EXPERIENCE" with this "NEW" series spa. SO............ I took delivery on my LX7000 TODAY. I had the dealer hold it for 2 weeks thinking my yard was too wet and something would go wrong. Two MEN (not boys) and a seamingly a light weight & small trailer, hand wheeled it some 150 feet from my street around to my patio behind my house. The spa was perfectly balanced on the trailer so they didn't fight the weight, just needed to keep on moving. My yard slopes and with the ground being wet (standing water) and 37 degrees (reasonably cold for Baltimore) these guys did an excellent job. Once at my patio they used 4' PVC pipe to easily get it to the exact position. On of the big issues in transporting this spa was to keep it flat (not to turn it on its side like "other" spas are shipped on pallets. Gulf Coast (TATUM Mfg) make a big deal about how ALL their spas are never turned on their side. Final electrical hook-up should be tomorrow and my daily log of repairs/problems/energy consumption will begin. I will monitor tub water temp along with a thermometer to measure the high and low temp just outside the tub and within the skirting (opposite side from the spa pack) to address the concern about insullation. My original plan was NOT to use the AquaClara water system but have since found out that it is manufactured by the same company as ecoONE. There have been recent posts about this enzyme system that show remarkable results with bather load of 3 x A DAY 7 days a week and water changes only every 6 to 9 months! Easy to maintain PH 7.2-8.2, TA 80-120 ppm, and Calcium 150-400 ppm. It comes with a filter to attach to hose for filling to demineralize fill water. Maintenance is: weekly add 1-2 bromine tabs in filter area and monthly adding 8oz "Sustain" & 2 caps full of Enzyme. The natural mineral softners allow a wider range on PH & Calcium. WE SHALL SEE?

Thanks I appreciate the follow up and look forward to how installation of insullation goes. One thing I've been told is not to completly seal the cavity, the motors need air flow for cooling and sealing completly could also cause condensation to form between the tub & skirting. GREG!

After looking at the link for ecoONE I compared it to the AquaClara product from Gulf Coast Spas (TATUM MFG) and the verbage is almost IDENTICAL! I compared all of the enzymes use by both and found them to be IDENTICAL. Previously, I had requested the corporate officers of GCS & Tatum to tell who was the manufacturer and what other label was this product being sold under.... NOW I have emailed them ecoONE info and requested a responce. Having been from the old school of Bormine (per ozonators) I was leary of using something that sounded like more work and cost. I'm now probably going to try the "system" of AquaClara that comes with my spa. I would provide a link to the company but there is very little there other than pricing. I had to get the corporate VP to send me a PDF owners manual for the AquaClara System so I could see speciffically what was in it and how it works and I WAS still leary. Hope I get as good results as posted above. GREG!

Would they be manufactured by TATUM MFG ? or the sister company GULF COAST SPAs ?

I'm just waiting for my yard to dry out so it can be delivered. I appreciate all of your imput and you are correct about buying and being pleased with the purchase. I have gotten to the point where I feel I'm an investigative reported for these things. ALL -IN-ALL, I just want to not have any problems, ease of care & reasonable energy costs. At least as I recall thats how my last spa was 15 years ago- so I figure technology has had to improved. No I did not wet test. Having owned a tub before I did dry test by judged water depth, jet positioning and contour of seating. Originally I was opposed to a lounger (again) but did get it due to the contour jet locations and belief that I won't float out as I did in the old spa. The older spas were not very user friendly. My filter was under the cabinet and I had to use a wrench to change it, NO Ozonator, no lift for the cover, I think I may have had to boil the water. Anyway, I'm real hopeful that with all the conviences the new spas have that I'll get years of enjoyment and theropy and if it becomes a yard orniment it might just end up in the dealers window. GREG!

http://hottubin.spaces.live.com/ Please post your personal experiences with any 2006 or newer Gulf Coast spa LX SERIES unit at the above site. I want to hold GC to their word or put them on the carpet. THANKS, GREG!

http://hottubin.spaces.live.com/ Please post your personal experiences with any 2006 or newer Gulf Coast spa LX SERIES unit at the above site. I want to hold GC to their word or put them on the carpet. THANKS, GREG!

Has anyone had any experience using GULF COAST SPAS "AquaClara Natural Spa Treatment System" with an ozonator? View it here: http://209.31.188.126/store/showprods.asp?...er%20Management Is there an alternate brand that might be cheaper? Is ALL this stuff necessary? What chemical base is used (bromine, chlorine other)? How long have you been using it? Has it performed well? Tried any other "system" OR chemical? How do you feel the cost is compared to "other" treatments you have tried? Has your spa suffered any problems YOU might associate with using this AQUACLARA SYSTEM? If you have a GULF COAST "DX series" SPA purchased in the year 2006 how's it going; repairs, energy costs, or any other comments? Thanks, GREG! This link should work: http://209.31.188.126/store/showprods.asp?...er%20Management OK LAST TRY ON THE LINK: http://209.31.188.126/store/showprods.asp?...er%20Management

I couldn't agree with you more. I'm sure thats why they (GC) sell their spas at 50-60% below "true dealer" spas. Personally, I like being able to call a tech that will walk me thru to determine the problem and then fed-ex me the part in 2-3 days if nexessary. I've never had to have my prior spa serviced but would assume it would go something like "Call dealer, then in 3-5 business days (8am-5pm M-F) a tech shows up to diagnose the problem, tech has to get dealer authorization to order the parts, dealer waits to get parts then calls the customer so he can call the tech to re-schedule to come out to make the repair (3-5 business days 8am-5pm M-F)". I hope there are many that have ALWAYS had service THAT DAY and at the time THEY wanted, without having to take off work. I realize there are alot of people that "can't change a spa filter" and they need a good service department that would be responsible to that spa retailer and certified as a sps tech (if such a certification exists) as opposed to some monkey that shows up and does more harm than good, having no more cares about repairing the spa for THAT customer than and appliance repairman you called out of the phone book. If I am unable to OR want a tech to make the repairs, there is a $50 service charge. Let me ask you SPATEC, (not knowing you, I assume you are a "spa tech") havn't you met some tech's you wouldn't want working on YOUR spa?? I also assume you do your own repairs on your spa. What would you do if after purchasing YOUR "new spa" the dealer OR manufacture said, "the warranty will be VOID if YOU perform any work on the spa beyond changing the filters" and had to let "some monkey" come out in 3-5 business days 8am-5pm M-F to "look at" your spa? I like and WANT the chance to keep my spa up & running and not have to rely on when the tech can get to me, especially if its a quick, dump fix and if it goes beyond MY ability then I have the option to have a tech make the repair. How many times have "repair calls" where the spa is down, turned out to be "something stupid"? (lose: union, wire, breaker tripped) I really would like some of the owners of Tatum manufactured (not HYDRO) spas reply to how the service, reliability and energency efficiency of the 2006 Gulf Coast Spa is doing. Just BY-THE-BY SPATEC, did you attend the 2006 spa convention in Las Vegas?? If so then you can confirm that Tatum/Gulf Coast won awards for inovation and newest design features to the industry.

How many other manufacturers can you call on 800 number and get a tech. that has had to receive atleast some of the world wide calls from tub owners? If an owner of a D1, Hot Springs etc has a problem how many dealers get the call and handel it w/o going to corporate. I can't beleive that 1% is ALL the problems, maybe these are the ones that they are required to send a tech. or the ones they need to send parts out for the owner to make the repairs?? What kind of stats are reported for ANY spa? Shame consumer Reports doesn't test spas like appliances? But from what I'm learning there seem to be MORE spa manufactures & varions models that its a wonder more than 3 people own the same spa. It seems I'm getting more & more anxious to start TESTING my spa than using it. GREG!

Yesterday I spoke with the VP of Tatum Manufacturing (www.tatummanufacturing.com) who are the actual manufactures of Gulf Coast Spas for the last year. Everything about the LXseries at GC has changed. Prior to 2006 GC was Hydrospas. I specifically asked about adding insullation to the LX series and was told its not necessary and by adding and sealing any air leaks beyond what has been done could damage the spa via lack of air to cool the motors OR cause condensation to form inside between the cavity of the tub & skirtting. GC or Tatum is using Dell Ozonator and "GECKO" IN.XM spa pack platform, heater and controls(http://www.aeware.ca/#SlideFrame_2) In the lower end (DX and below) the Balboa electronice and traditional spa pacs are still being used Does anyone know anything about this stuff? Tatum & GC tell me at the SPA show in Las Vegas this was the latest and newest thing and won awards there at the show??? I was also told I could have my own spa line built with "my private label" by ordering 1,000-1,500 spas, I guess this is what Costco has been able to do. Of the 10,000 spas sold by Tatum in 2006 only 1% had a problem.

Keep in mind the cost of a proper pad to sit it on and 220 electrical connection. These 2 items will cost you$800-$1500 plus the costs to move it from the sellers house to yours.