Reconfigure Pvc Setup

[24k]

current setup:

thought about reversing the orientation of the pump to get away from the wall, but will consider anything else that makes sense. Old pump/strainer is 25" new pump/strainer will be 34 1/4" and will not fit between wall and current inlet. -24K

[Pool Clown]

Rotate the pump 90 degrees clockwise and slide it back to 90 over to the suction side valve.

If you move it at all. Might be ok the way it sits now...

[24k]

Rotate the pump 90 degrees clockwise and slide it back to 90 over to the suction side valve.

If you move it at all. Might be ok the way it sits now...

OK, you're saying to introduce a 90-degree elbow between the side valve currently in use and the intake on the new pump that's now turned with the intake pointing toward the filter tank. right? If this is the case, then I have only one possible concern: slowing down the flow at the intake. Here are the specs in play, let me know if my fears are unfounded given this setup:

> All pool returns are 1.5" pipe, including skimmer basket runs of 25' and 35' with the main drain line running around 50' (depth at main drain of 6'). Jandy recommends 2" pipe for runs of 0-50'.

> Intake valve on ePump is 2.5" diameter. Guess I'll need to step it down twice unless I can use the outside (grey)portion of the Jandy suction valve that still has remnanants of the original pipe running around 3/4 of its circumference (any pointers on chipping this off without further damage to valve would be appreciated).

The reasons why I don't think the current orientation will work are twofold: (1) I don't have 9 1/4" between the wall and the current pump and there's no space on the intake side for a coupler, let alone a threaded union; (2) The electrical hookups on the ePump are in the very back, with no top or side access from what I can see in the schematics.

I really appreciate your help with these issues, as well as the advice on the location of the remote control. -24K

[simple]

If it were me, I would dig out around the suction pipes, double 45 them out to get your distance (expansion plugs for pipes in pool), be sure and move at least 11", you'll wind up flipping that 45 on the discharge side. If that joint gives you any problems,(it doesn't look like you have enough room to cut the pipe inbetween the male and Jandy. Replace with a sch80 tbe nipple, cut that male right in half (across the pipe parallel with pump lid handle) and you can chip and peel the half of the male that is left on the pipe to give you enough room for a coupling that the tbe nipple will seat into. Use the other half of the tbe for the top of the pump. Is the equip on dirt or is there a pad under there. Consider that adding a 90 is equal to 9' of pipe (for 2"). Recommendation is 6"+ of pipe between face of pump and Jandy but you can get away with 4". If no luck with the male (pipe breaks inside or close to Jandy) you can always use a 2 1/2" coup and 2 1/2 x 2" RB.

[simple]

I just read that there are pieces left on the first Jandy, I can walk you through removing that if you would like. Post a pic of a close up of that if you can. Another out is to 45 that pump, and yes you can put a 2 1/2 x 2" RB on that remaining piece of pipe with a 2 1/2" 45 that will accomadate a 2 1/2" toe nipple. Keep in mind that the suction inlet height will differ, (even if you didn't need to make more room you couldn't just swap them out)

[24k]

Thanks for the gameplan. Will investigate the tbe nipple to better understand the proposed solution. Expect to come back with a few followup questions after that. -24K

[24k]

I just read that there are pieces left on the first Jandy, I can walk you through removing that if you would like. Post a pic of a close up of that if you can. Another out is to 45 that pump, and yes you can put a 2 1/2 x 2" RB on that remaining piece of pipe with a 2 1/2" 45 that will accomadate a 2 1/2" toe nipple. Keep in mind that the suction inlet height will differ, (even if you didn't need to make more room you couldn't just swap them out)

Thanks Simple. A couple more items to put out there:

I'll post a close up of the Jandy valve tomorrow, then await your advice.

There's no pad under the current pump (old one broken up) was thinking of pouring a concrete slab or buying a new pad (whichever helps the pump shed more heat)

Thanks again. -24K

[Pool Clown]

Rotate the pump 90 degrees clockwise and slide it back to 90 over to the suction side valve.

If you move it at all. Might be ok the way it sits now...

OK, you're saying to introduce a 90-degree elbow between the side valve currently in use and the intake on the new pump that's now turned with the intake pointing toward the filter tank. right? If this is the case, then I have only one possible concern: slowing down the flow at the intake. Here are the specs in play, let me know if my fears are unfounded given this setup:

This configuration adds 1 90, thats all. I don't see another config that will give as much room, with least amount of additional fittings.

> All pool returns are 1.5" pipe, including skimmer basket runs of 25' and 35' with the main drain line running around 50' (depth at main drain of 6'). Jandy recommends 2" pipe for runs of 0-50'. If you want to increase pipe size, (I really don't think you need to) you can do that.

> Intake valve on ePump is 2.5" diameter. Guess I'll need to step it down twice unless I can use the outside (grey)portion of the Jandy suction valve that still has remnanants of the original pipe running around 3/4 of its circumference (any pointers on chipping this off without further damage to valve would be appreciated).

You can sand it, or be careful and chip the fitting off.

The reasons why I don't think the current orientation will work are twofold: (1) I don't have 9 1/4" between the wall and the current pump and there's no space on the intake side for a coupler, let alone a threaded union; (2) The electrical hookups on the ePump are in the very back, with no top or side access from what I can see in the schematics.

I'm always for more room around pumps (for servicing, cooling). Power hookup is normally in the back of the motor.

[simple]

No sweat 24k, you'll be sanding for day if you plan to go that route. What is your plumbing skill level on 1 - 10, 10 is relly skilled/experienced. That will help me figure out how to advise, Thanks, and I thought "I" was the only one up

[24k]

OK everyone. I've been able to extract some gems of wisdom from each and every one of you, and there seems to be a consensus around a few points:

• Add the fewest number of new fittings necessary (less work for me- a #5 on Simple's plumbing scale)
  
• Adding either a 45-degree or a 90-degree turn at the inlet is actually a good thing as makes for a longer run than I have now
  
• Keep the electrical connections as close as possible to the wall
  
• I need to add a slab or pad under the new pump
  

These considerations have me leaning toward the layout orignally suggested by Pool Clown, which leaves me with only a few more questions:

> Since I'll now have as much room as I need, should I place threaded unions on both sides of the pump as specified by Jandy? If so, I'll assume that the discharge union would be inline vertically between the pump and the first bend, but what about the suction side? Closer to the pump again?

> As the two biggest enemies of my new pump will be heat and vibration, what's the optimal pad/slab solution to address both?

For those who have viewed the photos and want to clean up the whole mess as much as I do, please know that I'll be securing all the black wire that you see in the photos (AC lines running to low-voltage lights/timers) and the non-metallic conduit and yellow box on the wall will be removed (old, disconnected freeze-guard).

For those of you who have volunteered to guide me on removing the pipe remnants from the Jandy valve, here the photo:

Almost there! Thanks again. -24K

[24k]

No sweat 24k, you'll be sanding for day if you plan to go that route. What is your plumbing skill level on 1 - 10, 10 is relly skilled/experienced. That will help me figure out how to advise, Thanks, and I thought "I" was the only one up

Simple/All: As mentioned above, I consider myself a #5 on your plumbing scale, meaning I'll take on almost anything PVC, will cut and terminate copper and install mechanical terminators or inline devices (filters, etc...), but shy away from sweating joints. Have most common tools including: reciprocating, table, jig, circular, coping, hack and traditional wood saws. Also have pipe cutters, drills, chisels, rasps, sanders, etc... Hope that helps you advise me on the extraction from the Jandy valve (see photo in previous post). -24K

[simple]

If you consider yourself to be a #5, then I'll guess your being modest and make you a #7 Ok, here's your choices, the "right way" "-"inbetween"-"the easy way" note that the order decends which also will decrease equip efficientcy. I think we also have to consider your future plan to purchase a pre-cast slab or pour one, right?

[simple]

ok, I'll reference as N is top of pic S is the male from the pump.

Get out your hacksaw blade (18T Lennox)hold so teeth are directed toward you not away like on a hacksaw. cut the old fitting from NE to SW (you have to because it's tough to move the blade with the jandy in the way. you will be cutting diagonally and end the cut right where the chip stops, the cut will go the thickness of the fitting just until you see grey from the jandy from one side of the cut to the other. Then you can use a thin screw driver (my favorite is using linemans as a hammer, tap at the edge where your cut ended (like the tip of a piece of pie) and get under that edge and work it back, you should hear it "pop" now and again as it gets lifted off of the jandy. If you try to take too much at a time then it will chip like you have in the pic. Try to do this when it is warmest as the pvc will be a tad more flexible. If need be make some more cuts as you did the first, let me know how it goes!!!!!!!!!!! If you need me to post a sample pic I can, good luck!!

[24k]

ok, I'll reference as N is top of pic S is the male from the pump.

Get out your hacksaw blade (18T Lennox)hold so teeth are directed toward you not away like on a hacksaw. cut the old fitting from NE to SW (you have to because it's tough to move the blade with the jandy in the way. you will be cutting diagonally and end the cut right where the chip stops, the cut will go the thickness of the fitting just until you see grey from the jandy from one side of the cut to the other. Then you can use a thin screw driver (my favorite is using linemans as a hammer, tap at the edge where your cut ended (like the tip of a piece of pie) and get under that edge and work it back, you should hear it "pop" now and again as it gets lifted off of the jandy. If you try to take too much at a time then it will chip like you have in the pic. Try to do this when it is warmest as the pvc will be a tad more flexible. If need be make some more cuts as you did the first, let me know how it goes!!!!!!!!!!! If you need me to post a sample pic I can, good luck!!

Sounds straightforward enough. I'll give this a go tomorrow (when it's supposed to get up to 98 degrees) then post the results tomorrow night. Since I have to take the old pump out anyway, I'll go ahead and cut the 1.5" pipe at the threaded union to get the pump out of the way. This will also leave enough surface area to use this pipe as Plan B in case things don't go well. Thanks again. -24K

[24k]

OK, that seemed to work well. Here's the after shot:

As you'll see in this photo the pump is gone and I've left a stub of 1.5" PVC as the fallback. Everything is smooth on the OD of the valve now and there's no appreciable loss of material, so I'd like to remove as much of the 1.5" pipe as is necessary. Should I cut it off at the edge of the Jandy valve, or should I cut it just short of there and go back into cut, pry and peel mode to get everything out of the interior as well?

Thanks again. -24K

[simple]

Great job, told you #7. If you want to remove the 1 1/2" from there you will do the same thing to that pipe in the inside of the jandy, however with one extra step, and your cuts will differ in angle, are you down?

[simple]

leave about a 1/4" inch of the pipe sticking out of the port and hack the rest. You will need to make your cuts parallel with the pipe, at the bottom or top to avoid the jandy body (inside) if I remember correctly, the sides pertrude slightly and you can't get the saw action going. make two cuts side by side about 1/4" apart-then take the 1/4" piece out first (driver and linemans) -then the pipe will have room to peel (you'll see what I mean when you start). Once you get 1/2 of the pipe loose take your channel lockes, grab that 1/4" you left and twist to finish peeling, it should come right out OR just work the screw driver. peeling with the locks prevents any further small chips and dents, hopefully the plumber didn't use primer...

[24k]

leave about a 1/4" inch of the pipe sticking out of the port and hack the rest. You will need to make your cuts parallel with the pipe, at the bottom or top to avoid the jandy body (inside) if I remember correctly, the sides pertrude slightly and you can't get the saw action going. make two cuts side by side about 1/4" apart-then take the 1/4" piece out first (driver and linemans) -then the pipe will have room to peel (you'll see what I mean when you start). Once you get 1/2 of the pipe loose take your channel lockes, grab that 1/4" you left and twist to finish peeling, it should come right out OR just work the screw driver. peeling with the locks prevents any further small chips and dents, hopefully the plumber didn't use primer...

Sounds like a plan. Will do this tomorrow. I dug out the pad area today and have about a week until the pump arrives. Should be able to take it from here. Will post a picture of the final config once everything is set. Thanks again for all the help on this board. -24K

[simple]

Sounds like you have it all under contol, Thanks

[simple]

one last thing, I just read something form earlier. If you are pouring a slab (or purchasing pre-cast) be sure and add the filter on to that. If it is on dirt and the pump is on solid thre will be problems down the road with joints as the filter will be settling and the pump will be torquing. Also not sure if this is a typo "•Keep the electrical connections as close as possible to the wall" but you want to avoid getting the back of the motor close to a wall, pump ele connections are made at the rear, either a plate or cover needs to be removed to access. keep a minimum of 9" for covers 5" for plates.

[24k]

one last thing, I just read something form earlier. If you are pouring a slab (or purchasing pre-cast) be sure and add the filter on to that. If it is on dirt and the pump is on solid thre will be problems down the road with joints as the filter will be settling and the pump will be torquing. Also not sure if this is a typo "Keep the electrical connections as close as possible to the wall" but you want to avoid getting the back of the motor close to a wall, pump ele connections are made at the rear, either a plate or cover needs to be removed to access. keep a minimum of 9" for covers 5" for plates.

Simple: Removing the dirt and debris revealed that the old pump was sitting on top of same pad as the filter, as shown in this current photo:

The good news is that by turning the new pump 90 degrees clockwise and parallel with the wall, I'll have tons of room for the electric hookups (after a little more excavation and an Allan Block retaining wall), the bad news is that this orientation will take the new pump off the current pad. I don't want the new pump to straddle two pads (torqing issues) and I want the pad for the new pump to be perfectly level, so it will have its own pad which will also compensate for the height difference created by going to 2" pipe. I'll also be putting down weed-block mesh on the dirt around the pads and backfilling with river rocks to prevent erosion, eliminate dirt washing over the footings and generally to tidy up the whole setup.

Do you see any issues with this two-pad config? -24K

[simple]

No problem at all with that, I have much faith in you to make sure it is compacted enough to where there won't be any settling. If you do decide to go with the 90 jsut make sure that there is at least 6-8" of pipe between the pump face and the 90 please keep us updated with pics!!

[24k]

No problem at all with that, I have much faith in you to make sure it is compacted enough to where there won't be any settling. If you do decide to go with the 90 jsut make sure that there is at least 6-8" of pipe between the pump face and the 90 please keep us updated with pics!!

Simple:

Updated photo below:

Thinking about using flexpipe to help steer the discharge around the strainer basket (instead of using 90's) and to re-align the intake (see where the 45 on the Jandy [not glued] is pointing). Let me know what you think. Would also like to hear from anyone else on the Forum that's had good or bad experience with flexpipe. Thanks. -24K

[simple]

I would not recommend flex pipe, as it reacts poorly to any medium to heavy bodied glue which is recommended with sch40. The only place I'd use that is on a pre-cast spa for the jets with a really light bodied glue. PC had a good idea with the 90, just extend that jandy with a coupling put a piece of pipe in there 8-10" then the 90 and another piece 6-8" into your pump. That way you can set that slab length ways between the existing and block wall, if you are slick the discharge will line up. Also, is that a sweep fitting (the 45), I believe those are for non pressure systems (drainage and sewer) does it have the NSF stamp?

[24k]

I would not recommend flex pipe, as it reacts poorly to any medium to heavy bodied glue which is recommended with sch40. The only place I'd use that is on a pre-cast spa for the jets with a really light bodied glue. PC had a good idea with the 90, just extend that jandy with a coupling put a piece of pipe in there 8-10" then the 90 and another piece 6-8" into your pump. That way you can set that slab length ways between the existing and block wall, if you are slick the discharge will line up. Also, is that a sweep fitting (the 45), I believe those are for non pressure systems (drainage and sewer) does it have the NSF stamp?

I appreciate the heads up on the flex pipe. Thought about the 90-degree turn setup and the straight discharge, but what about the access to the strainer basket? The ePump has an extra large basket and Jandy recommends 2 feet of vertical clearance.

Good catch on the 45. I realized it's not schedule 40 yesterday at Home Depot and plan to replace all fittings with S-40. I just stuck it on the valve to see the relative angles I was dealing with. Do you have any problem with using two 45's to make a make a gradual 90? I think I can "contraptulize" a three-45 discharge config that starts parallel to the strainer (after extending the current straight run) and "90s" (with two 45s) down toward the discharge at a 45-degree angle with the last 45 accepting this leg directly above the discharge. Let me know what you think, as I'm going back to Home Depot in the morning, as there's a chance the pump will be here tomorrow.

Thanks again for all of your help.

-24K