simple

Don't use silicone, get the magic lube, any pool supply place should carry it, it doesn't "set up" or dry. If all fails use petroleum jelly (vaseline), follow Rogers instructions. You shouldn't have to use a wrench accept to snug it, hand tight should be enough. Making sure the red and black (in your diagram) are perfectly parallel before you start threading is key as well.

PC, I don't see where I insulted anyone and I did apologize if I was out of line. Please tell me if I assumed incorrectly, I doubt that I did. Additionally, you guys are pros at the issues that I am not. The only thing I know about chlorine is that it goes in the washer with the white load (and that in it's solid form it is combined with sodium to make salt) but you understand my point. I would never contradict or second guess your advice or recommendations. With that said if I really did offend anyone, please accept my sincere apology as that was not my intention. By the way if you or quantum get any direct questions from new members it's because I refer people to you and to this site.

"I may not be seeing it here but, to me, a leak is a leak. Does it matter how much? Not really, it will be dealt with the same won't it? Expose it, and fix it. Confirm you have a leak, done."

All I'm doing is trying to help this person with his problem, anyone not knowing or not understanding the relevance of how much water is being lost, or not knowing that a suction line sucks air while the pump is running only tells me that they have not had much experience with diagnosing and repairing plumbing issues. I'm guessing that many of you are service techs and have some plumbing, and maybe electrical, and most likely no excavation, rebar, gunite, or deck experience. Please tell me if I am mistaken, anyhow, the point is if there is a considerable leak then it is causing a cavity where ever it is whether it is under the deck, on the side of the shell etc, if this is the case I would recommend that he stops running the pool and get it addressed. I apologize for being a little out of line but don't question other peoples suggestions just because you don't know or understand

Thnx bear, don't see how I can make it any more simple: If your pool is loosing water when the pump is on, the leak is in a return line, a suction line would only suc air. A plumbing leak in a suction line results in a pool loosing water when the pump is off. If he runs the pool 8 hrs a day that's about 17 gal an hr (.25 gpm) If he runs the pool 2 hrs a day that's about 71 gal/hr or 1.2 gpm The next step of advice would come after we find how much water he's loosing AND assuming that the 1000 gal/wk is accurate.

The threaded cork thing is probably an expansion plug

If your pool is loosing water when the pump is on, the leak is in a return line, a suction line would only suc air. Please indicate how many hrs your pump is running per day and divide 142 by that amount of hrs, let me know the answer, no real need to pressure test if you only have a pool return line (no spa, water features etc)

Dude, relax: PVC pipes perform well at very low temperatures and to highlight the strength of PVC pipes in extreme conditions. The impact test shows how well a solid wall pipe, made of a standard PVC formula with no impact modifiers, of 110mm diameter responds to a weight of 8Kg being dropped from a height of 2m. Just don't drop anything heavier than 8kg from any higher than 6.56 ft,and please note that PC has a great point. We don't give you advice that we read out of a book, we have all done this for a living for years. LOL quantum

Can you post pics?

"welcome Kc, now take notes! That is clearly a DE filter! Hence the push pull valve in front of the filter." Thank You Fireman, Kc was killin me..

"Can't wait to see your creation!!"

I thought about the clearance as well, to minimize the fittings, you would want to keep that pump out as far as possible from the house so you can 90 out towards the yard to the discharge side of the pump (or flip the 45 that was originally there). When "pre-fabing" a pump for installation, typically there is a waste tee on top (to utilize when draining the pool) which always forces you to keep the clearance. In regards to the two 45's: 1 90 = 9 ft of pipe 1 45 = 5 ft of pipe (2 45's = 10 ft of pipe so it makes a slight difference to just use a 90, however you will be able to adjust the height if there is a difference by using 2 45's, just keep in mind the more you detour from keeping those 45's on a perfectly horizontal plane (which equals a perfect 90) the more you detour from the 90 degre angle. As far as ,..hold on,.. "contraptulizing" the discharge, you would be okay offsetting the line that would go straight to the discharge side of the pump ( a dog leg in electrical terms)then back over then down. I would stick to what I suggested at the top of this reply. Can't wait to see you creation!!

I would not recommend flex pipe, as it reacts poorly to any medium to heavy bodied glue which is recommended with sch40. The only place I'd use that is on a pre-cast spa for the jets with a really light bodied glue. PC had a good idea with the 90, just extend that jandy with a coupling put a piece of pipe in there 8-10" then the 90 and another piece 6-8" into your pump. That way you can set that slab length ways between the existing and block wall, if you are slick the discharge will line up. Also, is that a sweep fitting (the 45), I believe those are for non pressure systems (drainage and sewer) does it have the NSF stamp?

No problem at all with that, I have much faith in you to make sure it is compacted enough to where there won't be any settling. If you do decide to go with the 90 jsut make sure that there is at least 6-8" of pipe between the pump face and the 90 please keep us updated with pics!!

one last thing, I just read something form earlier. If you are pouring a slab (or purchasing pre-cast) be sure and add the filter on to that. If it is on dirt and the pump is on solid thre will be problems down the road with joints as the filter will be settling and the pump will be torquing. Also not sure if this is a typo "•Keep the electrical connections as close as possible to the wall" but you want to avoid getting the back of the motor close to a wall, pump ele connections are made at the rear, either a plate or cover needs to be removed to access. keep a minimum of 9" for covers 5" for plates.

Sounds like you have it all under contol, Thanks

Very well said Sir.

Pac Fab no longer exists and hasn't for some time. Pentair is branding all their pool equipemtn with the Pentair brand, including the Sta-rite line. Isn't the design the same (Triton vs C30)? The style is what I was after (Purex-Pentair-whisper flo) That style and design works well especially for keeping up with county and city health regs (large amount of turn over) As for that System 3, are there any techs that would like to comment on servicing that...thing?

leave about a 1/4" inch of the pipe sticking out of the port and hack the rest. You will need to make your cuts parallel with the pipe, at the bottom or top to avoid the jandy body (inside) if I remember correctly, the sides pertrude slightly and you can't get the saw action going. make two cuts side by side about 1/4" apart-then take the 1/4" piece out first (driver and linemans) -then the pipe will have room to peel (you'll see what I mean when you start). Once you get 1/2 of the pipe loose take your channel lockes, grab that 1/4" you left and twist to finish peeling, it should come right out OR just work the screw driver. peeling with the locks prevents any further small chips and dents, hopefully the plumber didn't use primer...

Great job, told you #7. If you want to remove the 1 1/2" from there you will do the same thing to that pipe in the inside of the jandy, however with one extra step, and your cuts will differ in angle, are you down?

ok, I'll reference as N is top of pic S is the male from the pump. Get out your hacksaw blade (18T Lennox)hold so teeth are directed toward you not away like on a hacksaw. cut the old fitting from NE to SW (you have to because it's tough to move the blade with the jandy in the way. you will be cutting diagonally and end the cut right where the chip stops, the cut will go the thickness of the fitting just until you see grey from the jandy from one side of the cut to the other. Then you can use a thin screw driver (my favorite is using linemans as a hammer, tap at the edge where your cut ended (like the tip of a piece of pie) and get under that edge and work it back, you should hear it "pop" now and again as it gets lifted off of the jandy. If you try to take too much at a time then it will chip like you have in the pic. Try to do this when it is warmest as the pvc will be a tad more flexible. If need be make some more cuts as you did the first, let me know how it goes!!!!!!!!!!! If you need me to post a sample pic I can, good luck!!

If you consider yourself to be a #5, then I'll guess your being modest and make you a #7 Ok, here's your choices, the "right way" "-"inbetween"-"the easy way" note that the order decends which also will decrease equip efficientcy. I think we also have to consider your future plan to purchase a pre-cast slab or pour one, right?

Phil, First of all, you don't need the run around with the site for "ingound pool prices". Most builders here on the west coast have base pricing for everything. This will give you an idea about pricing: 20k-25k = 70' perimeter pool-up to 6' (surcharge is extra) for every perimeter ft over will be $200-$300-base ele $2500-aqua link $4000 (for the spa over 7'x7' $100- $150). I don't see that you need 8-10' in depth, it is wasted money unless you really plan on swimming around down there with a scuba tank. If you did you can easily increase the $200 perimeter per ft to $500-$700 (that is a lot of extra material, labor, and engineering (pool companies get charged for this)-300 sq ft of deck (sprayed)- 20' plumbing run (max) -This is with no extras, it would take me an hour to list everything, I am looking at 98, and that does not include landscape-contract and addendums. Pricing is very complicated and anyone who says different doesn't know what they are talking about. Spa base (if added to pool) 4k-5k-lite $250-blower $250-booster pump $700 etc And technically there ARE endless shapes and sizes for fiberglass pools (gunite pool with fiberglass finish instead of plaster) (I just had to throw that in there I know your talking about pre-cast) Also, I'm guessing that fiber or vinyl is the pool of choice in the ease-northeast (maybe you guys can confirm this) however, the composite construction pools reign over here.

No sweat 24k, you'll be sanding for day if you plan to go that route. What is your plumbing skill level on 1 - 10, 10 is relly skilled/experienced. That will help me figure out how to advise, Thanks, and I thought "I" was the only one up

I'm guessing you are planning on sand filters, I have never been or will be a fan of Pac Fab, but for comm apps, I have yet to see one spec'd without a Pac Fab Sand filter. Challenger pumps have always been noisy...