Replacing The Base On A Hot Tub

[paxthar]

If I want to replace the plywood base of my hottub and the surrounding edge boards. Is it ok to turn it on it's side for a day or two. I would put the side with the pumps down, and go from there. or is there a better way to do this job. Could I just go over the old plywood with a new layer, sealing the old layer inside the new surrounding edge boards and the base plywood?

Thanks

[Dnepr Dave]

They transport spas on their sides all the time, it won't hurt anything to tip it on the side. Don't cover rotten wood with new, it'll just rot the new wood too.

Dave

[Roger]

They transport spas on their sides all the time, it won't hurt anything to tip it on the side. Don't cover rotten wood with new, it'll just rot the new wood too.

Dave

Try and find a plastics place and get a sheet of plastic. (Seally Plastics) here

[paxthar]

Thanks for the info.... I just don't know if I want to do it this year, or just get the darn tub in and up and running and leave it for next years project...HAH..

[wkearney99]

What sort of plastic is recommended as a replacement base? And seeing as how most tubs are larger than a typical 4x8 sheet of material, is it ok to use two sections? I'll probably replace the floor under our Nordic at some point. It's not gone yet but a few of the side panels are losing their attachment to the floor strip around the base.

[Roger]

What sort of plastic is recommended as a replacement base? And seeing as how most tubs are larger than a typical 4x8 sheet of material, is it ok to use two sections? I'll probably replace the floor under our Nordic at some point. It's not gone yet but a few of the side panels are losing their attachment to the floor strip around the base.

http://www.plastic-sheets.net/Black-Abs-Ex...m3=96&qty=1

The seam should be chemicaly welded. Or they may do it for you. Might be easier to have it shipped smaller and weld it yourself? We have a local place here that sells ABS sheets and they will custom make any size. The thisker the better but of course the cost goes up. Thinner will roll up for shipping, your call. Don't go any less than .060

[paxthar]

I was just thinking of using two sheets of tongue and groove pressure treated plywood and replace the surrounding edge boards with nice cedar boards. I would fasten the plywood and boards with corrosion resistant screws.

[Roger]

I was just thinking of using two sheets of tongue and groove pressure treated plywood and replace the surrounding edge boards with nice cedar boards. I would fasten the plywood and boards with corrosion resistant screws.

That will work, and last for a long time. Seal the edges of the plywood real good.

[paxthar]

Well I tilted the tub on it's side and stripped off the old rotten chip board and replaced it with plywood that I treated with preservative and replaced the side board with treated 2 X 4's. Worked pretty slick but man was it messy. I figure it will last for as long as I am going to have it seeing that the old floor was almost 10 years old. Guess it cost me about 60 buck to replace the base wood. Figure it was a good investment. Now to figure out all this water chemistry stuff and to hopefully get rid of all the sand that is in the tub and jets!!

[steveig]

On 3/26/2010 at 3:59 AM, paxthar said:

I was just thinking of using two sheets of tongue and groove pressure treated plywood and replace the surrounding edge boards with nice cedar boards. I would fasten the plywood and boards with corrosion resistant screws.

what thickness was the ply you used, as ive just purchased a2nd had tub ,works fine but the floor and sides all need rebuilding