paxthar

As an update to this post. I ended up replacing my circulation pump (Bout $250 installed, not that bad at all I thought) I took apart the old pump, and basically it was all "gummed" up where the magnet spins inside the ceramic housing. Cleaned it out and it works fine!! Guess now I got to build a pond seeing that I have a nice quiet circulation pump to aerate the water!!

Hey Everyone, So I have an issue with my new pool that I had installed this summer. Basically in spots along the straight sides, where the sand base meets the wall, it appears (according to me feeling with my toes) that the side wall has "pushed away" a bit from the base, creating a crevasse between the base and the wall. Is this anything to worry about? The guys who installed my pool (at a cost of $4500) said that this is normal as some pools settle and the water presses against the walls of the pool. They said the only real way to fix it would be when I go about replacing my liner, then I could touch up the sand base along the walls. The pool was installed on a concrete perimeter with a sand base. I did notice that when they put the sand base in they really didn't put a curve along the wall where the base and wall met but rather just met the sand base to the wall at a 90 degree angle. If this isn't going to harm my liner, I am happy to wait it out till I have the opportunity to move the liner away from the wall and touch up the base, and I think put in some kind of curve where the sand floor and wall meet. Thanks for any advice in advance!!

Hey Everyone, So I have winterized my pool, put on my cover, everything seems good. The only thing I worry about is that the cover instructions said to drain the pool down 2 feet from the top of the railing. I did this, and when I put on my cover, the cover does not go straight down the sides of the pool nicely, but rather slope in a bit because the water is low. Will this be a problem for the winter? I plan on keeping a really close eye on it, or have even thought about adding a bit of water to the pool to make the cover a bit "looser" on the sides. What does everyone else think? Thanks

So to update my pump #2 problem!! I opened up my spa, swapped the pump plugs on my circut board to see if it was my control panel or circuit board causing this problem. Lo and behold my pump #1 works fine when plugged into Pump #2 outlet, and my Pump #2 still has no low speed when plugged into my Pump #1 outlet. So I deduce that it is something with my pump. I pulled it out and took it to the Arctic dealer in my area. He couldn't figure out either what is causing this pump to not work on low speed. He had plugged it into one of his test tubs and the pump did the same thing, no low speed, high speed works fine. The only thing I saw, was that the capicator housing had cracked a bit, and the metal ring in the bottom of the capacitor had slipped out. The dealer said the capicator was ok, it was reading a bit "low"? But shouldn't be causing this problem. Could this whole problem be as simple as it is the cord itself? The low speed wire or plug is damaged or broken somewhere along the line and that is why I have no low speed? Thanks in advance!!

Hey everyone, Got a problem with my 2000 Arctic Cub. My #2 pump dosen't engage in low speed, but when I press the panel button to engage the pump into high speed it works. So I got no low speed but I got high speed. I have replaced the control panel and circuit board in the last year and a half. Is there anyway to trouble shoot this to see if it is a board problem or a motor problem? I understand if I swap two wires (?Red and Black) on the motor connection then I can see if the motor engages the low speed and won't on the high speed, meaning it would be a board problem. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Same thing happened to me, but my GFI breaker I think was faulty and didn't trip when it should of, and it fried my mainboard. $500 for a Board and $275 for a breaker...ouch... The breaker was almost 10 years old and the electrician told me that over time they will get "weak", that is why they have a "test" button, so you can make sure they are working.

Hi, It is a Gecko Mspa board. And it has four jumpers on it. Thanks

Hi, I recently replaced the circuit board in my 2000 Arctic Cub, and now it seems that my circ. pump/ozone does not work. I have checked the jumper on the circuit board, and it is set on the "on" pins for the circ pump. The replacement board is not quite exactly the same as my old one that fried. The diode that blew on my old one is not even present on the new one. Everything else seems to work fine except the circ pump/ozone. Any suggestions as to how to troubleshoot the circ pump? Anyone know of where there is a manual on the programming of the topside panel for a tub of this age? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for all the replies....the K2006 it is with a bottle of the R=0872 reagent. Thanks again ... This forum is the BEST!!!

Hi, I am just wanting to know what Taylor Test Kit I should buy. I am using the Arctic Peak Boost chemical regime and shocking once a week with MPS. My water is nice and clear and has no smell, but I am going to be getting an above ground pool and want to get a really good test kit that I can use to cover both the pool and the hot tub. The Arctic Peak Boost is a combination of Bromine and Chlorine so I would need a test kit that would be able to measure both levels. I am thinking the 2006 C or the 2106 kit. Any answers are appreciated in advance. Thanks so much Rob

Hi Brian, Who did your pool? Could I get the info, that would be great!! Thanks in Advance.

Looking to put in an above ground pool 12' X 24'. Going to go with a heat pump and possibly a salt water system for simplicity. Got one quote which is this: Chateau Pool 12' X 24' - $3800 Comes with sand filter and hayward pump. Solar Roller System - $239 101,000 BTU Heat Pump - $2999 Free Pool Cleaner Plumbing Supplies 15% off and 15% off First purchase of Chemicals Free Delivery So this comes to a total of about $7000 before tax. Another quote we got is this: 12' X 24' Aqua Leader "Creation" Model -(This model comes with a liner that "hangs" on the panels when installing and has a cartridge filter system instead of a sand filter. - $4695 Salt water System included with pool, Ladder, Pool Cleaner, etc... Solar Blanket Roller - $300 Heat Pump - $3500 Salt Chemical Bundle with pool purchase - $399 This quote comes to around $8890 before tax. The differences between the two quotes is that the cheaper one does not include a salt water system, or a cartridge filter system. Is the salt water and cartridge filter system worth the extra cash? I want to go with a heat pump just because it is cheaper to operate in the long run and all I have to do is run wiring. Thanks in advance for your comments/suggestions.

I would just drain it and be done with it. When you have the time to fill it, you'll also once again have the time to actually use it!! A new baby will take up a lot of your time for the next little bit. Congrats!!

Confused with mfg claims of quality and performance. This is my first time buying / owning a Spa, and would appreciate unbiased advice from the Spa Community, both users and technicians. I do not want wood or metal framing which narrows it down to Artic (Kodiak Legend), Clearwater (St Andrew Signature), Bullfrog (552) and Hot Spring (Aria). Whichever I choose it will have Ozone with small circulation pump. Will Wet Test prior to purchasing. My questions / concerns are as follows: I'll give you my 2 cents as a first time tub owner who bought a 10 year old Arctic Cub No foam to support plumbing - Prone to issues with leaks? I like being able to see all my tubing and hoses etc. It will be that much easier and quicker to fix any leaks that I have. The tubing is very rigid at least in the Arctic Tubs and I really don't see any reason for it needing extra support. If I wanted extra support I'll buy a can of spray foam and spray it where I want to support hoses a bit more. I believe that the tub I had has had leaks in the past, but it appeared to me that there was only about two or three visible. I could see where silicone had been used or a tube had a splice put in it. But in MHO having just the perimeter insulated is a better way to prevent costly repair bills in the future. Especially if you are buying a used tub. Foam Filled - Nightmare to find and repair leaks? I would think it makes it harder,you have to carve away the foam and hope your going towards the right hose and area where the leak is. Plumbing Leaks - Are they a major issue?Not if you have a perimeter filled tub. Having a full foam tub I would think would make a repair longer, messier, and harder to find. Switching Jet Packs is nice but not a must - Less holes, less leaks but at the expense of key therapeutic points? Can't really give an opinion on this, I don't have a Jet Pack, but having a "master" chair or some seat that has lots of jets is nice. My Cub has one seat that massages your hips and back and it is the favorite seat of both me and my wife. 100% Filtration - (Makes sense to me) Is it an advantage?I would think any tub you buy is going to have filtration. You program it to run so long and for so many times in a 24 hour period. But in general all tubs will have filtration. Issues with Quality, Workmanship, Equipment (Pumps-Jets-Tubing), Service, for the models mentioned above?All I can speak to is the build and quality of my Arctic Cub, built in 2000. After 10 years of being outside I bought it and before installing it had it serviced. The Techs were impressed that it was in as good shape as it was. One pump looked newer than the other, but the older one they said had been rebuilt. The motors and bearings were all in good shape. The cedar cabinet is in need of a good sanding and staining, and there is a few cedar boards that need replacing. I had to totally replace the base, which was just chip board, but I was impressed that it actually was in the shape it was considering it was 10 years old, and had been sitting directly on the ground. Overall I know when I upgrade my tub the first place I will be going is Arctic, but I also will look at used tubs because you can save so much money on them. All of these Mfg have pros and cons but which advantages are important. I know there are no perfect tubs (Just Tubbers), but like most people, looking for the best quality and value for the dollar. I would greatly appreciate any input! Just my opinion. I am glad that I bought a used tub, that way I wasn't into it for a bunch of cash before I saw how much I used it and how much it cost, etc... First time I would go with a used tub and then upgrade to a better one in a year or two.

Thanks chem geek for that link on Peak Boost, that was good information!!

Thanks Chem Geek.... So to clarify, cause I am a spa newbie... Fresh fill with a new filter and add enough Peak Boost to get around 100 ppm, then after every soak add peak boost according to bather load. And then once a week shock my tub with about 2.5 to 5 fl. oz of Clorox bleach. In between shocks my ozonator should be taking care of the sanitizing. After a shock test strip my water and if the bromine is high I've shocked with too much bleach and if it is too low I haven't used enough. How often should I be testing my water? I find that I am having to use two or three test strips every time I soak because I test it before I get in, then end up having to add peak boost because there is no bromine in the water, and then test the water again to make sure there is at least some bromine in the water. I am finding all this water balancing and maintenance very confusing and frustrating. It seems there is so many pros and cons to everything that I am starting not to know which way to turn!! Thanks again for your reply and help.

Forgot to add, if I should switch to bleach, what bleach should I use, or should I buy chlorine that is meant for a pool? Thanks again...

Ok so if I am understanding this thread I could use this regime to care for my spa. I have an 2000 Arctic Cub with Peak Ozone in it that the Arctic Dealer said appeared to be working. So I have been just using Peak Boost for sanitizing and that is it. A capful and a bit with a new fill, and then a 1/3 to 3/4 a capful after each soak depending on bather load. As for shocking I just have been throwing in a capful or so of the Peak Boost. Should I be maybe throwing in bleach instead of the Peak Boost to shock the tub? If I am understanding this right the bleach, which is 6% chlorine, activates the bromine that is banked in the water. It frees up the bromine, like the ozone is doing also. Am I getting this right?? So would it be beneficial for me to shock with bleach instead of just adding more Peak Boost. Another question, is there a way to tell the difference between chlorine tabs and bromine tabs? Is there a different smell or something. My tub came with a floater and a bunch of tabs but I don't know if they are chlorine tabs or bromine tabs. Thanks for any reply's in advance.

So if you are using bromine you should shock with Bleach because bleach has chlorine in it right? Generally what is a good amount to start at when using bleach to shock your tub? Clorox bleach is the one to use right? And this is all compatible with Ozone I am assuming.

Hi, Saw this and was wondering if it could be retrofitted to be used on a spa, could it be a cheap alternative to converting your spa to salt water? http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/5/SportsRec/PoolsAccessories/PoolChemicalslAccessories/PRD~0813777P/Krystal%252BClean%252526%252523153%252BSalt%252BWater%252BChlorinator.jsp?locale=en Thanks in Advance

Can this method be used with the Peak Ozone system by Arctic?

My dealer directed me to use the Arctic Pure system seeing that my tub has Peak Ozone in it. I'm giving that a try.

Found an electrician!! Cost me $200 to hook up my tub. Great guy to work with. I had everything ready so all we had to do was run the wire and hook it up at both ends. Couldn't say enough about this electrician. Would definitely recommend him.

Hello All, Just wondering what other people have used for polishing up the surface of their tubs. Mine is used and has lost it's luster in some of it's seats. The next time I drain I am hoping I can give some of the deeper scratches a polish to shine it up a bit and protect the acrylic surface. Thanks in Advance