trigear

I posted yesterday and for some reason it is gone. Is there any reason to worry with csi on a rotomolded spa? Thanks

I am looking for a bromine floater for a small tub. I have tried three and all allow too much bromine into the water. One floater uses vertical lines and and a sliding tab to cover them, one uses horizontal openings and you screw the thing in and out and the third is a small floater with zig zag openings which you twist back and forth. If any hole is open any amount (I mean even a slight crack) the bromine goes to 10 ppm in two days. I have went to the bromine two step method for control and that works. Is there a plastic patch or compound which will last in spa water so I could fill all the holes and drill small openings to give me the control needed. This is a 145 gallon spa.

Let me see if I've got this straight. 1. If I shock my tub to 10 ppm any silver over 465 ppt (parts per trillion) will precipitate out and either float to to top or sink to the bottom and be either trapped in the filter or go back into solution as the bromine levels drop. 2. The levels of silver are too low to be useful anyway so the mineral cartridge is a big waste of money. If this is true then maintaining bromine (with no minerals) is safe at 1 - 2 ppm. Therefore the recommended levels of bromine are set at a conservative (safe from lawsuit) levels.

Per some recent post regarding the use of silver ions in bromine systems I thought I would ask if this product is safe. Per the spa frog website http://www.kingtechnology.com/pdf/manuals/Manual-SpaFrogFloating-English.pdf they recommend 1-2 ppm bromine. Is this a safe level of bromine? Does it matter which type of bromine is used BCDMH VS DBDMH?

What value in ppm would be an acceptable shock level for a bromine spa? If a mineral cartridge such as spa frog is used would that change the value?

Also remember these are small hot tubs. I have a fantasy tub on an enclosed patio and it only holds 135 gallons of water. Not a lot of water to heat and not a huge temperature difference such as an outside tub would see. I am happy with the "hot stick" heating". If I had a 600 gallon tub outside this would not be practical. These are niche market tubs and they do a great job in that market which is low dollar small tub. Also customer service is great. I had a control system die and they quickly replaced it.

What is the best method to clean black mold of the bottom of a spa cover?

I will not be dragged into an argument but the method of heating used by dreamaker involves putting a restriction in the water flow. This restriction causes the velocity of the water to decrease. This decrease of water velocity causes an increase in heat. This is required due to the conservation of energy with which the universe operates. This is where there "heat stick" terminology comes from. Granted it is a misleading term. A small part of the pump heat is also captured but it is mimnimal.

There is no law of physics violated. Friction of water through a restriction does cause a temperature increase. Every time water circulates through a pump the temperatures increases dues to frictional forces exerted by the pump. As a previous worker at nuclear power plants the systems were brought up to near operational temperature by simply running the pumps. Dreammaker spas are a very good budget spa. Dont expect $8000 performance from a $3000 spa. I happen to own a dreammaker Fantasy spa and love it. Most of the complaints I have read are simply not valid. It heats enough in the winter and doesn't heat too much in the summer.

I have a small 2 person spa. When I open the air to the jets jets on one side it started to make a groaning noise and now anytime that group of jets are open with air it makes that that noise again. The other side of jets do not make this noise Any ideals what this could be?

My wife is allergic to MPS. If you are using it you might lay off use for a while.

That is exactly what I have been doing. Right now I'm in the trial and error phase. Thanks... I am going to try the bromine and bleach at the next water change. Using a floater means your bromine levels should never go to zero. This solves the biggest problem with di-chlor then bleach doesn't it.

What is the best online place to purchase taylor test kit refills. My 2106 kit is getting low on some agents and I was looking for the best price/service online. Thanks

At http://www.watershedpoolandspa.com/ht.php they state "If you use pH Anchor and brominating tablets, it's a good idea to raise the total alkalinity to 200ppm." Ph Anchor contains phoshates in its formulation. I have not used this product however. I assume that by raising the TA you can lower the saturation index. Does this make sense?

Any way to calculate the amount of TA supplied by the phosphate buffer. If so, could you simply insert that value and perform theCSI calculation.