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What's A Good Natural Gas Heater To Buy?


bejpool

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Hey all-

I moved into a house that has a 18,000-20,000 gallon inground pool with a totally beat Anthony natural gas pool heater (previous owner was using it as a trash can apparently, as it was full of old beer cans and paper plates). I removed and junked the heater and am looking to replace it with a smaller unit that will primarily take care of the 300-400 gallon attached spa. I'm not too concerned with heating the pool as I'm going to install a solar system for that.

What's a good reliable brand that I should be looking at? Is it worth getting a unit with the nickel heat exchanger? And how big of a heater should I buy? Oh yeah...in case it matters, I have a Sta-Rite System 3 filter with a Pentair Intelliflow pump.

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I think that the Sta-Rite SR200HD Max-E-Therm 200,000 BTU Heavy Duty Heater would work well. It comes with the cupro-nickel heat exchanger.

It will heat the spa water (350 gallons) at about 1 degree per minute (excluding losses) and it is big enough if you decide that you also want to use it on the pool during times that the solar is not sufficient.

It will heat the pool (20,000 gallons) at about 1 degree per hour (excluding losses).

http://www.pentairpool.com/products/heater...-e-therm-99.htm

You could also use an electric heater if you didn't need the spa to heat up that fast. If you are going to keep the spa heated, then you won't need to worry about heat times. The CSpaXI 11 kW Model will heat 350 gallons at about 1 degree per 4.7 minutes. The electric is not suitable for outdoor use and needs to be protected from the weather.

http://www.haywardnet.com/aboveground/prod...fm?ProductID=29

http://www.haywardnet.com/aboveground/prod...Spa_Heaters.cfm

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Hey all-

I moved into a house that has a 18,000-20,000 gallon inground pool with a totally beat Anthony natural gas pool heater (previous owner was using it as a trash can apparently, as it was full of old beer cans and paper plates). I removed and junked the heater and am looking to replace it with a smaller unit that will primarily take care of the 300-400 gallon attached spa. I'm not too concerned with heating the pool as I'm going to install a solar system for that.

What's a good reliable brand that I should be looking at? Is it worth getting a unit with the nickel heat exchanger? And how big of a heater should I buy? Oh yeah...in case it matters, I have a Sta-Rite System 3 filter with a Pentair Intelliflow pump.

If you plan on being being bad on water chemistry get one with a cupro nickel exchanger. The Hayward ones come standard with them. I prefer Raypack Heaters over all of them. They are simple, reliable, quiet heaters. I would also get one that could heat the pool if need be, just in case you need to. 250,000 BTU or above

http://www.raypak.com/poolframe.htm

The Sta rite is a good heater also but the way it is made it becomes a haven for bee nest and mice at least here in PA

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I prefer Raypack Heaters over all of them. They are simple, reliable, quiet heaters. I would also get one that could heat the pool if need be, just in case you need to. 250,000 BTU or above

http://www.raypak.com/poolframe.htm

The Sta rite is a good heater also but the way it is made it becomes a haven for bee nest and mice at least here in PA

+1 for Raypak

I wouldn't put anything less than a 336K on a pool (even though you don't "plan" on using it for the pool) if you do need it (party with a cloudy day), you'll probably want quick heat rise. Its good to have a good backup heat source.

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Here is a valve that works well for sharing a heater for a pool and spa. One quick turn and the heater switches from spa to pool. You can even change the valve while the systems are running.

[Edit] My suggestion is hereby withdrawn due to price. In addition, I should have noted that the valve is designed to be used when the pool and spa are on separate pump and filtration systems. Thanks to Pool Clown for the advice. [End edit]

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He probably has pool/spa valves already, since it is an attached spa.

Probably. However, that does not mean definitely. It's enough of a possibility that I thought it was worthwhile mentioning. It sounds like the previous owners did not take very good care of the equipment.

The poster did not provide enough detail about the plumbing setup to determine what replumbing would be necessary when the new heater is installed.

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He probably has pool/spa valves already, since it is an attached spa.

Probably. However, that does not mean definitely.

But how could he have used his spa if he didn't have them?

It's enough of a possibility that I thought it was worthwhile mentioning.

But that valve (appears to be) for two separate body's of water! I suppose you could try to make it work, but he doesn't need it.

It sounds like the previous owners did not take very good care of the equipment.

Because the previous owner didn't take care of their equipment, means it (the equipment) needs this valve?

The poster did not provide enough detail about the plumbing setup to determine what replumbing would be necessary when the new heater is installed.

He said it was an attached spa. thats enough detail for me to know he doesn't need that valve.

Quantum, I'm not disagreeing with you just to be disagreeing, i really want to understand your thinking on this. I'm afraid bjpool will go out and buy this valve and not be able to use it the way it was intended. BTW, I did not see a price for this valve at the link provided, Is it an expensive valve? It maybe there somewhere, but as a average customer surfing this page, i could not find a price. If it cost more than a neverlube, what is the advantage in this application?

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Some pools with an attached spa have separate pump and filtration systems. That way the pool and spa can be kept at different temperatures. Most people like to have the spa at 100 to 104 F, while the pool is at 84 F.

I don't believe in using the same system for both.

When you have two separate systems, you need six valves to share a heater if you use a bypass, or four without a bypass. The Share-A-Heater valve does what four do in one valve. It is much easier to switch. You can even switch while the systems are running.

As far as price goes, I just checked the current price. I was not aware of how much they currently cost. The ones I have seen were put on by the pool builders and the existing ones last a very long time. I have never had to replace one and they come with a lifetime warranty. They are a very good quality valve.

Due to the current price, I am withdrawing my suggestion that the valve should be considered (See edit of my post related to the valve). (4) 2-inch Jandy Never Lube valves cost much less than this valve, if the valve(s) are even necessary.

I should have done better research before suggesting this valve. I would recommend it if the pool and spa were on separate systems and the valve was reasonably priced (which it is not).

I also don't know if there is one system or two separate systems, so the suggestion was incomplete without referencing that the valve was intended for two separate systems.

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He probably has pool/spa valves already, since it is an attached spa.

Probably. However, that does not mean definitely. It's enough of a possibility that I thought it was worthwhile mentioning. It sounds like the previous owners did not take very good care of the equipment.

The poster did not provide enough detail about the plumbing setup to determine what replumbing would be necessary when the new heater is installed.

Sorry I didn't elaborate on the setup. There is a diverting valve that I can move from skimmer/main drain suction in the pool to main drain suction in the spa. The returns for pool and spa branch off with isolation gate valves...so you can run the pool completely independent from the spa. I have only one pump (if you don't count the pool sweep pump.

As far as being able to heat the spa and not the pool while filtering both at the same time, the current piping won't allow for that. It's an interesting idea though to pipe in bypasses, but it'd probably be a plumber's nightmare!

And yeah...the pool was in sad shape, as I bought the house as a foreclosure.

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If there is anything i would change plumbing wise, it would probably be the two gate valves. Even then they should be assessed. Depending on the condition, i.e. if they were: just installed, still worked, moved freely, but not too freely as that could suggest the gate is no longer connected to the shaft. If you can still isolate the 2 body's of water from one another, then they are probably ok (there is only so much we can diagnose through the keyboard).

I hope this whole thread has helped you make a decision.

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If there is anything i would change plumbing wise, it would probably be the two gate valves. Even then they should be assessed. Depending on the condition, i.e. if they were: just installed, still worked, moved freely, but not too freely as that could suggest the gate is no longer connected to the shaft. If you can still isolate the 2 body's of water from one another, then they are probably ok (there is only so much we can diagnose through the keyboard).

I hope this whole thread has helped you make a decision.

Oh yeah, totally helped me make a decision. Thanks for all your advice, guys. I'm going to go for the Raypak. I've read a lot of good things about them. One last question: any ideas where I could get a good deal on one? If it helps any, I live in the south San Jose area.

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