bejpool

Hi all- I just purchased a slightly used Pentair Intellitouch i9+3 control system and load center off of Craigslist for $500. It looks like everything is there inside: (relays, breakers, etc) except the valve actuators or temp sensors. I figure that I still walked away with a good deal and the actuators, sensors don't cost that much. My pool and spa has shared equipment and an Intelliflo VF pump. What I'd like to do is control my gas heater and three valves: 1 three way valve for pool/spa suction, 1 three way valve for the pool/spa return, and 1 three way valve for a heater bypass valve. (I piped in an exterior bypass with a three way valve because I get much better flow/lower pump speed without the water going through the heater exchanger when the heater isn't used...that, and I figure the heat exchanger will last longer that way too.) In other words, when I want to use the spa, I hit "SPA" mode on the indoor control panel, and the 3 way valves switch from pool/spa to spa, and the heater bypass valve open and the heater fires up when flow is made. Is this possible to do? I'd also like to also be able to control/monitor the system via my Mac or phone, so would I need Screenlogic for that?

Found the leak! It wasn't the plumbing after all, but it was certainly in the spa. It was actually leaking through the light conduit in the spa. When the spa was valved in with the pool, it was just feeding the leak. How could something so simple be so overlooked by 2 different leak detection companies is beyond me.

So a quick update...leak is still there! The leak detection company came out again and pressure tested the return line and the venturi line to the spa. They pressurized to 10 psi then 14 psi. Pressure holds on all lines with no drop in pressure. He then plugged the venturi line vent opening and ran the pump at full speed. The peculiar thing was there were sporadic puffs of air bubbles coming out of the center jet only, not the jet to the left or the jet to the right of it. (there are three jets total in the spa) Obviously, it's still sucking air from SOMEwhere. Is it possible that this leak won't show under higher pressures? Usually, my pump runs at a lazy 15 gpm when I'm just filtering both the pool and spa. (about 3 psi on the filter gauge) It really has the leak detection guy stumped! When he left, I set up the bucket test in the pool and had the spa/pool running at 15 gpm. In 12 hours, the pool and spa dropped over an inch! I shut the pump off and the level stopped dropping. I called the leak detection guy and he's coming out again tomorrow. In his 15+ years of doing this, he's never seen anything like this. I'm 99% sure it's the spa somewhere but where?? With the spa valved off for the past 2 weeks, the pool didn't drop at all in level. I really need to find this thing! When/if I find out, I'll definitely keep you all updated.

I have a 33 year old Anthony 20k inground gunite pool with a small attached 300gal spa, level with the pool. (not raised) both the pool and spa share the pump and filter. Spa has a venturi system, with the venturi air line sticking out of the ground by the filter pad. There are 3 return jets and a main drain in the spa (main drain is usually valved off unless we're using the spa, which is seldom). The pool has 1 skimmer, 2 return jets. The spa has a small spillway which dumps water into the pool. Pump is a 4 year old Pentair Intelliflo VF which runs 24/7 at 15GPM/1 complete turnover a day (130watts). The pool is always clean and crystal clear with no debris on the bottom. I run the Polaris every night for 2 hours. (it's set up on the time clock) Now that you all know the stats of my pool, I have a pesky leak that happens every year around the same exact time - around December and tightens up with no leaks a a month or 2 later and will continue to hold water all summer and fall until next time. I've done "the bucket test" every time this happens, and the pool can lose up to 1" in an 8 hour time period. I've had 2 leak detection companies scratching their heads and unable to find a leak. I've had everything checked: hydrostatic valves, pool lights, skimmer, plaster imperfections, Aboveground plumbing. Aboveground plumbing is tight and no leaks at all. When the first week this December came around, it was losing 1 1/2" a day. I rolled my eyes, did the bucket test and started to keep a log trying different things: It lost water with the equipment on, didn't lose water with equipment off. Isolated off the spa and ran the pool, no loss at all. Isolated off the pool and ran the spa. This thing is dropping an inch an HOUR. So apparently, the leak is in the spa. I think I found it finally! It's definitley a return jet...or IS it? My question is, is it possible for the pool and spa to lose water through the venturi air line? At times when the pool/spa is just running at 15 gpm, the venturi air line is full of water to about 8 inches down from the top of the opening of the pipe. When I call the leak detection company to check it, should I have them check that venturi line as well? If so, what's the best way to do that? Plug the opening and the jets?

Hey all- We have very limited backyard space and we were trying to think of ways to reclaim some of what's left. The pool builder 30 years ago decided that smack dab right in the middle of our side yard for some reason, which is about 16' x 20'. Add the filter pad, heater included and it doesn't leave a lot of useable space. We have a 3 car garage that's really deep, and we were thinking about moving it 10 feet from where it sits now inside the garage against the back wall area. Aside from venting the gas heater outside, etc, is this possible and is it against code? Equipment includes Raypak RP2100 heater, Sta-Rite System 3 filter, Polaris booster pump and Pentair Intelliflo VF main pump.

When I was looking up prices of the system components online, I was just trying to gauge the total cost on the system and labor, not undercut or pricematch anyone. If I call up a local installer and tell them I want to have a Pentair Intellitouch system on my pool, am I looking at $3k? $4k? I'm just trying to avoid sticker shock, that's all.

Hi all- I'm thinking of automating my inground pool with attached spa, shared equipment. I'm currently running a Pentair Intelliflow pump (which I absolutely love!) and Raypak heater. I thought it'd be nice to come home from a long day of work to relax by firing up the spa by hitting a button: isolation valves to the pool close and the pump goes to its pre-programmed speed setting for the spa, heater fires up and spa light goes on. My Intelliflow has a port in the side for the Intellitouch system, which I've read in places that's the only system it's compatible with. Am I wrong? It'd also be nice to be able to control other things with it too, like solar heating control and a water feature (don't have a water feature, but like to put one in when I can afford the remodel), pool lights, etc. Is it possible to have a program for the pool sweep too? What kind of cost could I expect for this type of setup? Everything I've seen online just seems to sell bits and pieces and not complete kits.

Hi, PoolClown. I just wanted to give an update. I went ahead and ordered the board. I just installed it today. The instructions were easy and I had it done in 30 minutes. It definitely looks like it fixed my problem.

I've already tried replacing the ribbon cable/overlay/touchpad (it all came as one assembly) but still getting the same problem. Does this look like the upgraded board? http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/poolsupplies/replacementpoolparts/products/010253F.htm BTW- Thanks for all your help, Pool Clown. I really appreciate it.

Sorry about the quality of the pictures...it's raining like crazy here.

First, my pool was leaking, and now my heater's on the fritz! I have a Raypak heater model # P-R335A-EN that seems to have a mind of its own. When off, it'll turn on by itself and when on, it'll turn itself off. Sometimes, it changes the temperature settings! I've tried replacing the keypad/overlay, thinking that was the problem. Does anyone think it might be the PC board? I don't mind buying the board, but I want to be sure it's the problem considering it's a non-returnable item. BTW- Raypak customer service SUCKS!!! I called the 805-278-5300 number this morning, and all they would do is recommend a service company that could come out and look at the heater. The lady on the phone said they didn't have a technical support department....whaaaat?!?! What kind of a chicken outfit is that? I'm more than capable of installing the board, just tell me that's what the problem is!

Pool is usually pretty clean, even with all the wind and falling leaves around, so there's not a lot that usually gets stuck to the drain cover.(except dog hair...my 2 dogs shed like crazy and it ends up everywhere) I'm running an Intelliflo pump, so it's usually running at a very slow speed...plenty of suction, but not anything like a pump running at full speed. I *have* noticed however that the drain cover is not screwed down. The screws are broken off. And last year the pool sweep pushed the cover off. I pushed it back on with the vacuum brush, but I haven't had that happen this year. I'm not really sure about the groundwater situation around here. I think we got a few good days of rain so far, but nothing big. Is it possible that the hydrostatic valve may be wearing out? I read something somewhere that it should be changed every 5 years in a pool.

There's no question that the pool is old and in dire need of a replaster and retile. Tile is cracked in numerous places above the water line and the plaster's really badly etched and spotted. I keep the pool clean, so there's no debris that could be sticking to a hole or anything on the bottom. Home was purchased almost two years ago from the bank and I seriously doubt the previous owners took care of it. It's going to be a few years before I can afford to get it remodeled. I have a Sta-Rite System3 cartridge filter setup, so no backwash valve. Everything at the filter pad is nice and tight. It's just really weird that it always seems to leak around this time of year for 2 or 3 weeks then seals itself up. I guess I'll have to wait for it to start leaking again next year around Christmas...

Yeah, that's what the local pool man thinks too. He just stopped by because he knew I was having trouble to see what he could do. He dye tested the lights, return openings and skimmer. He thinks it's more than likely in the main drain... I'll keep you all updated when the leak tester comes over next week as to what he finds. Thought I'd give an update on what the leak detection company found: nothing. They pressure tested everything, dove in and checked the drains and lights, dye tested everything, etc.. Strangely enough, the leak has disappeared just like last year. I'm at a complete loss as to what could be going on, as is my pool guy. Well, as long as the leak is tight until next year same time, I guess..

Yeah, that's what the local pool man thinks too. He just stopped by because he knew I was having trouble to see what he could do. He dye tested the lights, return openings and skimmer. He thinks it's more than likely in the main drain... I'll keep you all updated when the leak tester comes over next week as to what he finds.

Translation: I aint gettin in that pool! It's too durn cold... I think he calls himself: Precision leak detection, guys name is Randy. Tell him what is happening (with the on again, off again leak). It's who we use. I called and left a message. I think he's way up in Antioch. Maybe too far for him to come, although his site says he serves the entire Bay area.. I just realized today that my little attached spillover spa is dropping at the same level as the pool. The spa and pool share the same common pump and filter. I never run the main drain in it unless I go for a soak (which has been a couple of months) so that valve's been closed for some time. There is also a light in the spa as well as the pool and they're both tied into the same circuit. I closed the return valve to the spa and marked the level in the spa as well. If it still continues to drop along the same level as the pool, then would you think maybe it's coming through the pool light conduit? BTW: Thanks for the tips and responding to my post. I really appreciate it.

I have a very unusual pool leak... Gunite pool was built in 1980, roughly 18k gallons with an attached 300 gallon spa. Two returns in the pool with a skimmer and main drain, the spa section has three returns with a drain. Automatic pool sweep with booster pump, fairly new heater, 1 1/2 year old Pentair Intelliflow pump. Two lights: one in the pool and one in the spa. So now that you know what type of setup I have, here's the problem: Last year same exact time in December, I noticed that the water level in the pool was dropping a lot quicker than normal. Usually I would only have to fill once a week during the summer. I was losing anywhere from 1" to 1 1/2" a day. It was never a constant rate of loss, and I got the same results whether or not the filter was running. I tried the "bucket test" and sure enough...the bucket level never dropped, but the level outside the bucket dropped an inch. I dye tested around the skimmer throat and skimmer, nada..nothing leaking. I did some looking of reviews online and came across American Leak Detection. I had the guy come out and paid him $275 to try to find out where the leak was. He actually spent two days trying to find it, but couldn't. He said the pool wasn't leaking, but he suspected that maybe the pool light might be leaking off and on. I should also add that he didn't check the main drain in the pool because he said he didn't think that was a problem. I kinda agree with that because if it was, I think I'd be losing a lot more water than I am due to the pressure at the bottom and I don't get any air in the pump when it's running or anything. He gave me a 90 day warranty and left. Amazingly enough, the leak stopped right after he left. The entire summer the pool was tight and no noticeable dropping of the level. However a week or two ago, I noticed the same problem: the leak is back. I'm losing anywhere from 1" to 1 3/4" of water a day. Tried the bucket test yesterday around 2PM and at 11:30 that night, the level dropped an inch. I'm at a loss and don't what to do. Is there anyone around the San Jose area that can recommend a good leak detection company? I just want this @##$# leak fixed without burning a hole in my pocket.

I can probably do it myself. I installed the new Intelliflow pump and replaced the shaft seal on the leaky booster pump: $18 part!

Oh yeah, totally helped me make a decision. Thanks for all your advice, guys. I'm going to go for the Raypak. I've read a lot of good things about them. One last question: any ideas where I could get a good deal on one? If it helps any, I live in the south San Jose area.

Probably. However, that does not mean definitely. It's enough of a possibility that I thought it was worthwhile mentioning. It sounds like the previous owners did not take very good care of the equipment. The poster did not provide enough detail about the plumbing setup to determine what replumbing would be necessary when the new heater is installed. Sorry I didn't elaborate on the setup. There is a diverting valve that I can move from skimmer/main drain suction in the pool to main drain suction in the spa. The returns for pool and spa branch off with isolation gate valves...so you can run the pool completely independent from the spa. I have only one pump (if you don't count the pool sweep pump. As far as being able to heat the spa and not the pool while filtering both at the same time, the current piping won't allow for that. It's an interesting idea though to pipe in bypasses, but it'd probably be a plumber's nightmare! And yeah...the pool was in sad shape, as I bought the house as a foreclosure.

Hey all- I moved into a house that has a 18,000-20,000 gallon inground pool with a totally beat Anthony natural gas pool heater (previous owner was using it as a trash can apparently, as it was full of old beer cans and paper plates). I removed and junked the heater and am looking to replace it with a smaller unit that will primarily take care of the 300-400 gallon attached spa. I'm not too concerned with heating the pool as I'm going to install a solar system for that. What's a good reliable brand that I should be looking at? Is it worth getting a unit with the nickel heat exchanger? And how big of a heater should I buy? Oh yeah...in case it matters, I have a Sta-Rite System 3 filter with a Pentair Intelliflow pump.