Another Leveling Post

[deadbolt67]

We have an existing concrete pad that slopes about 3/4" to 7/8" over the width of our spa (92"). From what I have read, this seems to be an acceptable level of slope. However, my basket is located on the up side of the slope and I don't like the way the water line looks.

I noticed a post regarding the pressure treated frame and pea gravel fix and this seems like the cheapest way to go. After some more searching I found this product and wanted to get opinions on it. It's called a Spa Level-R (http://thespalevel-r.com). Besides the price, it seems like a good concept; my only concern is the structural integrity. I like the idea of the adjustable gliders because our pad has a stamped slate type design.

Many thanks,

Michael

[quantumchromodynamics]

It is affordable - $575 retail plus shipping.

Pass.

I think you could make something better for less money.

If the pad was installed recently and it was supposed to be level, then you could ask the installer to fix it.

You could pour a new pad over the old one.

Maybe the water isn't level. Just add some water to the low side to balance it out. JK, LOL.

[Pool Clown]

I ripped 3/4 of an inch off a p/t 2X4 and put it under the low side. Then shimed the front and rear sides with door shims.

[TideJoe]

We have an existing concrete pad that slopes about 3/4" to 7/8" over the width of our spa (92"). From what I have read, this seems to be an acceptable level of slope. However, my basket is located on the up side of the slope and I don't like the way the water line looks.

I noticed a post regarding the pressure treated frame and pea gravel fix and this seems like the cheapest way to go. After some more searching I found this product and wanted to get opinions on it. It's called a Spa Level-R (http://thespalevel-r.com). Besides the price, it seems like a good concept; my only concern is the structural integrity. I like the idea of the adjustable gliders because our pad has a stamped slate type design.

Many thanks,

Michael

I had a similar situation and I framed up for a concrete pad the size of the tub. It's easy to do. Build the frame, make sure it's square, add reinforcement wire/bar, then have a truck come out and delivery the concrete (or mix it one bag at a time like I did). To smooth out\level the pad, just use a long, straight 2x4 and work it back and forth across the top of the frame.

I spent about $175 for the concrete (36 80lb bags), frame, and rebar.

[deadbolt67]

Thanks for the replies. I have to say, the cost of this item is just too much for what you get.

Unfortunately, we have a privacy fence around the patio, extended landscaping, etc., so doing any additional concrete work will be a problem.

Has anyone tried to pea graven and 2x4 box frame solution?

[TideJoe]

Thanks for the replies. I have to say, the cost of this item is just too much for what you get.

Unfortunately, we have a privacy fence around the patio, extended landscaping, etc., so doing any additional concrete work will be a problem.

Has anyone tried to pea graven and 2x4 box frame solution?

I have the same problem. I bought individual concrete bags and mixed them in a concrete mixer (you can rent one for $30-50) and wheeled them to the framed up new patio. It's a little work, but can be done for less than $200 in half a day.

[pbartha]

I had the same problem. My old spa (inherited) sat on the same pad. I hate things out of level so the old spa was shimmed. All of the research I did said, DO NOT SHIM !!! So my new tub was not to be shimmed. I didn't like the idea of shimming anyway.

I considered several options, grinding a spot level. Too expensive around $500

Pouring a level top on the existing pad. Too time consuming and minimum thickness requirements.

Build a frame level and fill with gravel, crushed 5/8 or 3/4. Ding, ding , ding, we have a winner.

Several advantages to this plan. No specific skill involved to working concrete. The supplies are cheap and easily acquired. I didn't have to engineer the thickness of the concrete to assure it wouldn't crack and leveling would require a form anyway so I would be building the frame if I poured concrete or not.

Drainage is better with crushed stone. Rain water and spillage would drain through the stone rather than pool around the base.

The more I thought about it the better I liked it.

So, 4 PT 2x4's. and 1/2 cubic yard of crushed stone. Scribe the 2x4's to the slope by laying a level on top of the 2x4's and shim them until they are level. Set a divider (compass) to the largest gap. Then drag the divider from the largest gap to where the 2x4 touches the ground leaving a pencil line that is opposite of the ground slope.

Cut the 2x4 following the line you drew.

Lay the 2x4 on the ground and place your level on top to check your work.

Screw the 2x4's together at the corners and then bolt to the concrete either through the 2x4 or use some steel brackets on the inside.

Fill with crushed stone and screed level with the top. Compact and repeat until you have a flat level pad.

Finish with a layer of roofing shingles, this provides a smooth surface and keeps the stone from exiting the enclosure.

I had mine done in 2hours and the tub set within 3.

Level on the rim of the tub shows dead on.

I am happy with the install and it should last a long time. This sure beats shimming and for the advantages explained above, this was my best choice.

Your requirements may differ, this was my experience.