KHJH Posted August 12, 2009 Report Share Posted August 12, 2009 We're re-doing our deck in conjunction with the purchse of our new tub. The tub will go on the ground and the deck will be built around it. The deck will only about 14" off the ground and I'm confused as to what kind of access I need. Getting the tub in place will be easy - the old deck will be gone and the new one won't be built until after the tub is in and sorted out. I'm told I need to have a 24 inch "trap door" on one side to get to the guts of the hot tub. Can we frame right up to the tub - which will mean that whoever has to work on the tub (hopefully not for a long time) will need to work around joists / frame to get to the tub? Or do they typically expect a "clear" opening to the tub? If so, what's the best way to do this? What about the other three sides? What kind of clearance do we need to leave on the other sides? I'll be discussing this more with my sales person, but I thought I'd see what folks out here have done in these situations and what insights you could share. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ps558 Posted August 13, 2009 Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 We're re-doing our deck in conjunction with the purchse of our new tub. The tub will go on the ground and the deck will be built around it. The deck will only about 14" off the ground and I'm confused as to what kind of access I need. Getting the tub in place will be easy - the old deck will be gone and the new one won't be built until after the tub is in and sorted out. I'm told I need to have a 24 inch "trap door" on one side to get to the guts of the hot tub. Can we frame right up to the tub - which will mean that whoever has to work on the tub (hopefully not for a long time) will need to work around joists / frame to get to the tub? Or do they typically expect a "clear" opening to the tub? If so, what's the best way to do this? What about the other three sides? What kind of clearance do we need to leave on the other sides? I'll be discussing this more with my sales person, but I thought I'd see what folks out here have done in these situations and what insights you could share. Thanks! The easy way to do this is were the trap door is going to be use joist hanger, but do not nail the joist to them. This way the trap door can be removed and the joist can lifted out for service Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHJH Posted August 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 Spa Guru, That's what I was thinking too...but wasn't sure if it was standard practice. and since I'm a total newbie, I figured I'd better ask. Thanks for the tip. Do I only need to do that on the control panel side or do I need similar access on the other sides as well? Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zirgalmnod Posted August 13, 2009 Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 Spa Guru, That's what I was thinking too...but wasn't sure if it was standard practice. and since I'm a total newbie, I figured I'd better ask. Thanks for the tip. Do I only need to do that on the control panel side or do I need similar access on the other sides as well? Thanks again! I am doing this too. I will use a trap door for the entire length of the side where the electronics and pumps are located. However in order to get access to the other 3 sides, I will build my deck so it can be removed so that the HT can be completely removed (when empty) so service can be done or in worst case, the HT can be transported for repairs elsewhere. Do not make deck etc. so complicated so it can´t be removed / redone. Also you may want to change model / size of HT without having to start all over with the deck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimpur Posted August 13, 2009 Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 Our HS man has a deck man that he recommended to us when we were starting from scratch, removing a beautiful (but too-close-to-the-house) live oak tree and replacing it with a new deck (composite lumber) and hot tub. Taking our general ideas, these 2 guys put their heads together and designed a fabulous set-up for us. It's a 2-level deck, angled in such a way that the tub "looks" mostly recessed, but it's actually open and free on the 2 "back sides" of the lower level. We learned that placement is EVERYTHING. We have complete privacy on both sides from the neighbors. They did have to build in a trap door, as the control side of the tub butts up to one of the high sides of the deck. But they did it in such a way that it is practically unnoticeable, and when the cover is open, it is unobtrusive (it opens and rests on the lower deck) and gives us additional privacy. Anyway, with some forward thinking and planning and some creative angles, we were totally satisfied with our finished outdoor paradise. We ain't DIY'ers, and I much preferred leaving this work to these professionals. They had to do some excavation work where the tree was, run all the electrical, etc. They knew what they were doing, and I appreciated that. Will try to get some pics posted. You know, I really thought I'd miss that oak tree.......nah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHJH Posted August 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 I am doing this too. I will use a trap door for the entire length of the side where the electronics and pumps are located. However in order to get access to the other 3 sides, I will build my deck so it can be removed so that the HT can be completely removed (when empty) so service can be done or in worst case, the HT can be transported for repairs elsewhere. Do not make deck etc. so complicated so it can´t be removed / redone. Also you may want to change model / size of HT without having to start all over with the deck. How "deep" are you making the "trap door" for you access panel? I've heard 18" is acceptable, but I've also heard 24"? What about the other three sides? I'm assuming they can be considerably smaller? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glid Posted August 13, 2009 Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 I made removable 2 foot panels, one 4 feet and one 8 feet to go along the notched corner of my deck against the hot tub. The deck is two tone, pictureframed and the panels match. I chamfered the inside of the notch to come to the tangent of the corner of my tub and have long bevelled edges in my 2 foot panels. Details! Since they were on the outside edge, I bolted them to the rim joist with half inch diameter bolts and use a couple post blocks with 4 x 4 to hold up the canterliever. It came out sturdy with plenty of room to get to the access panels in the tub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ps558 Posted August 13, 2009 Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 Spa Guru, That's what I was thinking too...but wasn't sure if it was standard practice. and since I'm a total newbie, I figured I'd better ask. Thanks for the tip. Do I only need to do that on the control panel side or do I need similar access on the other sides as well? Thanks again! It would be nice to have access to all sides of the spa, but sometimes it does not work out that way with building a deck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimpur Posted August 14, 2009 Report Share Posted August 14, 2009 HS Vista/2-level Deck Trap door....... Composite Lumber Deck and Rails and finally, The SECRET Color....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfixit Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 Sounds like you are on the right track. Future repair or removeal is possible, so, yes keep that in mind. Something to consider also is the direction of the panels on the skirt. Notice on the tub in the pics above the skirt has vertical slats- be sure not to block them in so that they cannot be removed. On occasion a tub will spring a leak and the only way to access it is to remove a portion of the skirt. A while back I had a client with that exact problem and I was unable to repair it because the tub was built into a deck 30" and I could not get the verticals off or remove the tub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHJH Posted August 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2009 Sounds like you are on the right track. Future repair or removeal is possible, so, yes keep that in mind. Something to consider also is the direction of the panels on the skirt. Notice on the tub in the pics above the skirt has vertical slats- be sure not to block them in so that they cannot be removed. On occasion a tub will spring a leak and the only way to access it is to remove a portion of the skirt. A while back I had a client with that exact problem and I was unable to repair it because the tub was built into a deck 30" and I could not get the verticals off or remove the tub. From what I've read, all I need to do is move (or remove) any panel screws that would be inaccessible once the deck is in place. I'll have to size that up once the tub is on site - and before the deck goes in - but I think that should do the trick. Thanks for the info - I think I'm piecing it together and will have it all sorted out before the tub goes in and the deck gets installed. Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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