tsoheq Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 Hi all, Greetings. My pool is about 18,000 gallons, 8.5ft on deep end, has 1.5HP Sta-rite pump, Polaris booster pump and cleaner. It also has a 48sq ft DE filter system. Pump and filter inlets/outlets are 2" but my suction pipes are 1.5" from skimmer/bottom/spa (there are only two, and I can't tell which is which) meet just before the pump. I think the skimmer and bottom are connected together because when I close one of the valve and flush water using a garden hose through the skimmer, debris seem to float up from the bottom of pool, so I think 1.5" pipe is correct. It has a spa, but it is not connected to a pump, so it is not used (just water)... good for very small kids to play in. No heater. Here are some questions: 1. The pump hums and then circuit is cut off. Is the pump dead or is something stuck (eg. impeller)? Is it easy to disasemble the pump to find out what is wrong. 2. If the pump needs to be replaced, is the Intelliflo the best option for energy efficiency? This one does not require separate controller, as some of the other ones require controllers that are expensive! I think my setup is simple, so I don't want to have to pay for expensive controllers. 3. If I get the Intelliflo, does it need to run in high speed when the booster pump comes on for cleaning, or can it run in low speed all the time? 3. Anyway, it also seems that I might even be able to downsize my pump (due to pipe size limitation) and still get some energy savings. Any comments? Is this a better router than the Intellifo since it is much less expensive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ps558 Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 Hi all, Greetings. My pool is about 18,000 gallons, 8.5ft on deep end, has 1.5HP Sta-rite pump, Polaris booster pump and cleaner. It also has a 48sq ft DE filter system. Pump and filter inlets/outlets are 2" but my suction pipes are 1.5" from skimmer/bottom/spa (there are only two, and I can't tell which is which) meet just before the pump. I think the skimmer and bottom are connected together because when I close one of the valve and flush water using a garden hose through the skimmer, debris seem to float up from the bottom of pool, so I think 1.5" pipe is correct. It has a spa, but it is not connected to a pump, so it is not used (just water)... good for very small kids to play in. No heater. Here are some questions: 1. The pump hums and then circuit is cut off. Is the pump dead or is something stuck (eg. impeller)? Is it easy to disasemble the pump to find out what is wrong. 2. If the pump needs to be replaced, is the Intelliflo the best option for energy efficiency? This one does not require separate controller, as some of the other ones require controllers that are expensive! I think my setup is simple, so I don't want to have to pay for expensive controllers. 3. If I get the Intelliflo, does it need to run in high speed when the booster pump comes on for cleaning, or can it run in low speed all the time? 3. Anyway, it also seems that I might even be able to downsize my pump (due to pipe size limitation) and still get some energy savings. Any comments? Is this a better router than the Intellifo since it is much less expensive? 1. It sounds like the pump siezed up. There should be a steel band with a black handle or nut. If you remove this band you will be able to remove the pump motor/ impeller assembly from the basket housing for inspection. 2. The intelliflo pump has features you can to increase speed to run pressure side clenaers like Polaris booster pumps. The polaris needs 28-32 PSI to operate correctly. 3. 1.5 hp is good you should be no lower than a 1 hp pump and to downgrade the exsisting pump you will need a new impeller, seal as well as the motor. All in all if you want to be more energy efficient for least amount of cost, you can get a dual speed motor instead of a computer controlled pump. It has a high speed of 3450 RPM and then a low speed of 1725, but you have to change the speed manually. The Pentair and Hayward are not much different in price. Hayward Control is not mounted to the motor like Pentair you would have to pick which one meets your needs and future needs http://www.pentairpool.com/whatsnew/intelli_pumps.htm http://www.haywardnet.com/inground/product...Star_Energy.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZMermaid Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 If you want more efficiency from your pump certainly you can change out the entire pump, re-do impellars, etc. Sounds like you just need a new/rebuild motor given that you get a hum and circuit cut-off. Another possibility is the circuit breaker may need new pole - rarer, but possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsoheq Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 OK, so I managed to separate the thing (which has a metal ring) and I was able to turn the impeller with my hand... doesn't seem stuck at all. However, when I try to put the thing together, there is a gap. I tried to push, even knocking it a bit, but couldn't push it completely. Is that normal? Anyway, when I restarted, it turns a bit, I see some water moving through the glass, hums, and then circuit cuts off. After a few tries, I think I smelled something. Does that mean that it is toast? I did open up the electrical cap and everything looks good... no burn marks. So, does that mean the motor is gone now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coo6776 Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 OK, so I managed to separate the thing (which has a metal ring) and I was able to turn the impeller with my hand... doesn't seem stuck at all. However, when I try to put the thing together, there is a gap. I tried to push, even knocking it a bit, but couldn't push it completely. Is that normal? Anyway, when I restarted, it turns a bit, I see some water moving through the glass, hums, and then circuit cuts off. After a few tries, I think I smelled something. Does that mean that it is toast? I did open up the electrical cap and everything looks good... no burn marks. So, does that mean the motor is gone now? Yes, it sounds like the motor is bad. The motor may have gotten water damage, usually caused by the shaft seal failing. You may notice some water damage on the motor where it meets the wet-end. So a new motor and shaft seal is what you will need if everything else looks good on the pump and i would just stick with the 1.5 hp it wont save you that much money if you down grade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsoheq Posted April 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Yes, it sounds like the motor is bad. The motor may have gotten water damage, usually caused by the shaft seal failing. You may notice some water damage on the motor where it meets the wet-end. So a new motor and shaft seal is what you will need if everything else looks good on the pump and i would just stick with the 1.5 hp it wont save you that much money if you down grade. Thanks.... Indeed, this is a route I am seriously considering. I believe it is possible to change it to a 2-speed. However, how do I control it, assuming that I get a new/additional timer that can do hi/lo? Anyone have any experience with this? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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