AZMermaid

If you have a colored liner, yes. It is an acid and as any concentrated, slow dissolving acid will do, it can start thinning the vinyl (as chemgeek explained) and the color on the vinyl is usually surface, and doesn't go completely through so it will look "bleached", or might have thinned the liner. I'd take a dive and check the liner.

Looks like they gave you the price of the "Basic Package" added permits which are necessary - Ask them about the dig. The other items look like they are "options" which you can add or not. Find out EXACTLY what is included in the "Basic Package" (Usually around Phoenix that means 80' perimeter, filter (which is usually very very small - I call them "silver bullets") 2-3 steps, tile (the cheap stuff) 3/4hp pump, basic light, 2 surface returns, and maybe a vac port, and minimum decking 1.5' around perimeter). Make sure you check it out carefully, and get more than one bid.

What is going on here? I would appreciate any advice that I can get to corect this problem. Thank You. If the airbleed in filter is A-OK, it may not be the filter at all. If there is no water leaking on the pressure side or return lines (or filter of course), check for a leak on the suction side of the pump (where water goes into the pump) A suction side "leak" will usually pull air into the pump, so you won't usually see water leakage while the system is running, but might notice some water around the pipe to pump as soon as you turn the pump off.

Congratulations on your new pool!!! Chlorine and Acid are the basics, and likely all you will need for a while. Nearly all of these products are the same wherever you purchase them. Check the labels to be sure of actual content. Test the pool regularly, and about every 2-3 months take a water sample in to Leslie's for a more thorough check. If you run into problems, this site is a great resource on how to handle algae, phosphates, TDS, CYA, etc., which likely won't be an issue for you in the near future, if you keep things in balance. Good Luck, Happy Swimming!

When you do open the Chlorinator, does it appear that the tabs have erroded - how many tabs are you putting in per week? What is hte chlorinator setting.

Could be it was acid washed, not rinsed well and possibly not properly restarted. What is the pH,Alk? Make sure pH and ALK are not too low, brush, brush, brush - Made sure to backwash well. You may need to do this several days in a row. Almost like starting a resurfaced pool.

Pull and check the backwash piston and make sure all o-rings are in good shape, and there is nothing else in there allowing the water and DE to go back to the drain and up.

Have you checked connections at switch and junction box. Could also be the switch - if the lite is on an X-10 switch, it may be getting interfereance from a neighboring X-10.

Do you mean CYA (Cyanuric Acid) levels are over 100ppm, or CA (Calcium). And when you say "way over", what is the reading. Depending on your area, you can go a little higher (up to about 150) with some tolerance. Whether 4 years is reasonable for a pool drain is also depends on your area. Before you dump the water, I would test for TDS, Free and Total Chlorine levels, current pH and Alk. It's not unusual for the chlorine levels to take a dive when the weather heats up, particularly once the water starts getting warmer.

Check your manifold and make sure you don't have any cracks or breaks. Phosphate removers are really tough on DE and Cartridge filters. Usually it will affect the grids, too much pressure on material and causing breaks. If you're very very lucky, the pressure may have caused the grids to push up and down, if the fittings weren't tight enough.

If the sand filter is brand new, you won't reduce the effectiveness by backwashing. If you have a lot of dirt/debris that you are trying to vacuum in, then it might clog quicker than regular. It sound like since you're getting some good suction at the beginning of the vacuum, you just have an awful lot of debris. Is it possible for you to vacuum to waste from a port at the pump?

Sounds like the air relief at the top of the filter is open. There is probably a know on it to close relief when water starts coming out.

Sorry, hit a wrong key! What type of filter do you have? What's the pressure reading? It may need cleaning, or in the case of sand, it may need replacing. Also, check your phosphate levels and TDS.

Based on your information, and with the obvious caviat that we all have our personal or professional preferences regarding equipment (I prefer Pentair), here are some options: 1hp Pentair WF pump For filters, since you want to reduce your maintenance, there are cartridge: Filters better than sand, but not as well as DE. You are correct, with backwashing and having to recharge, etc, there will be less maintenance with Cartridge. However, cartridges need to be cleaned periodically - 2-3 times per year on average depending on debris volume. Recs: Pentair CCP240 or Starite S7M120 or there's sand filter - no it doesn't filter down to the nano-microns, but for residential use they are really great and super low mainenance. Backwash periodically, roll up hose, no recharging, sand lasts a long time 6-10 years based on debris. Since you are using the Dolphin (They really are great ), I'm guessing your debris is pretty well undercontrol. Rec: Sta-rite Sand Dollar SD80 I'm certain other's will have recommendations as well throughout the week.

If we understand correctly, you have a Baracuda that plugs into the wall. When you vac from skimmer all is well. If all returns (lines to pool) are open, and everything works fine when you manually vac from skimmer, the problem is likely a clog in the suction line (pipe itself) from the cleaner port to the pump. To check this remove the cleaner from the wall port and make sure the vac-lock is completely open. Turn on your equipment and then turn the suction valve so cleaner suction is completely open and you are pulling only from the cleaner port. You should immediately be able to tell if you are not getting any action. If flow stops or significantly there is probably a clog in the suction pipe. You will want to have that blown out with CO2 - DON'T TRY DOING THIS WITH A WATER HOSE! If you have a pool tech who can do this it is probably best. If the problem is cured by blowing out the line, you might want to consider a leaf canister for the cleaner to prevent debris from clogging the line again. Please let us know how things are coming along.

In order to help you size a filter and pump we need to know how much water you're moving. How many gallons of water in your pool, how far from the pool is the equipment?

The elevated spa probably does have at least one, possibly two return lines coming from the pool side. This is why when you have everything in "pool mode" you get an overflow from from spa to the pool. That is how the spa gets benefits of chemicals in the pool. So, it is highly likely the filter pressure relief leak was causing your problem. Without the seal the water as getting through the check valve, then doing what water does, seeking its lowest level, and going to the pool. When you are running in "spa mode" you are only circulating water from spa-to-spa, with no additional chemicals being added.

If you want more efficiency from your pump certainly you can change out the entire pump, re-do impellars, etc. Sounds like you just need a new/rebuild motor given that you get a hum and circuit cut-off. Another possibility is the circuit breaker may need new pole - rarer, but possible.

Of course the Sense & Dispense is very new, and will likely have a lot of bugs to be worked out. If you are a homeowner buying for your personal use, I wouldn't suggest any pH and Orp control. These types of systems are usually for commercial pools with high and continuous bather loads. I'm betting there will be continuing calibration of the system required, and likely won't save you any time on pool maintenance for a small pool. Not to mention the C02, etc that will need monitoring as well.

My personal preference for a pole is the Dually, strong, easy to extend and mine has taken a few hits from the garage door, and still going strong for about 3 years.

There's really not a lot of help to offer if the green's already been taken care of. You're probably dealing with an enforcement guy who isn't aware of what he's actually enforcing, but gets to throw his weight around. Probably not a good idea to tell him he's full of ----. Now that you can see the drain, you should probably be okay. Have a great sparkling pool summer.

In Arizona a green pool (residential or commercial) is against the law. Neighbors are turning in neighbors all over. When code enforcement (Vector Control) comes out they might give you a certain number of days to clean it up (and usually do) but they don't have to. If they choose to fine you the first offense is $500.00 and you have to clear it up. If there is a second offense, within 2-5 years, you get a $2000.00 to $5000.00 fine and JAIL TIME!!!

In Arizona a green pool (residential or commercial) is against the law. Neighbors are turning in neighbors all over. When code enforcement (Vector Control) comes out they might give you a certain number of days to clean it up (and usually do) but they don't have to. If they choose to fine you the first offense is $500.00 and you have to clear it up. If there is a second offense, within 2-5 years, you get a $2000.00 to $5000.00 fine and JAIL TIME!!!