Electrical Q: Hard Wiring 110v Spa?

[Flot]

Guys -

I have a Hot Springs that came wired for 110v. GFI plug on the end etc. The recommended wiring is a 20A GFI breaker, a normal outlet, and the GFI plug outside.

Now just because of the layout of my house (main panel -> interior subpanel) it was easy for me to run a 20A 110v circuit to the spa location. However, in doing this I realized, why not just hard wire the spa to 110v?

To do this I presume I would need to move the GFI breaker to a sub panel right next to the spa. However, then my wiring goes (main panel -> interior subpanel w/20 amp non gfi -> exterior subpanel w/ 20a gfi) which seems a bit silly and frankly I'm not sure if it's to code. It would be cumbersome for me to go direct from my main panel to the spa panel.

Is it "legit" for me to bridge from my interior panel to a 110v spa box? Does using the gfi breaker externally make more sense than the 110v gfi cord I have now? The spa weighs 700 lbs empty for god's sake, it's not like I really need a removable plug on it...

[usguys spa service]

Guys -

I have a Hot Springs that came wired for 110v. GFI plug on the end etc. The recommended wiring is a 20A GFI breaker, a normal outlet, and the GFI plug outside.

Now just because of the layout of my house (main panel -> interior subpanel) it was easy for me to run a 20A 110v circuit to the spa location. However, in doing this I realized, why not just hard wire the spa to 110v?

To do this I presume I would need to move the GFI breaker to a sub panel right next to the spa. However, then my wiring goes (main panel -> interior subpanel w/20 amp non gfi -> exterior subpanel w/ 20a gfi) which seems a bit silly and frankly I'm not sure if it's to code. It would be cumbersome for me to go direct from my main panel to the spa panel.

Is it "legit" for me to bridge from my interior panel to a 110v spa box? Does using the gfi breaker externally make more sense than the 110v gfi cord I have now? The spa weighs 700 lbs empty for god's sake, it's not like I really need a removable plug on it...

if you are going to all the work i suggest you upgrade and wire the spa for 220v if possible. your spa will heat faster . it will cost a bit more to set up but won't notice much difference on a monthly cost basis. waiting for a 110v spa to heat up to desired temp and maintain temp really sucks. i need my spa and i want it now!

[Pool Clown]

Why not put a gfi breaker at the int sub panel? Then just run your wires right to the spa. You will spend a little more for a gfi breaker. Seems like a cleaner easier way.

[Dr. Spa]

You could also go GFCI breaker in the main box, to a disconnect 5'+ from the spa, to the spa.

BTW, you HAVE to have a breaker feeding a subpanel.

[Flot]

You could also go GFCI breaker in the main box, to a disconnect 5'+ from the spa, to the spa.

BTW, you HAVE to have a breaker feeding a subpanel.

Understood. When I think "disconnect" I think breaker. I suppose that does not have to be the case?

To be clear, what I have now is a 20A GFI in the interior panel, running to an exterior 20a plug. Really I just want to remove the plug and hardwire it. However, there is a bit of "peace of mind" in having the GFI on the plug so that I can easily test it while outside. So now I have 2 GFIs in series which is what the manual recommends for a plug-in unit.

What are my options for an outside 110v "disconnect" if I choose to go the hardwire route? Sounds like that makes more sense, and just leave the interior circuit breaker GFI.

Also: I live in south florida, so I am not too concerned about heating quickly. Plan A was to run the 50a 220v circuit, but once I realized the spa would run on 110 it seemed silly to go to all that extra work when I had an extra 20a 110v circuit lying around unused in approx the right location.

[Flot]

Guys, maybe I am missing something, but I finally read the 2005 code - and for a single family home it seemed to me the disconnect was not required?

Regardless I am thinking now of hooking it up in the same fashion as a water heater, with a 20a / DPDT switch in a waterproof box. I'll mount that box on the wall 5-10' from the spa and then run conduit through the wall below. Does that seem to cover everything? GFI breaker back in the interior panel.

[Pool Clown]

How about this, Instead of a w/t switch, Make it a w/t gfi outlet? You'll be doing everything everyone want's you to do. And you will have an outlet. Your disconnect is the test button on the gfi.

[Flot]

How about this, Instead of a w/t switch, Make it a w/t gfi outlet? You'll be doing everything everyone want's you to do. And you will have an outlet. Your disconnect is the test button on the gfi.

Clown, I actually just got finished. I put a 30a DPDT switch (aka "disconnect") outside on the wall, and ran 1/2" conduit from there to the spa. I had the GFI outlet outside originally - the main problem with this is that the huge box + plug was an eyesore, and since it was relatively close to my outdoor hose connection, I really wasn't comfortable having a disconnectable plug there. On top of all that the cord was a real hazard for tripping etc. It was just a mess. The new location of the switch is out of the way of any potential water splashage (and of course is in a waterproof box) and as far as I can determine everything is 100% up to code, and I have nice plastic (painted) hard conduit keeping everything nice and tidy. Once the conduit is inside the spa enclosure I used waterproof flex to go to the control box. This also let me get away with using my existing circuit without having any splices in the wire, which I prefer.

I do wish I could test the GFI from outside, but I feel like having a good GFI breaker in my inside box out of the elements etc is probably much more reliable anyway. I will have to get creative and figure out a way to "test" the GFI for real...

[Pool Clown]

My bad, I didn't mean gfi w/outlet so you could plug the spa back in. I meant just like you did only gfi outlet instead of switch. box would be the same size. Oh well, as long as it works for you.