chart_boy Posted November 27, 2008 Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 Question for the Cal Spa pro's... I've got a 10yr old Cal Spa that has been working fine but just started to leak when the second pump turns on. I've been able to trace the leak to the piping and T at the top of the tub where they plumbing meets into a T to divert 2nd pump water from the sides to the whirlpool center bottom (volcano jet). When just the low pump is on, no leaks: Just when the water flows from the 2nd pump. Any idea how best to fix? Is it the water T or a bad hose? How big of headache is this fix going to be? Hping to use tub tonight... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobbly Posted November 28, 2008 Report Share Posted November 28, 2008 Question for the Cal Spa pro's... I've got a 10yr old Cal Spa that has been working fine but just started to leak when the second pump turns on. I've been able to trace the leak to the piping and T at the top of the tub where they plumbing meets into a T to divert 2nd pump water from the sides to the whirlpool center bottom (volcano jet). When just the low pump is on, no leaks: Just when the water flows from the 2nd pump. Any idea how best to fix? Is it the water T or a bad hose? How big of headache is this fix going to be? Hping to use tub tonight... Not a Cal Spa expert. However, my hot tub started leaking from both the diverter valves. The covers for the valves on the top of the tub were removed with large Channellocks. Found a broken o-ring on one valve and a missing gasket on the cover of the other valve. The leaks appeared to come from the fittings, but closer examination showed they originated from the top of the tub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chart_boy Posted November 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2008 Question for the Cal Spa pro's... I've got a 10yr old Cal Spa that has been working fine but just started to leak when the second pump turns on. I've been able to trace the leak to the piping and T at the top of the tub where they plumbing meets into a T to divert 2nd pump water from the sides to the whirlpool center bottom (volcano jet). When just the low pump is on, no leaks: Just when the water flows from the 2nd pump. Any idea how best to fix? Is it the water T or a bad hose? How big of headache is this fix going to be? Hping to use tub tonight... Not a Cal Spa expert. However, my hot tub started leaking from both the diverter valves. The covers for the valves on the top of the tub were removed with large Channellocks. Found a broken o-ring on one valve and a missing gasket on the cover of the other valve. The leaks appeared to come from the fittings, but closer examination showed they originated from the top of the tub. Thanks Wobbly, I'll pick-up a new O ring and give that a shot. I was able to get the diverter unscrewed and can see the piping from topside. The O ring does look worn, maybe that IS the problem. Stay tuned. Still looking for a plan B... Any other ideas anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chart_boy Posted November 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2008 Question for the Cal Spa pro's... I've got a 10yr old Cal Spa that has been working fine but just started to leak when the second pump turns on. I've been able to trace the leak to the piping and T at the top of the tub where they plumbing meets into a T to divert 2nd pump water from the sides to the whirlpool center bottom (volcano jet). When just the low pump is on, no leaks: Just when the water flows from the 2nd pump. Any idea how best to fix? Is it the water T or a bad hose? How big of headache is this fix going to be? Hping to use tub tonight... Not a Cal Spa expert. However, my hot tub started leaking from both the diverter valves. The covers for the valves on the top of the tub were removed with large Channellocks. Found a broken o-ring on one valve and a missing gasket on the cover of the other valve. The leaks appeared to come from the fittings, but closer examination showed they originated from the top of the tub. Thanks Wobbly, I'll pick-up a new O ring and give that a shot. I was able to get the diverter unscrewed and can see the piping from topside. The O ring does look worn, maybe that IS the problem. Stay tuned. Still looking for a plan B... Any other ideas anyone? Well, no luck on the new O ring. I spoke to a service tech and he wants $800 service call + $800/hr, + parts. Sounds like a bad hose. Think I have no choice at this time, will wait a day or two to see if anyone has other ideas. Open for suggestions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chart_boy Posted November 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2008 Question for the Cal Spa pro's... I've got a 10yr old Cal Spa that has been working fine but just started to leak when the second pump turns on. I've been able to trace the leak to the piping and T at the top of the tub where they plumbing meets into a T to divert 2nd pump water from the sides to the whirlpool center bottom (volcano jet). When just the low pump is on, no leaks: Just when the water flows from the 2nd pump. Any idea how best to fix? Is it the water T or a bad hose? How big of headache is this fix going to be? Hping to use tub tonight... Not a Cal Spa expert. However, my hot tub started leaking from both the diverter valves. The covers for the valves on the top of the tub were removed with large Channellocks. Found a broken o-ring on one valve and a missing gasket on the cover of the other valve. The leaks appeared to come from the fittings, but closer examination showed they originated from the top of the tub. Thanks Wobbly, I'll pick-up a new O ring and give that a shot. I was able to get the diverter unscrewed and can see the piping from topside. The O ring does look worn, maybe that IS the problem. Stay tuned. Still looking for a plan B... Any other ideas anyone? Well, no luck on the new O ring. I spoke to a service tech and he wants $80 service call + $80/hr, + parts. Sounds like a bad hose. Think I have no choice at this time, will wait a day or two to see if anyone has other ideas. Open for suggestions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIALDA Posted November 28, 2008 Report Share Posted November 28, 2008 Question for the Cal Spa pro's... I've got a 10yr old Cal Spa that has been working fine but just started to leak when the second pump turns on. I've been able to trace the leak to the piping and T at the top of the tub where they plumbing meets into a T to divert 2nd pump water from the sides to the whirlpool center bottom (volcano jet). When just the low pump is on, no leaks: Just when the water flows from the 2nd pump. Any idea how best to fix? Is it the water T or a bad hose? How big of headache is this fix going to be? Hping to use tub tonight... Not a Cal Spa expert. However, my hot tub started leaking from both the diverter valves. The covers for the valves on the top of the tub were removed with large Channellocks. Found a broken o-ring on one valve and a missing gasket on the cover of the other valve. The leaks appeared to come from the fittings, but closer examination showed they originated from the top of the tub. Thanks Wobbly, I'll pick-up a new O ring and give that a shot. I was able to get the diverter unscrewed and can see the piping from topside. The O ring does look worn, maybe that IS the problem. Stay tuned. Still looking for a plan B... Any other ideas anyone? Well, no luck on the new O ring. I spoke to a service tech and he wants $800 service call + $800/hr, + parts. Sounds like a bad hose. Think I have no choice at this time, will wait a day or two to see if anyone has other ideas. Open for suggestions... I thought I was in the wrong business, but now I know I can charge $800.00 for a service call and another $ 800 for every hour.. Damn, I have been loosing out..Ok honey, we can go to Hawaii next yaer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobbly Posted November 29, 2008 Report Share Posted November 29, 2008 If you can get a vacuum on the joint it may be possible to suck IPS primer first, and then IPS flexible glue, into the joint without removing the flexible pipe. It might be possible to block off the flex pipe with rags or compressible balls to apply the vacuum through the valve opening with the valve removed. The glue and primer would be applied from below the shell. The vacuum would be applied with a shop vac from above the shell I've just read about this technique on the web. I can't vouch for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALASKA RECREATIONAL Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 If you can get a vacuum on the joint it may be possible to suck IPS primer first, and then IPS flexible glue, into the joint without removing the flexible pipe. It might be possible to block off the flex pipe with rags or compressible balls to apply the vacuum through the valve opening with the valve removed. The glue and primer would be applied from below the shell. The vacuum would be applied with a shop vac from above the shell I've just read about this technique on the web. I can't vouch for it. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Just be careful about the flammable fumes, cause the vacuum could explode. Don't laugh cause that is what happened to my 5 HP sears shopvac. The vacuum thing does work, just be careful... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fms Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 If you can get a vacuum on the joint it may be possible to suck IPS primer first, and then IPS flexible glue, into the joint without removing the flexible pipe. It might be possible to block off the flex pipe with rags or compressible balls to apply the vacuum through the valve opening with the valve removed. The glue and primer would be applied from below the shell. The vacuum would be applied with a shop vac from above the shell I've just read about this technique on the web. I can't vouch for it. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Just be careful about the flammable fumes, cause the vacuum could explode. Don't laugh cause that is what happened to my 5 HP sears shopvac. The vacuum thing does work, just be careful... I had an old hot tub that had a bad leak where two pipes were originally glued together. I bought some PC 7 or PC 9 epoxy (don't remember which it was) and slapped it on the joint. I don't think it will ever leak there again. Sure beats $800.00. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobbly Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 If you can get a vacuum on the joint it may be possible to suck IPS primer first, and then IPS flexible glue, into the joint without removing the flexible pipe. It might be possible to block off the flex pipe with rags or compressible balls to apply the vacuum through the valve opening with the valve removed. The glue and primer would be applied from below the shell. The vacuum would be applied with a shop vac from above the shell I've just read about this technique on the web. I can't vouch for it. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Just be careful about the flammable fumes, cause the vacuum could explode. Don't laugh cause that is what happened to my 5 HP sears shopvac. The vacuum thing does work, just be careful... I had an old hot tub that had a bad leak where two pipes were originally glued together. I bought some PC 7 or PC 9 epoxy (don't remember which it was) and slapped it on the joint. I don't think it will ever leak there again. Sure beats $800.00. Hope this helps. The strongest adhesive that I've found is 3M's 08101 Structural Adhesive. It's a two part urethane. Sold by auto body supply stores. Used it on 2-1/2" PVC connectors to the pool sand filter and also rebuilt the filter's fiberglass base with it. Don't get it on your hands! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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