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Not a Cal Spa expert. However, my hot tub started leaking from both the diverter valves. The covers for the valves on the top of the tub were removed with large Channellocks. Found a broken o-ring on one valve and a missing gasket on the cover of the other valve. The leaks appeared to come from the fittings, but closer examination showed they originated from the top of the tub. Thanks Wobbly, I'll pick-up a new O ring and give that a shot. I was able to get the diverter unscrewed and can see the piping from topside. The O ring does look worn, maybe that IS the problem. Stay tuned. Still looking for a plan B... Any other ideas anyone? Well, no luck on the new O ring. I spoke to a service tech and he wants $80 service call + $80/hr, + parts. Sounds like a bad hose. Think I have no choice at this time, will wait a day or two to see if anyone has other ideas. Open for suggestions...

Not a Cal Spa expert. However, my hot tub started leaking from both the diverter valves. The covers for the valves on the top of the tub were removed with large Channellocks. Found a broken o-ring on one valve and a missing gasket on the cover of the other valve. The leaks appeared to come from the fittings, but closer examination showed they originated from the top of the tub. Thanks Wobbly, I'll pick-up a new O ring and give that a shot. I was able to get the diverter unscrewed and can see the piping from topside. The O ring does look worn, maybe that IS the problem. Stay tuned. Still looking for a plan B... Any other ideas anyone? Well, no luck on the new O ring. I spoke to a service tech and he wants $800 service call + $800/hr, + parts. Sounds like a bad hose. Think I have no choice at this time, will wait a day or two to see if anyone has other ideas. Open for suggestions...

Not a Cal Spa expert. However, my hot tub started leaking from both the diverter valves. The covers for the valves on the top of the tub were removed with large Channellocks. Found a broken o-ring on one valve and a missing gasket on the cover of the other valve. The leaks appeared to come from the fittings, but closer examination showed they originated from the top of the tub. Thanks Wobbly, I'll pick-up a new O ring and give that a shot. I was able to get the diverter unscrewed and can see the piping from topside. The O ring does look worn, maybe that IS the problem. Stay tuned. Still looking for a plan B... Any other ideas anyone?

I rolled my tub down the street & up into the backyard using 8' 2" PVC piping... I used 3 pieces. Just like rolling stones to build the pyramid's. Worked great and only needed 2 people for an 8x8 Cal Spa. Good luck.

Question for the Cal Spa pro's... I've got a 10yr old Cal Spa that has been working fine but just started to leak when the second pump turns on. I've been able to trace the leak to the piping and T at the top of the tub where they plumbing meets into a T to divert 2nd pump water from the sides to the whirlpool center bottom (volcano jet). When just the low pump is on, no leaks: Just when the water flows from the 2nd pump. Any idea how best to fix? Is it the water T or a bad hose? How big of headache is this fix going to be? Hping to use tub tonight...

Check to make sure your set at F2 or F4. If it's at FC, F6, or F8 you may neeed additional motors that you do not have. See if that helps...

jlo... My tub seems to have leveld off and the water is now a constant 102 (as set). It did through a couple of OH codes, but when I pushed the juts button on the topside control panel it went off and worked fine ever since. It has now been a couple weeks or so. As far as my filter cartridge, I rinse it of about once every couple weeks or so. I did have a problem with the heater working on low speed - it only would work on high due to the 2speed moter being bad. With the heater only working on high, the laws of thermodynamics effectedt the ability to obtain and hold a steady water temp as desird on the controls. So, I replaced the motor contacts (after some calls to GE & others to find the parts) and it now heats on low speed & works fine. Cost me ~ $15 +s/h for the motor contacts... Better than $300 to replace the motor. Thanks for the note and keep me posted on the update. Cold in Detroit now, getting ready for a nice soak.

I'd suggest you look at the following: 1) Is the filter timing (FC, F2, F4, F6, FC, etc...) set to the proper code? I found on my CalSpa if it was set at F6, F8, or FC, it would overheat the water and shut-off. This is because it requires an additional motor for those cycles. 2) Is the heater water filtering to fast? I've been told the laws of Thermodynamics will come into play if the water is filtering to fast by the heater. I learned my low speed on the 2 speed motor was bad; which is why I have to do step 3 below. 2) Next, I would check your motor start swith/contacts. Mine had a problem there, which was causing Start Cap's to blow and the conacts needed to be replaced. It was tough finding the contacts, but they were $13 which beats $250 just for the replacement motor! good luck...

Get 'er done and enjoy the winter! I put in a 8x8 used CalSpa over a year ago. I got it for free from a neighbor. I upgraded the house electrical (200amp), which had to be done anyway (I just needed an excuse) and it cost $750 from a good friend, with materials. It cost another $475 for the 220 & GFI for the tub. I poured the 8x8 slab for $250. Just bought a new cover ($349) and lift ($149). Chemicals run about $30/mo. Electric is about $35; more in the cold Detroit winters. The tub sits about 50' from the back of the house, on the side of the detached garrage - right off the 20x15 paver patio. Real peace & quiet with privacy. Cold walk out in the winter, but worth every step. Hated the work, didn't want to spend the money; enjoy the tub 3-4x per week. Kids like it to!

Thanks for the link. My spa must still be a few years older (1999?). I'm going to try and check again tonight. When I checked the water temperature this morning (after dialing in the switch a little on the heater manifild), the water temp was at 106. Can I meter the switch to see if it is working properly? If so, is it NO or NC? I'm open for any other ideas? I thought I'd turn the switch in further to see if it helps. Thanks...

Pathfinder - thanks for the pointer(s). I just checked the knob (controls a switch by the heater manifold) you mentioned, and it was almost all the way turned out (adjusted). So, I gave it a couple of turns to dial it in. I hope that helps - I'll re-check tomorrow. As far as the manual, I found the site & a number to call. But, I still don't know what model (or year) I have. The controller has Premier and Genisis as potential options, but I can't see the moel or s/n. Thanks.

I received a Cal Spa (8 person) FREE from a neighbor over a year ago. Overall, it has been working well and my investment is basically nill... I've only bought a new cover. Since I did not receive any operating manuals, I am fumbling around with the controls. I've learned the F2, F4, F6, F8, and FC codes from Cal Spa's current manuals. I get a OH code (I assume Over Heating) and the tub gets 108+. I have it set on F2 (sometimes F4: I understand F8 or FC can be a problem unless there is a special motor). However, the tub still gets to 105+. Any help in troubleshooting why it doesn't stop at 100 (current setting)? Also, I'd love to find out where I can get an operation manual for a 1998~2001 model spa. I'm not sure what one I have! So, two problems: 1) need to read a manual, and; 2) how do I stop the water from getting above desired settings. Thanks...