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Hot Tub Arriving This Week...


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okay, before other people start reading this list of what i have written. I have never owned a hot tub or a pool before. I don't even own one now, it's arriving soon though. i'm a high school chemistry teacher, so hopefully i'll pick up on the water chemistry quickly, although please be forgiving, i'm only a freshly graduated first-year chem teacher. i hate being confused about things i should understand. and this hot tub chemistry is on my list of things that frustrate me. i realize that perhaps things will be easier when i have a hot tub, have the owner's manual, and have chemical bottles/test strips in front of me. but i like to be prepared. i've read this forum, and have put together a list of things i have learned - OR think that i have learned. some of it is me filling in the blanks from posts that don't specifically say what i've said. i'm wondering if those who know things could read over my list of do's and don'ts and make adjustments to any misconceptions i may have. i'm intending to use bromine because it's a used spa that is coming with all the owners old stuff and he used bromine. some things on my list may be true for bromine but not chlorine, or vice-versa. i appreciate all of your help, i realize this post is long.

DO NOT:

- leave control for air jets in open position while spa is not in use

- use bleach if there is no CYA in water, otherwise it is fine

- dump chemicals in one area, make sure they are spread out in the water

- make fun of someone else for using chlorine or bromine, whichever one you don’t use. Some people think chlorine smells, some think bromine does, but if you are using correctly there should not really be a smell from either. They both are carcinogens, bromine more so, but in the concentrations used in a properly cared for hot tub – probably not a big deal. Studies show men who use hot tubs w/bromine have lower sperm count, but when out of hot tub for a month, sperm count raises. Bromine is known to be less demanding, although using chlorine isn’t really demanding either. You just have to find what works for you.

- Use tub if there is no chlorine or bromine reading

- Shock the hot tub only and expect it to be healthy.

- Use trichlor, or any other made-for-pool chemical, in a hot tub

- Expect all brands of test strips to be the same

- Expect an ozonator, ecopur, or other mineral system to work as a sanitizer.

- Ask questions about spa chemicals on here w/o mentioning how many gallons your spa holds and how often/how many people use it

- Switch from bromine to chlorine without draining the spa

DO: (im not so sure about these)..they’re more like questions?

- check chemical levels (chlorine/bromine, CYA, total alkalinity, pH) weekly?

- Shock the spa after each heavy use and once a week..you can use a non-chlorine shock as long as you have a chlorine/bromine sanitizing system, but don’t just depend on the mps to do the sanitizing. (perhaps you need to shock more often, when using chlorine?)

- Have other chemicals on hand such as defoamer, and a clarifier, enzyme product, calcium up, phosphate remover all of which will not get used as often as the ones cited above.

- Rinse the filter out monthly or more often if heavy use – in some cases by hosing off, in some cases by rinsing in a filter cleanser.

- Invest in a taylor k-2006 test kit or tf100 from tftestkits? These are often more accurate than test strips

- Drain tub every 4 months, or 3 months if heavy user.

- Circulate water when adding chemicals (jets on)

- If you get a rash or have itchy nipples, let chemgeek know because he has some sort of list going.

- Switch from chlorine to bromine without draining the spa

For a 350-450 gallon tub (does this matter?) keep chemicals at the following levels:

pH should be 7.2-7.8

alkalinity should be between 60 – 180

chlorine/bromine should be 3-5 ppm

calcium hardness should be 200-400 ppm

pH should be adjusted last, because the above chemicals all shift ph. If adjusted first, then after all others are fixed, then ph will be off. . (is this true, or did I make it up?)

------------------

again, none of what i said above is fact to my knowledge, i'm just writing all of my (mis)conceptions down in a list so that it can be corrected/amended by those who understand water chemistry -which i feel clueless about. i would hate to be responsible for giving some false information.

thank you!

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okay, before other people start reading this list of what i have written. I have never owned a hot tub or a pool before. I don't even own one now, it's arriving soon though. i'm a high school chemistry teacher, so hopefully i'll pick up on the water chemistry quickly, although please be forgiving, i'm only a freshly graduated first-year chem teacher. i hate being confused about things i should understand. and this hot tub chemistry is on my list of things that frustrate me. i realize that perhaps things will be easier when i have a hot tub, have the owner's manual, and have chemical bottles/test strips in front of me. but i like to be prepared. i've read this forum, and have put together a list of things i have learned - OR think that i have learned. some of it is me filling in the blanks from posts that don't specifically say what i've said. i'm wondering if those who know things could read over my list of do's and don'ts and make adjustments to any misconceptions i may have. i'm intending to use bromine because it's a used spa that is coming with all the owners old stuff and he used bromine. some things on my list may be true for bromine but not chlorine, or vice-versa. i appreciate all of your help, i realize this post is long.

DO NOT:

- leave control for air jets in open position while spa is not in use

- use bleach if there is no CYA in water, otherwise it is fine

- dump chemicals in one area, make sure they are spread out in the water

- make fun of someone else for using chlorine or bromine, whichever one you don’t use. Some people think chlorine smells, some think bromine does, but if you are using correctly there should not really be a smell from either. They both are carcinogens, bromine more so, but in the concentrations used in a properly cared for hot tub – probably not a big deal. Studies show men who use hot tubs w/bromine have lower sperm count, but when out of hot tub for a month, sperm count raises. Bromine is known to be less demanding, although using chlorine isn’t really demanding either. You just have to find what works for you.

- Use tub if there is no chlorine or bromine reading

- Shock the hot tub only and expect it to be healthy.

- Use trichlor, or any other made-for-pool chemical, in a hot tub

- Expect all brands of test strips to be the same

- Expect an ozonator, ecopur, or other mineral system to work as a sanitizer.

- Ask questions about spa chemicals on here w/o mentioning how many gallons your spa holds and how often/how many people use it

- Switch from bromine to chlorine without draining the spa

DO: (im not so sure about these)..they’re more like questions?

- check chemical levels (chlorine/bromine, CYA, total alkalinity, pH) weekly?

- Shock the spa after each heavy use and once a week..you can use a non-chlorine shock as long as you have a chlorine/bromine sanitizing system, but don’t just depend on the mps to do the sanitizing. (perhaps you need to shock more often, when using chlorine?)

- Have other chemicals on hand such as defoamer, and a clarifier, enzyme product, calcium up, phosphate remover all of which will not get used as often as the ones cited above.

- Rinse the filter out monthly or more often if heavy use – in some cases by hosing off, in some cases by rinsing in a filter cleanser.

- Invest in a taylor k-2006 test kit or tf100 from tftestkits? These are often more accurate than test strips

- Drain tub every 4 months, or 3 months if heavy user.

- Circulate water when adding chemicals (jets on)

- If you get a rash or have itchy nipples, let chemgeek know because he has some sort of list going.

- Switch from chlorine to bromine without draining the spa

For a 350-450 gallon tub (does this matter?) keep chemicals at the following levels:

pH should be 7.2-7.8

alkalinity should be between 60 – 180

chlorine/bromine should be 3-5 ppm

calcium hardness should be 200-400 ppm

pH should be adjusted last, because the above chemicals all shift ph. If adjusted first, then after all others are fixed, then ph will be off. . (is this true, or did I make it up?)

------------------

again, none of what i said above is fact to my knowledge, i'm just writing all of my (mis)conceptions down in a list so that it can be corrected/amended by those who understand water chemistry -which i feel clueless about. i would hate to be responsible for giving some false information.

thank you!

Not considering switching to BaquaSpa or similar baguanide system? I know that it is often criticized, but if one does it correctly just as you inferred for the Bromine or Chlorine, it is easy and wonderful.

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Not considering switching to BaquaSpa or similar baguanide system? I know that it is often criticized, but if one does it correctly just as you inferred for the Bromine or Chlorine, it is easy and wonderful.

only because i don't know what it is :). I'll check it out.

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Looks like you have things down pretty well....

Ideal on chems readings.....

1-3 Chlorine

3-5 Bromine

80-120 for ALK 180 is a bit high

you want 7.2-7.6 is ideal...7.8 is starting to push

I would stay toward the 200-250 side for calcium if you have to add it to bring it up.

You can switch from chlorine to bromine without changing the water.

ALK and PH will be your hardest to adjust both in the right ranges, they do weird things :huh: I always make sure my PH is correct and depending on which system you run, Alk may be a bit high or a bit low. It wont hurt anything as long as it is not way to high or low.

Read up an Baqa before you make a decision on that system and ask your dealer if the hot tub manufacture suggests it or not. Some manufactures do not want you to use it because it eats away certain plastics.

Don't over think the chemical process....my conceptions....chemists and doctors are the hardest to get to do the water chemistry properly....way over think :D Don't take it personally :D ...no really, its not hard at all and once you figure out hoe your family is effecting the water chemistry on a daily/weekly basis it will become easy...then you throw that big party and it all goes south!! :rolleyes:

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You are a quick study!

The most daily useful thing I learned here is don't worry about the TA being low if the pH is stable in a good range. You can wind up chasing a wild goose dumping in baking soda and chasing it with acids....

The second most daily useful thing I learned here is that all bromine tablet floaters are not alike. Having a good one you can adjust that stays adjusted (ie. with a locking ring) makes a huge difference in controlling the sanitizer level!

I researched biguanide at one point -- our dealer had been going to start us off with that, but ran out of kits and started us on bromine (which I've been happy with). The main disadvantage seems to be that after a period of correct use, in some cases as long as a number of years, tubs can develop "peanut butter" goo, which is hard to eradicate. I don't remember what the explanation was, but it seemed to be something peculiar to biguanide use.

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We recommend to all of our customers that they change the hot tub water every week during heavy use. Is this something you have coinsidered as opposed to shocking the hot tub? If your hot tub is being used heavily, it can get buildup within the filters and jets that can eventually lead to equipment breaking. We recommend a through cleaning at least every month which includes removing your hot tub filters and grates and getting in there to fight the grime.

I'd be curious what other peoples thoughts are on weekly cleanings & monthly "BLASTINGS"

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As a newbie... I have a few questions regarding the first post.

1 - leave control for air jets in open position while spa is not in use: why?

2 - Use tub if there is no chlorine or bromine reading: We usually put chlorine in after each use...so let's say we used it last night, put a tablespoon of Chlorine in and use it again tonight, the reading might be low but we still get in. I thought this wasn't really an issue?? Just make sure to put some in afterwards to kill the buggers!

Thanks!

Chantal

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As a newbie... I have a few questions regarding the first post.

1 - leave control for air jets in open position while spa is not in use: why?

2 - Use tub if there is no chlorine or bromine reading: We usually put chlorine in after each use...so let's say we used it last night, put a tablespoon of Chlorine in and use it again tonight, the reading might be low but we still get in. I thought this wasn't really an issue?? Just make sure to put some in afterwards to kill the buggers!

Thanks!

Chantal

i'm a newbie too, so keep that in mind...the reason i put #1 on the "do not" list is because air from the outside will get into your spa while the cover is down, this air will mix into your water and cool it, making your spa have to work harder to keep your water heated and raising your energy bill.

and my understanding of #2 is that low is okay but no reading is not okay.

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As a newbie... I have a few questions regarding the first post.

1 - leave control for air jets in open position while spa is not in use: why?

2 - Use tub if there is no chlorine or bromine reading: We usually put chlorine in after each use...so let's say we used it last night, put a tablespoon of Chlorine in and use it again tonight, the reading might be low but we still get in. I thought this wasn't really an issue?? Just make sure to put some in afterwards to kill the buggers!

Thanks!

Chantal

I think you may be confused.....that was on the DO NOT list. She had 2 separate lists up there.

You should have at least a 0.5 risdual of chlorine left before using it. Creepy buggers can start growing in minutes and multiply rapidly, so if it was a 0, and you brought something in with you, by the time you get out of the tub it could multiply to an alarming level. Low reading should be ok, as long as you add chlorine when you are done.

Public spas can not ever drop below 3 because of this.

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