poseidonpools

Just checking to see how the levels are after implementing the changes noted above.

The best way is to drain the pool water to below the crack. Take a dremel or other hand tool and make a valley in the crack (so it looks like a "V"). Fill in the crack with epoxy resin & make sure the area is FULLY sealed. Wait until the area dries then sand it down to level - 200 / 300 grit wet dry paper works best. To match the color of the hull, I recommend finding a gel coat enamel You should be able to find the right paint at a Home Depot or Lowes. That should do it!

Have you taken the water to a swimming pool shop for a water test? It would be better to find out what is growing in the pool and combat that instead of continuously cleaning the pool.

Here is the Pentair website: http://www.pentairpool.com/products/ They sell replacement products for their entire line if thats what you need. I believe the swirl jet nozzle is under $10.

We met a pool builder in your area at a builders convention. I'd have to look through my files for it if you havent already found it. I can't vouch for them but the representative I met really knew about the industry. Are you looking for above ground, inground, gunite, vinyl, or fiberglass?

We recommend to all of our customers that they change the hot tub water every week during heavy use. Is this something you have coinsidered as opposed to shocking the hot tub? If your hot tub is being used heavily, it can get buildup within the filters and jets that can eventually lead to equipment breaking. We recommend a through cleaning at least every month which includes removing your hot tub filters and grates and getting in there to fight the grime. I'd be curious what other peoples thoughts are on weekly cleanings & monthly "BLASTINGS"

You are exactly right. Any rains or precipitation will change the chemistry of your swimming pool, sometimes drastically. Another factor is the heat of the swimming pool or any coverage. Pool covers, when on the pool when it is not in use, will trap some chemicals and help keep the water properly balanced. Heat and sun is also another danger to swimming pool water chemistry. Heat will evaporate the water & the chemicals disrupting your balance. Other factors that can effect chemistry are pool use, activity, number of people in the pool, etc. We recommend to all of our customers that they check the pol chemistry every day during the summer, sometimes twice a day depending on the use of the swimming pool. These tests can be done with a standard ph / chlorine dropper test. It is also advisable to get a pool water specialist to come and test your pool water at least every month for more exact tests and levels of other chemical presences such as chlorine. If you are trying to cut costs, many pool shops offer free pool water analysis. Alternatively, you can purchase a massive text kit which will test for everything you need.

Try the not so fun job of inground pool ownership - vacuuming out the debris from the bottom - or do it the eady way, call a professional maintenance service to clean the debris.

There are advantages and disadvantages to all systems - if they are one unit compartmentalized boxes or multi segmented systems. Engineering, power efficiency, and space consumption usually all rank better with one unit systems, however, if problems arise, multiple segmented systems are usually much easier to diagnose and repair than their compact system cousins. Our company has not had experience with the Pentair or the Jandy units but we have installed quite a few Hayward (Goldline Control) systems. We have installed many Pro Logic and Aqua Plus units (both from Hayward) with little to no problems during installation, maintenance, and upkeep. Saltwater chlorination is a relatively 'new' animal in the swimming pool industry and it is slowly gaining popularity. Hayward has always been a great brand for us and continues to perform. That being said, as they are relitavely new products, there may be bugs - though I am not personally aware of any. As with any installation, do your research - this forum is a great place to start!

We used this product in 2003 & 2004 with many customer complaints. Needless to say, we have not used the product since. At any rate, we have run into that code many times. The code you are referring to (E05) can link back to two elements in the propane heater - the gas exhaust sensor or the main control. We have had luck clearing this code with a sensor replacement and giving the air lines a through cleaning. This unit is very tempermental and anything clogging the vents can give you an error code. I have seen vines enter in vents, debris, rocks, etc. that gave the e05 code response. Just make sure everything is immaculate in there and the code shoulc clear. Here is a link to the manual on the system - http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/MaxEThermOM.pdf - handy to have in a jam!