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Found 17 results

  1. Hi All, We bought a Canadian Spa Swift Current V2 around 2 years ago. It's not had a great deal of use, but been well maintained (it's become a hobby) and is stored as per the guidance during the winter. We have numerous issues with it, however most recently and since getting back out of storage, is a persistent flow, or lack of, issue. It seems as if the pump circulating the water (the one that contains the impeller I assume) doesn't kick in, causing insufficient flow and then the PCU overheats throwing an E5 error. We can not clear this, unless we take it apart, remove the impeller and reseat it... although I'm not entirely sure what that achieves. We've done this 4 or so times. 2 occasions its just randomly stopped working. The other two have been when we stop the jets before they're scheduled to finish their cycle. It's all very strange, and I'm at a loss of what to try or do. We've tried to speak to Canadian Spa (in the UK) however their customer service is terrible. When I contacted them a few months back, before stripping the unit myself, they didn't reply for 2 months. Then more recently when I emailed asking for advice, they rang up and made it clear that they hadn't read my email or were aware of the things we had tried. Even when explaining on the phone they weren't listening. They want to charge £60 to courier it too them, then £60 to replace the impeller (that may not actually be the issue), then send it back 'working'. My concern is that I can get it 'working', only for it to die a few weeks/months down the line. Has anyone has similar issues, or can suggest a way to resolve it. I can't seem to find the full circulation pump online to buy it myself and it seems pointless to just replace the impeller (although happy to be corrected). Ive stripped the unit almost completely to ensure theres no muck in any of the pipes. I use an anti limescale solution once a week since we initially noticed a build up within the heat exchange, so that shouldn't be an issue. [EDIT] I've seen another topic that mentioned a damaged impeller. Whilst the grinding noise etc do also occur although we can't remember if that was just general noise (its not that loud), the impeller itself seems to be in good condition? Hopefully someone can offer some guidance, it would be very much appreciated 🤞 Thankyou
  2. 2010 Hot Springs Sovereign II, ll1M2085, with new IQ2020 Eagle Control Box Not heating and I don't think the circulation pump is operating. Flashing Power/Ready lights on the control panel. Open the Control Box pictured below, left to right: 1. D21 Red led light is on; 2. PWR ON led is green and flashing 3. LIMIT OK led is lit sold green Cleaned filters, checked for airlocks. Pulled the water lines off both the heater and the circ. pump and water is flowing. Did this to remove any airlock and check for an junk jammed in the pump. Seemed fine. Feeling the circulation pump it doesn't appear to be running, I would expect a slight humm and no water movement in the tub. Do these led light indicators tell a story of a bad circulation pump? How do I do a double check on the circulation pump to make sure it's the problem or an unfixable problem before buying a new one? Here's a picture of the Control Box.
  3. Older Jacuzzi or similar spas using Laing E10 or similar circulating pumps - my E10 Laing ceramic pump stopped “cold” with a “FLO” error after only two years; one or two clicks, then no joy. Drained the tub, pulled the pump, disassembled & inspected; looks like the outlet housing o-ring leaked by, allowing water to invade the magnetic induction housing; oxides contaminated the grooved carbide socket on the base of the impeller, wore it down just a few thousands, just enough to cause interference between the stainless pocket induction shell & the mag stator attached to the impeller, This usually means a new pump ($170) or at least an impeller assy ($80), both which may be obsolete - however- after dressing the shell & statue sockey/basin with scotchbrite, I examined the white ceramic ball, no wear; however, the grooved carbide socket on the base of the impeller was worn just a few thousands, enough to create interference, noise & binding. Used a fine point file to redefine the 6 water grooves in the carbide socket; a light hammer + 3/8 punch on top of the steel core of the impeller set the carbide bearing back down 5/1000, created the clearance again for the ceramic & carbide ball & socket to float once again with clearance when water was introduced. Might give me another year, but I hate spending money... cheers, happy hot tubbing...
  4. Greetings all, Newbie here with a question regarding circulation pumps. I have a 2011 Calspa (costco edition) that uses one main pump (primary and secondary jets) and another pump (circulation pump). The main pump is one of those funky PRC Dually that are obsolete but still working fine. The circulation pump is a Laing E10 pump (230 Volts). The problem is that I need to replace the circulation pump every 2 years or so. It just dies! Is this unusual? I think its a 24/7 continuous running pump. If this is unusual, then what are some things you could recommend me testing? I appreciate any and all advice.
  5. I have an older Sundance spa that came with my vacation home. When visiting this weekend, I found an "FL O" error on the tub and it would not heat. (All other functions, blowers, lights etc work). I took out the circulation pump, it appeared to be stuck and then it freed up. I refitted it but it still did not run. I also tested the pressure sensor and tripped it into closing which started the heat but still no water flow (Stopped that after 5 seconds to avoid any burn-out/over heating etc). I'm pretty certain the circulation pump needs replacing, but I want to check it first but am not sure if it constantly runs or not - If it does then I know I should expect a constant voltage to it whilst the spa is on. Thus, my question is: Should the circulation pump be constantly running even when the spa is not heating? Any advice would be great, thanks
  6. I have an older blue ridge spa and the circulation pump will not stay running. I removed the plumbing and checked it and it pumps water. It ran before, I drained the tub about half way and added water then turned it back on and all it does now is run for about 5 seconds and turns off, for about 10 seconds then back on and so forth. Any ideas.
  7. Hey Everyone, First off I'd like to start by saying I'm a new member on this forum and also a new hot tub owner as of last week. So here's the situation, a friend of ours gave us her old hot tub which is a 2001 Sundance Caprio. We got the hot tub home, hooked up the power, and filled it up. Everything seemed to be working fine, the jets were running the control panel lit up and there were no errors. I put the cover on and came out a few hours later to find that the temperature had only gone up a degree or two and the jets had been on most of that time. My first thoughts were that the heater must be broken so I hooked the heater up the control panels power directly and it heated up almost instantly so I ruled out that. When inside the control box I noticed that the connection to the circuit board where the heater was coming out was black and fried. I then went online and purchased a new circuit board which will be her in a few days. Another concern I have is that I'm not sure how the circulation pump works, I can definitely here it humming but I'm not sure if it's actually running or not. The circulation pump definitely gets really hot and even heats up the water lines coming out of it. I don't see any water coming out on the inside of the hot tub, is there a dedicated jet or is it the big round thing on the side my the feet thats about 4-5 inches in diameter and has a bunch of tiny holes in it? Or maybe the pressure just isn't enough to be visible from the surface of the hot tub. Also, would the circulation pump still operate even if the heater wasn't working? Sorry, I know I have a lot of questions I just don't want to put a $250 circuit board in and then have it fry because something else was messed up originally. I've read a lot of forums and topics based on the Sundance Caprio and it seems this is a common problem for the circuit board to go after 10+ years. Thanks for any help or insight anyone could give into my situation.
  8. I need some help re-installing my external Raypak gas heater on my hot tub. I originally had a 2003 Master Spa Legend LS800 that I had spliced the 2" output of the circ pump to the gas heater, then back through the internal heater. That meant I could used either heater for the tub at any time. Unfortunately, the breaker tripped a couple of years ago during the winter (during a power outage/surge) and ended up freezing the pipes. I have replaced the tub with a 2015 Master Spa Healthy Living tub. Unfortunately, I cannot plumb it the same way for a couple of reasons: The circ pump on the new tub is a 'high efficiency' pump with only a 1 1/4" output which would not give me the required flow rate on the gas heater. They have also reversed the flow so that the circ pump "pulls' from the heater, so both heaters would be kicking in if the I plumbed it in the same spot. I am looking at adding an additional pump just for the gas heater that would only kick in when the heater is running. My questions are: What pump should I get (size, brand)? I prefer to keep this one 110v and use the same 2" in/out as the heater. Where should I splice into in the line of the tub? The heater is physically located on the left side towards the rear of the tub, looking from the control panel. There is an empty space inside this area with room for a pump. Should I install a fireman switch on the pump, to keep it circulating after the heater shuts off? How would i wire it to the Raypak? Is another option to install it inline with one of the 2 main pumps and forgo the additional pump? What are the +/- of that? The tub uses a Balboa BP501 series controller. Thanks for your help.
  9. Hi all, I recently took a chance on paying to move a free 2001 Hot Springs Vanguard. The owners said the “pump and heater” were replaced in the “last few years.” They also said there was a small leak from a “pump or hose.” I figured as long as it’s drained I might as well do a few replacements/repairs that are likely culprits for the leak. Reading around it seemed like the pump is a likely source, so I though I’d just look to see which pump --- circulation or jet --- was recently replaced, and then go ahead and replace the other one (figuring it was probably due after 14 years.) But, looking inside, neither pump seems particularly new, and both pumps match the specs on the original spa: a Wavemaster 9000 jet pump and a Silentflo 5000 circ pump. I do think the heater was replaced but more like 7 years ago than “a few.” So this raises some questions: - any thoughts on either pump as a more likely source of a leak? I read that a new pump seal is a good, cheap first fix for a potential leak but I’m not sure which pump or how to find the correct seal for these older pumps. - any advice on a general strategy for repairs or tune ups to do *before* I get this thing wired up and filled up? Or do I need to just get it running and then try to diagnose any issues? - any other obvious red flags you can see in the pics below (hopefully clickable thumbnails)? Many thanks in advance for your thoughts!
  10. Ok....I have a 2004 Hot Springs Prodigy Spa. We used it one night, everything worked fine. The next day, it was cold. I took the heater board relay off and it was scorched. I replaced it. Now, I have no heat still. No blinking lights except on the new board (D9 LED but the parts supply store said as long as the green light is on next to it, ignore the blinking red light), tested the heaters ohms (10.3ohms), have power to everything except the red wire from the main board that jumpers over to the heater relay board.... The only thing I haven't changed is the circulation pump, which is working, and the thermistors...I'm at a loss.....
  11. I own a 2008 model of Balboa circuit board, Sundance spa. Circulation pump is Marathon Electric, Model 5kCP49UN9096X. Capacitor Model number is 24DB500B370PA. I haven't had any problems with it until now, so it's been a great learning curve on figuring out how to fix it, but very interesting too. The initial symptom was that the spa would not budge from the "PR" priming code, and then would just go to a HH code, that things had heated up due to no circulation, and it shut itself off, with the spa going into EC (economy) mode. The circulation pump does not even start humming. Thinking it might be some air, I tried some things to try and move it through. I turned off the power for a while, then turned it on, and didn't wait for the PR cycle. Instead I turned on the air jets, moved it into ST (standard) mode, and the heater would then kick on. The circulation pump would start running, and it would work fine. So it's not air. Two things I noticed: 1-The jets run for about 5 minutes before turning off on their own. If I don't again turn them on manually, the spa gives a DY or DR signal after a while. The circulation pump just seems to quit pushing water through to the heater, as the filter stops working. However, the circulation pump is humming-- it's just not pushing water through (so I turn it all off). 2-I can keep turning it on manually every 3-4 minutes, and it works just fine. Filter works, pump works, heater works. Something is wrong though, so I've been taking the whole thing apart, and it all looks real good inside circuit board and heating unit. Pump moves, isn't clogged. So all of this points to the capacitor of the circulation pump. I have two pumps in this system. I am only looking at the one that's between the filter and the heat pump, not the air one on the other side. I thought I would be looking for a Start capacitor, but there is only one capacitor on this model, and it is a Run capacitor. I have two questions: Does the capacitor in this case serve as both a Run and Start? Given the Run works (because it still hums) I don't see how it's malfunctioning if that's the case (though it wouldn't be the first time something works beyond my comprehension). Or is there something on the circuit board (which looks great) that sends the start to the circulation pump that I am missing?I am going to order a new capacitor, as that's only $10. What sort of testing of the system can I do without water? Or, do I have to fill the spa all up before I get to see if swapping out a new capacitor is all that is needed? I'll update as I go along here, many thanks for any questions or help.
  12. Hello! I own a 2003 Master Spas Legend Series with 4 pumps (1 circ, 3 jet). Pump 3 (Therapy 3) will not run. I have done some troubleshooting and I have determined it is not the topside control (when it is on standby mode and I push therapy 3, it wakes the spa up but won't turn on the pump) and I know the pump works FOR SURE. Now for the circ pump- It won't run when Therapy 1 is on, but when its off, it works fine. I have no idea what is going on. Thank you! -5k
  13. Hi, My low speed circulation pump does not shut off when the timer clicks to the off position. Is this an sign that the timer is bad? Had just replaced the seals on the pump, and put it all back together, and this started. Wasn't doing it when I pulled out the motor/pump. This is an old 90's spa that has the 24 hour timer on it. Thanks.
  14. A few year old (4-5?) legends series lsx masterspas tub. It is throwing a few different codes, SnS, dr, then dry (and sometimes Ohh) I suspect these are all related, maybe a non working circ. pump? I have tried to bleed the circ pump, I have checked the head of the circ pump for ease of propeller spinning and no clog. I have turned power off for 5 minutes after each attempt, still not good. (I also started with trying to run without filters, which are clean, just in case was a simple flow issue) Symptoms are that it is not heating. All three pumps seems to work, 2 at both of their speeds, and pump three at its only speed. It does, sometimes, rapidly raise the detected temp. up to the 118 shut off limit, but not always. Water temp is in the 65-75 range right now, as it's not been working for a few days, and it's getting into the 40's-50's at night up here in New England. Upon opening the front, there is a small pump maid by "Laing" that says circ. pump, and I don't seem to see this running. But truthfully, I don't remember if my circ. pump ever ran on its own? Never really paid attention. It does connect directly to the heater tube tho, so being that the dr and dry codes mean not enough water in the heater tube, am I correct in assuming that it is not pushing water into the heater and should start by replacing this? I'd hate to replace it, to find that it's a sensor or something, since the other two codes point to them as well. .? Please help, I am unemployed and can't afford serious costly service reps, but my wife has a bad back and needs this tub working. Thanks in advance, John
  15. Hello all, this is my first post to this forum. Have a bit of a problem. My wife and I have a 2005 Hot Springs Prodigy (Model H) hot tub that has been working great for almost 2 years. Recently I started hearing a clicking noise coming from within the components compartment. At the same time our tub wasn't hot anymore, but only warm. The circulation pump and jets were working fine at that time. I opened the IQ2020 panel and heard the clicking coming from the heater board. I noticed that the white heater wire also was darkened, like it had shorted out and fried the wire & board. I did some testing with a multimeter and found that the black & white leads on the heater board weren't giving any volts. This heater board was the original 73355 board. Finding there was a newer heater board (74618), I ordered that and just received it yesterday. I installed the new board (old board had a burned circuit on backside) and hooked up all the wires as directed by the instructions. This included using the same white wire from the heater that was darkened, but I had cut the old connectors off. I got everything installed and in place, turned on the circ pump breaker and then the heater breaker, but unfortunately there is still a clicking noise... the same as before. The really bad thing now is that where the jets were working before I changed the heater board, now when I turn on the jets there is just a click and now the jets do not come on at all. This circ pump also is not pushing bubbles up. FYI - I did fill the tub before all of this through the ozone standpipe filter to ensure there wouldn't be any airlocks. Also, during all the testing I did not have any filters on. On the main circuit board, the LIM OK light is on and green and the HEATER ON light is also on and red. When I used the multimeter and tested voltage on the new heater board, I'm getting about 130v (where I was getting 0 on old board). When I tested the white and black wires coming from the heater, I am getting a sound from the multimeter. I'm at wits end with this... the heater is a Watkins No Fault. I'm not sure if a bad heater would cause all this, but as I mentioned earlier, the HEATER ON light is on and red, which I think means the tub is getting a good signal from the heater and thinks it's heating, but I could be wrong. Does anyone have any ideas of other things to try? My issues are: 1) the clicking noise when the heater breaker is turned on 2) the circ pump and jets are no longer working (multimeter is not getting any signal when tested on the main circuit board - I'm no genius on how to test circuits/electricity, but I will definitely test anything anyone has ideas on). Thank you for your time in reading this and any help you can provide.
  16. Hi everyone, I have a 95 Hot Springs Soverign that recently stopped heating. I found the first problem to be a clogged filter. To be sure, I removed the filter completely overnight and checked it in the morning and all was fine. A few days later I went to get in it and found the dreaded blinking red light. The tub is completely dead and I have NO FLOW from the circulation pump so I don't think it is a limit switch issue. I did disconnect and test both limit switches anyway. I get 14 ohms on one a 4 on the other. Should they be zero, or is this OK? (I don't mind replacing while I have it all apart as they are getting old anyway). Now on to the circulation pump. In testing voltage, I have 120 volts coming into the control box. Inside the box are several (what I believe to be) relays. These are black modules (Potter & Brumfield manufacturer name on the side) about the size of a few stacked domino's. The one that feeds power to the circulation pump shows 120 volts across the black and white wires going to it, but on the output side going to the circ pump, I get nothing. So I'm thinking this is the problem, but I'm wondering if there is more to the story. There are two additional brown wires going to the unit and I don't know their purpose so I'm not sure if the relay is open and not sending voltage to the pump for a reason or not. One thing I did not do, but can, is to bridge the wires across the relay just to verify that sending voltage to the pump will turn it on. I'm not exactly sure what that would tell me other than the pump works however. Any help would be appreciated!
  17. Does the circulation pump run 24/7 in these models (Sundance Chelsee and Marquis Promise) or only certain times of the day? I have been told two different things and need clarification.
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