RDspaguy

What did you do to correct the problem? Do you have pump 2 wired for the right voltage? If you had pump 2 wired for the wrong voltage you could have damaged it. Humming usually indicates a bad capacitor or locked rotor.

And dipswitch 5 and 9 are on.

I agree with canadaguy. It is hard to tell in the pic what goes where, but it appears that you have 2 different voltages for your 2 pumps. Check that those white wires are going to the right terminals for your equipment. You have 2 connected to the neutral for 120v and 3 to the red phase for 240v. Connections are above and below the main wire terminals where you connected power to the board.

Just the heater.

Canadaguy knows what he's talking about. Also, check dipswitch settings based on your new packs configuration, not just matching the original pack. Those made specifically for a certain brand can be different from generic replacement packs. There are 2 dipswitches that control the circulation behavior. Both must be in the proper position to work. Make sure equipment wiring is correct. I assume you just plugged in the old equipment plugs into the new pack. The wiring to the plugs may be different than the original as well, which is why you get new cords in the pack. And be sure to plug in according to the labels on the pack, not just in the same location. Again, wiring could be different.

Out of curiosity, what did you pay for it? I don't think that old trumpet heater has been available for some time now. Glad it has been replaced.

Try unplugging the heater wires at the board, with the power off, then restarting it with no heater. If it doesn't throw an error and the jets work it is a flow issue. If it still throws the error it is sensor or board related.

Also, do you have the ozone injector shown in the diagram? If so, you should see a fountain of bubbles coming from the heat return jet, not just a trickle bubbling up from it.

Right? He's sick... of working on that watkins spa.😂 To the OP. (That's "original poster") The link Canadianguy provided shows an equipment location diagram that shows the hi-limit on the heater. If you have the old trumpet heater with the big loop in the pipe you may want to have a look at page 12.

What is a DPO? By limit switches, I assume you mean the sensors, or thermistors as watkins calls them? The hi-limit switch, if it has one, will be in the end where the wires are attached. They are difficult to find, and many do not have one. I don't know enough off the top of my head to tell you which do or do not. Did this used spa seller who offers a warranty have this spa running at his location before you bought it?

Can you see water movement in the tub from the circulation pump? That valve being closed could have caused an air lock. If you do not see the water moving, turn it off and put your hose into or against the filter pipe and block it up around the hose with your hand or a small towel to try to force the air out with water pressure. Crack the fitting on the front of the pump to release air.

It is the cheapest option at this point, and testing them is necessary to determine if they are the cause, or if there is a bigger issue. And they are a common failure in spas of this type. That's why technicians carry a box full of every kind of sensor ever seen in a spa. At least us old ones do. Back in the day, a good digital multimeter capable of testing sensors would set you back a weeks pay. And the boss sure wasn't going to buy it. So you start collecting them from every replaced pack, frozen tub heading to the dump, trade-in, and warranty replacement you cross paths with. These days, a good digital meter is a half a days pay for an employee, and can test most sensors.

Are there valves that might have been closed during your project? What pack did you put in it? Did you confirm dipswitch settings?

Did you fill it through the filter inlet? It sounds like an air lock. Do you see water movement in the tub when the circ pump is running?

Try sensors. Have you located them on the heater? If you have a good ohm meter you can ohm them out. They should be within a few hundred ohms of each other, but I am not sure of the numbers. Will likely be tens of thousands of ohms, so you need a good digital meter. https://www.spapartsdepot.com/hot-springs-thermistor-control-ics-02-39530/ https://www.spapartsdepot.com/hot-springs-thermistor-hi-limit-ics-02-39525/

They can be hard to find. Usually on the side you cant see, may be a raised button or a flat rubber spot that must be pushed inward, may take a screwdriver. You will hear it click when it is reset. Be sure power is off while poking at it with a screwdriver. The sensors, I believe they call them thermistors, are located on the heater, with wires that run back to the board. One is temp, the other hi-limit. I replace them as a pair as a general rule. A picture of the equipment area and control board would help alot.

You can use mps to shock, just be aware of what it is doing to your balance. Has a very high alkalinity. I prefer to shock with chlorine because I know exactly how much to use based upon the current water conditions, and dichlor is nearly neutral in ph so it does not mess up my balance.

An oxidizer? What oxidizer, exactly? Nature 2 uses silver and copper to inhibit bacterial and algea growth in the water, much like an algeacide in a pool. It is compatible with dichlor. Balance alkalinity and ph and add 4 tsp dichlor at fill up. Add 1tsp plus 1/2 tsp per user after each use. Leave cover open for 30 minutes after. Test balance and chlorine weekly, looking for combined chlorine. Shock with dichlor if needed. Mine is always good, but I have ozone burning off my chlorine and chloramines. I hope this helps. Enjoy!

If you wired it correctly (I haven't checked) and it has good flow i would next plug in some sensors. This is where it becomes handy to have a tech looking at it, as most of us carry sensors for testing purposes. Is there a local supplier where you can get the sensors and return them if not needed? The packaging, if any, will have to be opened and sensors plugged in, but not installed, to test it. Otherwise, if you have a good tester, I will see if I can find readings on watkins sensors and you can ohm them out to see if they are bad.

By this diagram, the only light is the heat indicator light, which means the heater element has voltage to it. If it is not heating and this light is on it must be the element. I assume you have a cover on it to hold in the heat? How many gallons does it hold? Do you typically run it all year? Has anything been done to it recently, new heater, moved to new location, changed water, or such? Bad elements usually trip the gfi breaker. Is this heater on a gfi breaker?

You have a gecko pack, balboa sensors will not work in it. I hope you got the right ones. Balboa does not sell direct to consumer, and they only offer support for balboa products to balboa authorized service. They could not answer your questions about a gecko control system. They will refer you to supplier of your parts, where you bought it, for tech support. They are not direct to consumer and do not maintain a service center to handle consumer calls.

Most skin irritation in a hot tub is the result of ph and alkalinity. Chlorine, bromine, mps all affect ph balance. Continuous feed systems, such as floaters, inline feeders, tablets in the filter well, and such will cause a continuous drag on the ph that is difficult to counter with once-a-week balancing. Mps is high alkalinity, and is a generally inaccurate treatment, the amounts used having no direct correlation with the levels of chloramines in the water. I know of no way to remove mps except to drain it. In my tub, I use 1 tsp dichlor plus 1/2 tsp per user after each use. Adjust ph and alk as needed, which is seldom since dichlor is ph neutral. I also shock with dichlor if my test says I need to shock. Most of my shocking is done when I add my dichlor after use. I have ozone to dissipate chlorine, and enjoy clear, virtually chemical free water when I open my cover. This is the system I recommend to my customers as well, I have no complaints. I advise that you try it.

Put a small space heater or drop light with an old fashioned incandescent bulb in the equipment area and put the door back on. Glad you figured it out. Keep us posted.

What control system does it have? Can you post a pic of the control box, board, and topside controller?

Is it tripping the breaker?