RDspaguy

I love a happy ending.

Just like that? You didn't do anything, it just suddenly and inexplicably works? Hmmm... Well, I am glad you got it going. Be safe out there.

I urge you all to start a new thread so your problems can be addressed individually. We are happy to help, but one at a time please! We need some basic information about your spa so we know what we are dealing with. Unfortunately, there is not just one simple answer. The easiest thing to check is the filter cycle duration, so start there. If the problem continues, start a thread of your own and someone will help you.

Thats what I do. Because dichlor is ph neutral you will not be fighting your balance every week. But it is still important to check it weekly, small problems get big fast in a hot-tub, and ph is the leading cause of hot-tub repairs.

Get test strips for free and total cl. Tha amount of shock you use is determined by the difference between free and total cl. As a rule of thumb, I use 4tsp dichlor. If you have an ozonator you will rarely need to shock. Under normal bather load, you will not need to shock with this method as you are basically shocking after each use.

Your attachment didn't work. This is a buildup of bacteria feeding on accumulated contaminants in your spas pipes called biofilm. Use a spa flush product, drain and refill. Watch your sanitizer and ph. Sanitizers are only effective within a certain ph range, so if your ph is way off, your sanitizer does not work.

Been getting alot of this lately. This is copied from another thread I posted in. It is my recommended system to all of my customers and what I do in my own spa. Fill spa. Test alkalinity. Balance alkalinity to 80 to 120ppm , 100 being ideal. After alkalinity is adjusted and stable, at least 24 hours, test ph. Adjust ph 7.4 to 7.6. You should not have a chlorine or bromine reading in your spa except right after you add chlorine. Which should only be dichlor. Do not add liquid chlorine or any type of tablet. You are not concerned with what that reading is for now. 3-5 ppm is health dept requirement for PUBLIC spa. Unless you have constant use by everyone in the neighborhood, YOU DO NOT NEED THIS, it is only causing problems. Add 4 tsp of dichlor only AFTER ALK AND PH ARE BALANCED. Use it and enjoy. After each use add 1tsp plus 1/2 tsp per person in the spa of dichlor. Leave cover open for 30 minutes after to help prolong your cover life. Once each week check alk and ph, balance as needed. Check free cl and total cl, and shock as needed with dichlor. If free cl and total cl are the same or zero, you do not need to shock. You may add the nature 2 stick whenever you choose. I would leave it out for now to help eliminate it as a source for your discomfort. Rinse filters monthly. Clean them throughly every 3 to 6 months. Drain and refill yearly. Do not use other chemicals. Scents, mps, conditioner, ph stabilizer, foam remover, none! To avoid foaming, do not wash your suit in soap and fabric softener. Do not get oil, lotion, hair conditioner or makeup in the water. Hard water, meaning high calcium, is not feasible to reduce. Keep your alkalinity where it belongs and your hard water will not be a problem. If alk is high, calcium will come out of solution causing a sandpaper feel and white staining in your tub. A "clean cycle" just moves water through the filter and runs your ozone if you have it. It is meaningless to your spa maintenance. Filter cycles are what count. You want at least 2 hours twice per day minimum! Run a clean cycle after you add chemicals or before use if you like.

I have a friend that does the used part thing. I will put used parts in a used spa I am fixing to sell, but will not sell used parts in the field. Just doing the front bearing saves you from messing with that centrifugal switch. I have never done a rebuild in the field. I guess it's just how I was taught. I bring it to the shop.

Spa frog is a mineral purifier like nature 2. Often used in conjunction with bromine in a floater dispenser. Noyhing wrong with it except of course the constant ph drag of any continuous feed chlorine or bromine ststem. I use dichlor because it is ph neutral and you do not have a constant ph alk battle going on. Cheaper and easier to maintain that way, with much less damage to equipment in the long run, and it's more enjoyable to use. I am a bit surprised at some of the recommendations for chemicals given on this forum. Seems like alot of chemical bottle education, where you learned what you know from reading the label. I am a chemical minimalist, and CPO certified, and have put hundreds of people on this system myself and who knows how many from the pool store that recommends my system. I don't get calls about green water, or have to explain what all those different chemicals are for, or have some complex instructions to remember. My ph and alk start high, so I buy 2 chemicals, dichlor and dry acid. That's it. No shelf full of hundreds of dollars of crap. No oily scents that clog the filter, add to the scumline, and leave me smelling like vapo-rub after 3 days and 6 showers. Simple, easy, cheap, clean.

That helps, alright. You have a bad or poorly adjusted pressure switch. New part does not always mean good part. And new for you could have been on various shelves for years before you even touched it. Usually this is a sign of a leak in the diaphragm of the pressure switch shorting out the terminals. Is there any sign of water on or around the pressure switch? There is either a gear-like ring or a screw head on top of the pressure switch. This is the adjustment. It is usually glued in place at the factory with a dot of glue, but not always. You can adjust this slightly, it should be close if it worked for 2 weeks. If it is just out of adjustment that should clear it up. Be careful to only turn it a little at a time and remember how much and which way. But my bet is leak in the pressure switch. You will likely find a little wet spot on or around the pressure switch, or a white or rusty crusty buildup starting to form on it, or in a line down one side. When checking, unplug one pressure switch wire and turn jets on high to increase system pressure. You might just see it drip.

Not the filter. Turn of power for 10 seconds. It will still save your time, settings, etc. But will clear your codes. Your running out and hitting the jet button is the key. There are 2 Fl errors, one is for open flow switch, the other for closed. When you turn on the pump manually before it gets done looking for the open flow switch, it will think that closed flow switch it is reading is how it should be. Your circuit board thinks the flow switch is closed when it should be open. This could be an adjustment issue with the flow switch, a bad flow switch, a wire issue such as a wet or corroded terminal, or a circuit board issue. Can you use an electrical tester? Are you comfortable working around hot electrical circuits? For starters, lets test the switch. With the power off and your tester set for continuity or ohms, remove one wire from the pressure switch and test across the switch terminals. You should not have continuity, and ohms should be the same as before you touched the pressure switch with the test leads. Next, with one wire still disconnected from the pressure switch, turn on power and see if it starts the pump as it should before throwing the Fl code. This Fl will probably alternate with the temperature on the display.

Good. When it "tries to kick in", does it sound strange, make a buzzing or humming noise, or sound unusually quiet? Does it spurt a little water out of the jets before it stops? Follow the wire from the pump to the control box. If I remember correctly, there will be a strain relief at the box then wires go to screw terminals on circuit board. With power off, remove red and black pump wires from terminals on board. Turn on power and test voltage going to the pump terminals on the board, first low, then high with your other test lead on the white pump wire terminal. Use the topside button to test both terminals during both pump speeds. Verify that power output to the pump is constant 240vac and that only one of the red and black wire terminals has power at a time. One should be hot for low speed, the other for high. If power is good, we look at the pump, if not, the controls.

I copied this from another thread on spa chemistry. It is my suggested maintenance routine and the one I use in my own spa. Fill spa. Test alkalinity. Balance alkalinity to 80 to 120ppm , 100 being ideal. After alkalinity is adjusted and stable, at least 24 hours, test ph. Adjust ph 7.4 to 7.6. You should not have a chlorine or bromine reading in your spa except right after you add chlorine. Which should only be dichlor. Do not add liquid chlorine or any type of tablet. You are not concerned with what that reading is for now. 3-5 ppm is health dept requirement for PUBLIC spa. Unless you have constant use by everyone in the neighborhood, YOU DO NOT NEED THIS, it is only causing problems. Add 4 tsp of dichlor only AFTER ALK AND PH ARE BALANCED. Use it and enjoy. After each use add 1tsp plus 1/2 tsp per person in the spa of dichlor. Leave cover open for 30 minutes after to help prolong your cover life. Once each week check alk and ph, balance as needed. Check free cl and total cl, and shock as needed with dichlor. If free cl and total cl are the same or zero, you do not need to shock. You may add the nature 2 stick whenever you choose. I would leave it out for now to help eliminate it as a source for your discomfort. Rinse filters monthly. Clean them throughly every 3 to 6 months. Drain and refill yearly. Do not use other chemicals. Scents, mps, conditioner, ph stabilizer, foam remover, none! To avoid foaming, do not wash your suit in soap and fabric softener. Do not get oil, lotion, hair conditioner or makeup in the water. Hard water, meaning high calcium, is not feasible to reduce. Keep your alkalinity where it belongs and your hard water will not be a problem. If alk is high, calcium will come out of solution causing a sandpaper feel and white staining in your tub. A "clean cycle" just moves water through the filter and runs your ozone if you have it. It is meaningless to your spa maintenance. Filter cycles are what count. You want at least 2 hours twice per day minimum! Run a clean cycle after you add chemicals or before use if you like.

I have rebuilt hundreds of them working for other people. In my own business I learned to not offer rebuilds. They may save my customer some money, and they may cost them more. The only guarantee you get is that they will charge you wether they can rebuild it or not. No warranty and customer now has to pay me for another trip to re-install it, which eats my time and their savings. I carried new motors on my truck, so could replace it immediately with no extra trip, and give a warranty. Better for everyone but the rebuilder. And you never have a PO'd customer expecting you to buy them a new pump and install it for free because a motor shop rebuild failed. Last 10 years or so, if a customer wants a rebuild I explain that I will charge them an additional trip to come back out to reinstall it, and I remove it and give it to them to take where ever they want. I have no part of the rebuild, that is between them and the motor shop.

Re-introduce what sanitizer? Dichlor is a form of chlorine and the only sanitizer or shock that you need. Use it as I instructed. Nature 2 is a mineral purifier, which is a meaningless term. Sanitizers, by code, must kill organic contaminants. Purifier does not appear in the health code. Nature 2 is a glorified algeacide, which helps with sanitization and water clarity, but it is not a sanitizer. If you are having skin irritation issues with your spa, leave it out at least until you know if your irritation stops. If you use the spa trouble free for a few weeks, then reintroduce it and start itching, you will know.

It is a slightly different chemical. Ph and alkalinity are opposite sides of the same coin, and one always affects the other. Think of alkalinity as a ph stabilizer. If it is low, a gnat fart will change your ph. If it is high, nothing will change your ph and dissolved solids will come out of solution all over your spa. It takes a signifacant amount of chemical to affect your alkalinity, but very little to affect your ph. Do your alkalinity first or your ph twice, I always say. I would get alkalinity and ph in line, then add 4tsp dichlor and wait several hours before use. Initial balance is crucial, if you get it wrong you will fight it every week. Take your time and you only do it once a year. If you use the tub, you bring contaminants into the water that must be sanitized or they will multiply and create an unhealthy spa environment. Do not use the tub until you are ready to use dichlor, which is after your alk and ph are balanced and stable. Very rarely, and I mean VERY, people can have a reaction to chlorine or bromine. These people will also react to chlorine bleach, household cleaners, and such. They will not discover their chemical sensitivity by using a spa. Most issues of water irritation are ph related. Even if chlorine causes the ph issue, it is ph, not chlorine, that irritates your skin. Excessive levels of chlorine or chloramines can cause dryness, which in turn causes irritation. I have also heard of mps sensitivity, but can't say if it is also being misunderstood, as mps has a high ph and affects your test chemicals, making accurate readings problematic.

From the pic, I assume this motor is a US motor, formerly Emerson. The centrifugal switch in these is a wishbone behind the bearing that is easily damaged and difficult to get back in place when the rotor is pulled to replace the bearings. If this switch is damaged or improperly reinstalled, the motor may run on low speed at a very slow rate until it burns up the start windings, or it will not run at all. High speed will often still start, as it uses a different winding and generates enough torque to start without the start winding. One pool store I worked at refused to rebuild these motors for just that reason. A bad capacitor can have a similar effect. I think that motor has been an issue since your first post, before you replaced the pack, has it not? It has not worked properly with either pack, and has not worked since it was rebuilt? But we all assume it to be good, because it was just rebuilt? Bring it back to the motor shop. Have them show you it running in low and high speed while grounded. Check voltages at pump wiring and spin the shaft to check for a bad capacitor as Canadaguy suggested. I suspect there will be no problem there, but we need to confirm that first. I apologize for my earlier post. I have a 3 month old and haven't been getting enough sleep lately. This is not your fault and you should not have to suffer for it. I am sorry.

This is your owners manual. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.sundancespas.com/media/3475/880-series_english.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwi4tIPwyanoAhUNK80KHb32BiwQFjABegQIBBAC&usg=AOvVaw0VMxhasFXQgDCQx6Jov0Ys Are there any error codes on the topside? Is the screen blanking out and restarting also? What do you mean by "tries to start"?Is it making a noise? If so, what kind of noise? Will it move water or just make a noise? This could be a pump issue or a control power issue. Do you have an electrical tester and understand how to use it?

Leave out the nature 2. Fill spa. Test alkalinity. Balance alkalinity to 80 to 120ppm , 100 being ideal. After alkalinity is adjusted and stable, at least 24 hours, test ph. Adjust ph 7.4 to 7.6. You should not have a chlorine or bromine reading in your spa except right after you add chlorine. Which should only be dichlor. Do not add liquid chlorine or any type of tablet. You are not concerned with what that reading is for now. 3-5 ppm is health dept requirement for PUBLIC spa. Unless you have constant use by everyone in the neighborhood, YOU DO NOT NEED THIS, it is only causing problems. Add 4 tsp of dichlor only AFTER ALK AND PH ARE BALANCED. Use it and enjoy. After each use add 1tsp plus 1/2 tsp per person in the spa of dichlor. Leave cover open for 30 minutes after to help prolong your cover life. Once each week check alk and ph, balance as needed. Check free cl and total cl, and shock as needed with dichlor. If free cl and total cl are the same or zero, you do not need to shock. You may add the nature 2 stick whenever you choose. I would leave it out for now to help eliminate it as a source for your discomfort. Rinse filters monthly. Clean them throughly every 3 to 6 months. Drain and refill yearly. Do not use other chemicals. Scents, mps, conditioner, ph stabilizer, foam remover, none! To avoid foaming, do not wash your suit in soap and fabric softener. Do not get oil, lotion, hair conditioner or makeup in the water. Hard water, meaning high calcium, is not feasible to reduce. Keep your alkalinity where it belongs and your hard water will not be a problem. If alk is high, calcium will come out of solution causing a sandpaper feel and white staining in your tub. A "clean cycle" just moves water through the filter and runs your ozone if you have it. It is meaningless to your spa maintenance. Filter cycles are what count. You want at least 2 hours twice per day minimum! Run a clean cycle after you add chemicals or before use if you like.

I ask what was done to the motor because if the bearings were replaced on that motor then they had the rotor out which means they had the start switch apart which could be your problem. I said quite a while ago that the rebuild could be the problem. Have you confirmed your board wiring for equipment voltages, because it looks in your photo that you have this 240v motor wired up for 120v. Canadaguy has been saying forever to check the wiring on the pump. If you expect a bunch of strangers to help you solve your problem for free, you should at least answer their questions and listen to their advice. This is what we do, or did, for a living. My advice is to call a professional before you destroy your new equipment. I am sure Canadaguy or myself would have it figured out in under 5 minutes. But you seem to be incapable of following instruction. Maybe it is worth the service charge and hour of labor to get the answer before you damage your new, and possibly unnecessary, equipment pack. Just my opinion. Best of luck to you.

What brand is your spa? Filter cycle settings are often the cause of overheating. Make sure you do not have it set to run excessive amounts.

And who rebuilt the pump? Did you bring it to a motor shop, pool store, or DIY? What was replaced as part of this rebuild? What brand of motor is on this Executive pump?

Yeah, that mixed me up too. Which pump is humming?

From the photos, pump 2 is a single speed pump. I think he said pump 1 works and circ pump works, but pump 2 hums. I suspect pump 2 was also wired for the wrong voltage, and it has blown his capacitor, if not worse. You can see in the photo it is wired for 240v at the board, but I am not sure if it started out that way or he switched it. Doesn't really look factory to me just by wire routing.

A pump can run for a while at the wrong voltage. Confirm ALL of your equipment is wired correctly. If it still hums, check the capacitor. Check to see if you can turn the motor shaft by hand.