RDspaguy

Yep, Watkins is notorious for that, but it takes pretty seriously cold water temperatures. I have warmed them directly with a heat gun as well, which has intermittent results. As I advised days ago that he get some sensors to test it out and he has not, we are trying to narrow it down another way to determine for sure that it is a sensor issue and not a flow issue.

Try the manual for programming info. When the light is held for 5 seconds, the display should show filter options, not "on" or "off". Based on the info I found.

Can you post a pic of the control, that tag is meaningless to me. It does sound like a programming issue.

Both, I think. He has the standard gfci cord end, plugged in to a plug on a 20a gfci breaker. The breaker is tripping, not the cord. Could be the cord is bad, could be the breaker is more sensitive than the cord end. Could also be over-amping the breaker, but would expect some humming out of it if that were the case. Gotta be pretty close on amp draw. Not sure of the kw of the heater, but it's probably pulling 8 or up to 12. Has a circulation pump, ozone, main pump, control. Gotta be on the cusp of 20 amps. If that breaker is old, or has loose connections, it could be tripping for that. He could disconnect his ground, assuming it is not grounded elsewhere, to determine if it is a ground fault or amperage issue. The light tripping it throws me. That almost has to be wet.

Pics aren't visible. Need to know more. Is there a timer? Is it a digital control, could be in economy mode.

Right. Tripping the gfci breaker in the panel. The one with the test button. Gfci cords are not reliable, I agree, but it may not be malfunctioning, just the breaker is more sensitive and trips at a lesser fault, so trips first. You don't need 2, so as long as one works you are ok. It's ridiculous how much they get for one of those cord ends. I usually put in a gfci plug and standard cord when I run in to a bad one. This one having the gfci dedicated circuit, he doesn't even need that.

Try disconnecting the pump. If thats not it, try the light. It's a process of elimination if it is a component. With it being on a gfci breaker as well as plug, it could be a ground fault or amp draw causing the trip. It could be a chewed wire, a bad pump, a leak onto the pump, inside the pump, onto the circuit board, onto the light (if it is 120v), a faulty breaker, loose wire connection, or any number of things. There is only so much I can do from here. You are going to have to track it down my friend. At face value, pump or breaker. The light causing a trip as well is either a different issue, or something is leaking on both. You have a head-scratcher, sorry to say. Gonna have to get in there.

I am not familiar with that brand, or any inflatable spa. Can you post a pic of the control box, heater, and pump so we have some idea what you have there?

Turn off power. Open control pack. Locate wire for main pump and disconnect from circuit board. Determine if you have an ozonator. Turn power on, press clean button. If it doesnt trip it is your pump or pump wiring. If it does trip, reconnect pump and disconnect ozone. Try again.

You must have water in it before you turn it on. I hope you did not damage anything. Watchdog is exactly what you should see with no water in it. Fill it through the filter pipe. Turn it on and see what it does.

Gonna have to try... not getting an answer if we don't.

Pablo, you should start a new thread, this one is 11 years old. You do not need high temp caulk. Any 100% silicone will do.

There are many maintenance systems for spas. H2o2, hydrogen peroxide, is a great system used in hospital and sport therapy tubs and stainless steel tubs and swimspas. It is kinda expensive, has a significant investment in feeder system, causes a very high alkalinity, and uses dangerous chemicals. This is my recommended system that I also use in my own tub(s). My system for private spas, which I recommend to my customers and use in my own tub(s) is simple, inexpensive, and in my experience trouble free. Fill up Fill spa through filter inlet. Start spa and test pumps. Test water. Balance alkalinity to 100ppm. Wait at least 4 hours. Test water. Balance ph to 7.4-7.6 Add 4 tsp dichlor Wait 30 minutes. Test water. If total chlorine is higher than free chlorine, shock with 4 tsp dichlor. Wait 30 minutes. Test. Maintain After each use of the spa, add 1tsp plus 1/2 tsp per person in the spa of dichlor. Each week, test water and balance alk and ph as needed. Since dichlor is ph neutral you should not need to do much. If total chlorine is higher than free chlorine, shock with 4tsp dichlor. If you have ozone you will not need to shock. Each month, remove filter(s) and rinse with hose. Every 3 months, clean filter thoroughly. If using a filter cleaning solution be sure it is all completely rinsed from the filter fibers before re-installation. Every 6 months, drain and refill. Always leave cover open for 30 minutes after adding chemicals to prolong cover life. To avoid foam in your spa, do not wash your spa suit in detergent and fabric softener, rinse with plain water or just wear your birthday suit. Do not allow hair treated with product to contact water, wear hair up. Avoid suntan lotion, baby oil, and other skin care products prior to use. Do not get makeup in the water. Always rinse off before use. Avoid extra chemicals, scents, conditioners, clarifiers, borate, etc... They will only create problems and cause more frequent water changes. Mineral sticks, such as spa frog or nature2, are ok to use but un-necessary. You need: Chlorinating granules (99% dichlor) Ph increaser Alkalinity increaser Dry acid Test strips with free and total chlorine You may use: Filter cleaner Foam down This is my method. There are many methods of maintaining your spa, this is my preference. Others may advise you differently, that is their preference. What matters is finding a method that works for you. Try it out. You can always pour in a basketful of chemicals later if this does not work for you. Best of luck.

Been getting alot of this lately. This is copied from another thread I posted in. It is my recommended system to all of my customers and what I do in my own spa. Fill spa. Test alkalinity. Balance alkalinity to 80 to 120ppm , 100 being ideal. After alkalinity is adjusted and stable, at least 24 hours, test ph. Adjust ph 7.4 to 7.6. You should not have a chlorine or bromine reading in your spa except right after you add chlorine. Which should only be dichlor. Do not add liquid chlorine or any type of tablet. You are not concerned with what that reading is for now. 3-5 ppm is health dept requirement for PUBLIC spa. Unless you have constant use by everyone in the neighborhood, YOU DO NOT NEED THIS, it is only causing problems. Add 4 tsp of dichlor only AFTER ALK AND PH ARE BALANCED. Use it and enjoy. After each use add 1tsp plus 1/2 tsp per person in the spa of dichlor. Leave cover open for 30 minutes after to help prolong your cover life. Once each week check alk and ph, balance asneeded. Check free cl and total cl, and shock as needed with 4tsp dichlor. If free cl and total cl are the same or zero, you do not need to shock. This will be most of the time. If you have ozone you will not need to shock. You may add the nature 2 stick whenever youchoose. I would leave it out for now to help eliminate it as a source for your discomfort. Rinse filters monthly. Clean them throughly every 3 to 6 months. Drain and refill yearly. Do not use other chemicals. Scents, mps, conditioner, ph stabilizer, foam remover, none! To avoid foaming, do not wash your suit in soap and fabric softener. Do not get oil, lotion, hair conditioner or makeup in the water. Hard water, meaning high calcium, is not feasible to reduce. Keep your alkalinity where it belongs and your hard water will not be a problem. If alk is high, calcium will come out of solution causing asandpaper feel and white staining in your tub. A "clean cycle" just moves water through the filter and runs your ozone if you have it. It is meaningless to your spa maintenance. Filtercycles are what count. You want at least 2 hours twice per day minimum! Run a clean cycle afteryou add chemicals or before use if you like. The 58% dichlor is 42% potassium monopersulfate, or mps. This has a high ph and can give you bad test readings for some time. I would just use the straight dichlor. It is ph neutral and will make keeping your balance a breeze.

When is the last time you cleaned your filter? Try removing the filter and give it a try. Does it run for a minute or immediately go into watchdog without the circulation pump or main pump turning on?

4 dashes is an error called "watchdog mode" in which the spa shuts off almost everything. Often the result of a faulty sensor, but could be a number of things. Have you recently done anything to the spa? Are you handy with an electrical tester?

By drain you do mean the hose connection for draining the spa, right? How many drains are there? If memory serves, and it's getting unreliable, there are 2 in a HS. One goes to the floor "drain" where the ozone bubbles up and the circulation and heater system, and the other goes to the main pump plumbing. Blocking off something in the spa will not stop this leak, you would have to block many things. Were the caps off when it was winterized? If not, those drain pipes may have frozen.

Also about the time main pump will kick in. It is not a ground fault, nor is it filter related. In addition to Canadaguys suggestions, check the breaker for loose wire terminals.

Did you resolve the issue?

Doubled wire goes on 2 and 3. White wire on 1. Other black on 4 or 5. Timer has a 3 position switch on the front that is either always on, timer mode, or always off. Be sure switch is in center position. Do not try to set a tab when lined up with arrow or you may break it. Not sure what "preset timer" means.

To set filter cycles: Press and hold light button for 5 seconds Use up/ down to change Press light to save

So it trips when the high speed pump is turned on? Does low speed turn off as it should or run constantly? Is it heating? Is there anything else wrong, even if you think it unrelated? What model year is it? Are you comfortable working on it? Do you have an electrical tester?

👍

Been getting alot of this lately. This is copied from another thread I posted in. It is my recommended system to all of my customers and what I do in my own spa. Fill spa. Test alkalinity. Balance alkalinity to 80 to 120ppm , 100 being ideal. After alkalinity is adjusted and stable, at least 24 hours, test ph. Adjust ph 7.4 to 7.6. You should not have a chlorine or bromine reading in your spa except right after you add chlorine. Which should only be dichlor. Do not add liquid chlorine or any type of tablet. You are not concerned with what that reading is for now. 3-5 ppm is health dept requirement for PUBLIC spa. Unless you have constant use by everyone in the neighborhood, YOU DO NOT NEED THIS, it is only causing problems. Add 4 tsp of dichlor only AFTER ALK AND PH ARE BALANCED. Use it and enjoy. After each use add 1tsp plus 1/2 tsp per person in the spa of dichlor. Leave cover open for 30 minutes after to help prolong your cover life. Once each week check alk and ph, balance as needed. Check free cl and total cl, and shock as needed with 4tsp dichlor. If free cl and total cl are the same or zero, you do not need to shock. This will be most of the time. If you have ozone you will not need to shock. You may add the nature 2 stick whenever youchoose. I would leave it out for now to help eliminate it as a source for your discomfort. Rinse filters monthly. Clean them throughly every 3 to 6 months. Drain and refill yearly. Do not use other chemicals. Scents, mps, conditioner, ph stabilizer, foam remover, none! To avoid foaming, do not wash your suit in soap and fabric softener. Do not get oil, lotion, hair conditioner or makeup in the water. Hard water, meaning high calcium, is not feasible to reduce. Keep your alkalinity where it belongs and your hard water will not be a problem. If alk is high, calcium will come out of solution causing a sandpaper feel and white staining in your tub. A "clean cycle" just moves water through the filter and runs your ozone if you have it. It is meaningless to your spa maintenance. Filter cycles are what count. You want at least 2 hours twice per day minimum! Run a clean cycle afteryou add chemicals or before use if you like. The 58% dichlor is 42% potassium monopersulfate, or mps. This has a high ph and can give you bad test readings for some time. I would just use the straight dichlor. It is ph neutral and will make keeping your balance a breeze.

'94? The good old days. I worked for a sundance dealer early in my career, '98-'99 I think. Do you know what control system you have? I might have to dredge up some old memories, and tech books, for this one.