RDspaguy

Two threads on the same subject will not help. See other thread for your solution.

Bacterial growth in the pipes. I still remember the first time I saw it nearly 25 years ago. Bacteria was not my guess! 🤢 Superchlorinate to 30 ppm with 2 cups liquid chlorine (not household bleach) to kill it off. Wait for chlorine level to come down. Use Ahhsome cleaner. Drain and refill. Keep your chlorine at 3-5ppm. You will never see it again.

Can you post a pic of the capacitor?

I'm an old dude. I have hair in places I never knew you could have hair.

Problem is she'd have a hairy chest if I wore that!

LMAOROTF! 🤣 Where do I get one?

And I still say give him the chance to be ethical. I expect he will. It's way too much trouble for him if he doesn't. Once you call the inspector, you will have to sue to get him to cover it, which means you will have to prove he moved that wire, and get an attorney. It would cost you more than the new controller, and you probably wouldn't win the lawsuit anyway. This isn't Judge Judy, in real life the contractor is not automatically liable. You have to have some proof. But before you screw his local reputation, he may do it just so you won't screw his local reputation. Google reviews is also a strong incentive. Nobody calls anybody anymore without reading the reviews first. Mention that you plan to write a review on him, it's up to him what that review says. Could be praise for good ethics, or...

Breaker.

Well, the 2420 is listed as 32.5", the 3620 as 36" tall. I am not sure which you have either.

Need more info my friend. What type of pool, liner, plaster, painted concrete? How wide is the crack? Where is it at? Can you post a pic?

Yeah, Canadaguy and I have a running joke here. And he is the butt of that joke! 🤣 Seriously though, between us we have over 50 years (and 2 weeks) experience in this business. We would take it personal if we couldn't figure it out.

That's a fairly standard price for a balboa vs without topside. If it worked for your parents, the electrician moved that wire. There is no way it ever worked wired like that. I will happily mail you a signed statement saying so. I would raise hell. He could have burned your house down with his clueless wiring. Tell him he can fix it or you can schedule with the inspector to come see what kind of work he is doing in that inspectors jurisdiction. Every permit he pulls in that area has to go across that guys desk. The last thing he wants is to be remembered as THAT guy. He'll have that inspector on every job he does there. I would not touch the board until you work it out with the electrician or inspector.

The outgoing side of a relay with incoming opposite phase on the other side creating a dead short when that relay engages, which is any time the high limit is not tripped. What I would like to know is who did it? If it worked before converting to 240v then the electrician did it. If it is a used spa just purchased it could have been that way before he touched it. We are talking about a fair chunk of change, whoever ends up paying for it. Maybe I just have a problem with this electricians sub-par abilities and want him to be at fault and learn a lesson.

Sounds like the topside control panel, wiring, or connection. Maybe shorted the down button. @CanadianSpaTech, another gecko, your favorite.

Nothing that will clean whatever that stuff is. Put a flame to it, does it melt? I think you've got something in the pipes, maybe even in the heater, that is coming apart or melting. Are the jets that it appears in the same ones all the time?

It does resemble a deteriorated foam, doesn't it? I too would like to know the brand and age. How long have you had it? Your post said "on some of the led lit jets". Is it on them, or inside the jet nozzle?

Transformer. The board should not be hot, the transformer is the biggest heat source in there. Relays can cause some heat, but usually not enough to shut down the electronics, even if bad. When a transformer gets too hot it will not work, which is like turning off the power to the control.

Ok, I see what you mean now. You have a dead short on the heater circuit. Yes, that red wire is in the wrong place, your other heater lead should be there. How strange, why would anyone do that? There is never any need to disconnect that wire. How long have you had this spa? Was it previously wired for 120v and working for you?

Not sure I follow. To wire for 120v you would remove the red wire to the board (4 on diagram) and connect it to the bottom terminal, opposite the small white wire. The heater does not look too bad. Is there a green wire attached to the steel tube?

For 240v operation, the wire marked 4 in the diagram should terminate in the second terminal opposite the red wire as shown in the diagram. For 120v, the 4 wire goes to the fifth terminal opposite the small white wire that does not come from the breaker. When wired for 120v, there is no connection between the board and the red wire from the breaker, which should have been apparent to the electrician but would not damage the board regardless of amp mode. Amp mode simply determines whether the heater can operate while the jets are on high or blower is on. This could have caused 120v to be sent to your 240v pump, which can damage it over time but not immediately. It would have no effect on the heater circuitry and could not have caused the damage to the board at the heater relays. A shorted heater could cause the arc, welded relay, and burned board but only if the gfci is not working properly or the heater is not grounded. Can you post a pic of the heater wire connections?

Do you have an electrical tester? What you describe could be a few things, we need to narrow it down. Let's verify that we have power to the low speed pump. If you could post a pic of the circuit board and control box it would help.

Is it on a gfci breaker? Those two burned connections are both for the same leg of the heater, one into the relay, one out. The heater doesn't care if it has 120v or 240v, so this was not likely the cause of the problem. With that system, when wired for 120v the red wire from the breaker does not have any connection to the circuit board or equipment so could not have damaged it. The relay arched a few times then welded closed and began to melt. Your electrician should have caught the wiring issue, but I do not think it caused this damage. Unless it is not on a gfci breaker, in which case the board damage is his fault but the heater is not.

Hi Tia, welcome. The person who posted this has not been back on this forum since the day he posted. He is not likelt to answer. I can tell you from other posts here that there is not much info available regarding inflatable spas. I would suggest you contact the manufacturer.

Try removing the filter and see if it works. Did you fill through the filter port?

Swap them and see.