CanadianSpaTech

Turn off power and drain the spa down to just above the highest jet and see if it drains down past the bottom of the jet. If it stops at the bottom of the jet you have a jet leak and I think on those spas you can remove/unscrew the jet from inside the bather area and re silicone and put back together. Look in the center of the jet for an allen key fitting to remove/unscrew it. If it drains down well past the jets to the foot well then you have other issues but have eliminated a jet leak. Your spa might be different than what I have seen so my advice may or may not be valid.

Can't wait for someone to ask what I do for a living

Watchdog error... Remove filters and reset breaker run without filters and see if it clears. Temperature overheat, a dirty filter or low flow conditions, this cause would likely take almost a minute to cause the watchdog error, and should show you other errors before kicking to watchdog, like FLO or OH. If you see no other errors, or the watchdog error shows quickly, move to other reasons. Bad temperature sensor, this is a relatively cheap part that can fail over the years. One easy way to sometimes confirm this part has failed is as follows: Have one person stand at the power for the spa, another person will stand at the spa control panel. When power is applied the person standing at the spa is looking for a reading of the temperature before the display goes to all dashes. (this can be very quick, this is why it usually needs two people) What the person is looking for is the temperature to display a very high temperature, usually over 110 degrees before it kicks to watchdog, if you see this behavior you most likely need a new temperature sensor. Bad capacitors on main circuit board, many capacitors supplied in electronics in the early 2000's suffered from capacitor plague, this is often fairly easy to diagnose since you can visually inspect the capacitors and see if they have and "bulge" to them, they are usually located near the center of the board and kinda look like batteries soldered onto the board. Then ends should be perfectly flat and if they have a swollen appearance they are bad and can cause the watchdog error. It seems like cold weather or being shut off for a while (circuit board cools) are when capacitors really start causing the watchdog error.

Have the engineer test the sensors. Do you get a lot of white calcium in the spa accumulating on the seats and in the foot well area. If you do the heater element might be covered in calcium and not performing as it should. Also remove the filters and try getting it up to temp without them installed. Engineer! love it...Hey RD were Engineers. Will have to change my business cards.

What is the current temp and what do you have it set at?

And is it in a filter cycle? Is it calling for heat? Zero out filter cycles and set temp 5+ degrees below actual temp and wait 45 seconds does the pump now stop?

Is it just me or does this sound normal? The spa is heating from 78 to the set 104 and the pump is running as it should be when calling for heat. When you say it goes from jets 1 to jets 2 do you mean from low to high? What was the original problem you had. What is your filter cycle set for?

Let us know results. Good Luck.

Along the chrome heater tube at the bottom of the pack there are 2 black nuts with a grey wire coming out. One at each end of the heater tube. They attach to the circuit board on the lower right hand side of the circuit board. There are small tabs that need to be pressed down to release them from the board. https://www.hottubworks.com/blog/testing-sensors/ You may want to call for service at this point. They will have extra sensors to use for testing and give you an answer before you start spending money on something you don't need.

Just replacing the board might not fix your problem if it is a sensor issue. If you can't test the sensors yourself take them into your local hardware store and ask them to test them for you. I'm sure they will know how to work a multi meter for testing. Rd is saying replace the entire spa pack...New board. heater, sensors

Leave the panel closed and create the problem then open it and see how hot it is in the cabinet and how hot the pumps are getting. Also check the breaker for excessive heat at this time. I would also disconnect the ozone to take it out of the scenario for the time being and take the filters out but that is just habit for me.

Does the spa have more than one topside? But did you check to see if anything is connected to J7 ?

Pump running for a 15 min cycle can get to 160-180 degrees and if there is not enough ventilation it might run the 15 mins without problem but if you go 30, 40 ,50 mins or longer it can get pretty hot in there if the pump can't shed heat. The excess heat can cause a variety of inconsistent (warm day/cold day) errors and failures even complete shutdowns. You can insulate the F out of spas but they still have to breath. Not saying this is your issue but one to consider. RD where you at on this?

have you tried this?

After 45 mins running it could be getting to hot inside the cabinet from the pumps and shutting down.

Does it trip the breaker after 45 min or do the pumps just shut off and you can restart them just by pressing the Jet button?

LX Chinese made metric pump. Almost impossible to get parts for here in North America. If I were switching I would be using an Iron Might pump but you might have to make changes to the plumbing to get everything to line up.. JMO

If you can't test the sensor set you could buy 2 new ones and try it that way but you won't know if it's going to work to fix your problem.

F8 would be running for 8 hours out of 12 and 16 out of 24. F2 or 2 hours would likely be enough and factory default setting on most spas

The plumbing will need to be adapted as well.

Yes converting to 220V would help but you would have to replace the entire control system and possibly do some plumbing. If you can post a photo of the entire equipment area we could have a better idea of what is possible. The system you currently have cannot be converted to 220 and is 110v only. Might be more cost effective to sell it and get one 220v rated

I don't sing...but I can make them sing FYI all the funniest comedians are Canadian

Is there an echo in here...Hello hello hello hello 2 minutes and always 2 weeks behind Think I'll go walk my cat and let you catch up

Looks like the left copper tab going from the circuit board to the heater has overheated at some point. I would remove the board and look on the backside for burnt or darkened areas.

To be clear you disconnected the sensors from the board and powered it back up without them connected then powered off and reconnected them and same error came back