KyleCT

Sounds like you pump is shot and it kicking out the thermal overload after a period of time, the only reason the HH is coming up is because the spa starts heating then looses flow and the water overheats in the heater tube therefore making the system shut down to protect itself. Hope this helps! Kyle

If you have brown goo, I would use a product called SpaEase Jet Line Cleaner to flush you lines of that stuff, check out www.hottubchemicals.com, they will have all the stuff you need. You choice changing over to Bromine by the way.

You should be able to just replace the sensors in a balboa pac and it should solve the problem if you are receiving a false positive OH or OHH cod on display. Meaning it is saying the water is hot but it isn't. Call the team over at Hot Tub Discounts and they can get the parts for you, they are great (860)469-2580

Hi, The filter does not need to be in for the spa to heat, sounds like you have a bad heater if you have proper flow and the heating icon is on. Kyle

Looks like you just need new heater gaskets, call the guys over at hot tub discounts, they will have everything you need. Kyle

Sounds like a bad pump and the pressure switch is doing it's job, no flow the spa should shut itself down to protect itself. Hope this info helps! Kyle

Normally with a Liquid Bromine product such as Brom Bank you need to use an oxidizer such as MPS in equal amounts of the Bromine you are adding or it will not show up on your test strips. Be carefull you probably have to much bromine in there at this point. Also if your hardness is low that could cause bubbles, liquid calcium should bring your hardness up for you without an issue. (try going to the knowledge center on www.hottubchemicals.com for troubleshooting on a lot of these issues) As for the Waterfall try taking the cover off and normally there is a diffuser in there which sand a grit get caught in, after cleaning it should be ok Not sure on the air control issue, don't know how something would have gotten in there I would replace filters after 18 months, the filter might look clean but the media seizes together and doesn't filter effectively anymore and if the get really old these most likely is a check valve which will open if your filters are clogged and it will pull only from your suctions and you won't be filtering at all (check out the filter finder on www.hottubchemicals.com, they have filters for every hot tub out there) Hope this info helps! Kyle

if they are the same size and the interior hole is the same then yes. Try going to www.hottubchemicals.com and put in the part numbers you have to see if you can get the right filter, their filter finder is awesome. Kyle

If you do have a blower (pump that blows are to make bubbles) they normally have a check valve in line which keeps the water from getting back in the blower motor that might be the issue. Over time the seals on the check valve can fail a bit and it only takes a drop or two of water the get back to that motor to cause your breaker to trip. Try unplugging your blower and see if the breaker still trips, if not you have just isolated the problem. Kyle

Spa frog is good, but expensive and hard to know when the bromine cartridge has been depleated. You should need dichlor as well, I run the following SpaEase Brom Bank - I use this to get sanitizer level to 3ppm upon fill up - note you have to use equal parts of Brom Bank and Activator MPS to do this, but it allows you to get right up to 3ppm instantly SpaEase Activator - MPS Shock - I use this in conjunction with Brom Bank on start up and then after each use after that SpaEase Bromine Tablets - after reaching 3ppm I use these in a floater to maintain 3ppm all week long and only have to add more tablets once a week SpaEase Mineral Stick - Same as frog but much cheaper. Hope this helps simplify your chemical procedures Kyle

I agree with "Wizard of Water" use bromine and Non-chlorine shock or MPS Activator, in my the best combo our there.

Bleach isn't that great of an idea, although it will keep your water clear it will slowly degrade your spa plumbing such as gaskets and jet housings. Just my 2 cents As for running it with the air on, I would leave them off, not a big deal but this is outside air and can always carry contaminants such as dust and pollen. KyleCT

I would question the brand of chemicals you are using, the easiest way to cheapen granular and tablet chemicals is to add fillers such as talc. I don't think the Nature's 2 cartridge is your issue, I have been using them for ever and its proven to be a quality product, although I have found a much cheaper stick now but same active ingredients. The only other thing I can think of is you mentioned your tub was 9 months old and if you went to long without replacing your water and it reached its max TDS (total dissolved solids) level that could cause that as well, I have even seen everything stick to the shell making it a rough surface. Hope this helps, for flushing I would use SpaEase Jet Line Cleaner, I use it before I drain my spa every time as a preventative maintenance product. KyleCT

Normally the best bet is to add brom bank, but with that you need to add equal parts of an activator such as MPS, I would check out www.hottubchemicals.com and go to their knowledgebase area, helped me a lot with bromine questions and how to use it.

Surging is normally caused by the following Low water level so the skimmer is pulling air which would cause the spa to go into a flow mode and not heat Dirty Filters - remove and see if problem still exists Gate Valves - partially down and could cause surging issue Hope this helps! KyleCT