dg98adams

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Is the tub 220v or110v? How often does the circulation pump run, continuously or is there a timer? How thick is your cover? Need more info to guess....

Sounds like you want to replace the motor and the wet end (plastic housing that bolts to the motor). Usually you can identify the wet end from the pics online when ordering. Make sure you measure both openings where the water comes out.

Found some Hot Springs jet parts... but does your blower run? That might be the bubbles problem. Also make su eyou do not try to remove the glued portion of the jet... it's usually the removable insert you have to replace. http://hotspringsupply.com/index.php/jets.html?p=1 http://www.backyardplus.com/jets-rotating-spinning.php

Found a couple options.... Individuals LEDs are easy to replace once you get the assembly out.. just gotta know the voltage for the replacement..... otherwise the entire assembly appears available, if not cheap. If you remove an LED (unsolder) you can test it with an OMH meter.... check bewtten each leg for resistance... one way should be "0-1" OHM the other way should be " " (nothing). Pay attention how you remove it as they are polarized (one leg is "+" the other is "-"... you can get LEDs in any color/voltage online. http://www.balboawatergroup.com/MoodEFX-Lighting http://www.cedartubsdirect.com/mood-fx-22-bulb-hot-tub-led-light-spa-light-bulb-p-325.html http://www.hottubwarehouse.com/balboa-moodefx-22-led-hot-tub-light-23138

There should be shut off's on either sid eof the motor so you do not have to drain the tub.... otherwise you can drain it (warm weather). Then ti comes down to loosing the PVC rings, disassemble the wet end from the pump, removing the impeller from the shaft. The wet end is not too bad assuming you don't break the propeller. The bearings in the motor means you will have to have it disassembled. That one will depend on your comfort level. If you are a remove and replace kind of guy you might be better off with new motor/pump assembly. You could even find a local electrical shop to do the bearings... A pro will charge 3-400 plus parts.... just getting it out will save on labor if you take the motor to a shop.

You could fill the area with a piece of Cedar or better yet a piece of plastic cut to fit. Sand the old panel, and paint it solid and reinstall.

I have a 25 year old Sundance Cameo. Only thing I have replaced was the cover, pump motor seals and the air blower.... $4400 is high, offer $2500

I have seen the weather cap, that is really nothing more than boat cover material with shock cord running around the permieter... a lot cheaper and easier to change than the vinyl cover. This is what I plan to do, once I get my tub back up and running.

I made mine using the same pattern as yours out of 3/4" Conduit... less than $40. Very heavy duty.

I am reassembing my hot tub pumps & heater pipe... it's been apart for a while. The rings and the flangeas have O-rings or seals on the lip. I want to clean the o-rings and flange seals and lubricate them before assembly. So for O-ring lube, i know you don't use Vaseline or any petrolem product... but all I have found in the O-ring section at my local supply store is either "Water Proofe grease" or " Silicone grease"... I did not find anything that specifically said "O-ring lube". When I did searches on "O-ring" lubricant, mostly I hit Silicon-based as the preferred lube... especially for Pool and Spa.

I have a Sundance I have had to deal with leaks over the years.... When the leak occurs on the backside of the wet end and you see it on the shaft it's usually the pump seal (2 ceramic pieces spring seated), which is replaceable and common to wear and leak and way cheaper but requires removal of the wet end. Your water PH going hi can cause particles in the water and allow the spinning seal to wear. I can't tell on the other leak if it's coming from the threads on the PVC ring or the actual seal of the wet end flange. Might as well take the wet end off the motor and see if you can order a seal and a new o-ring for the flange of the wet end. Depending on the age of the wet end, you might also have to get a new impeller (sometimes they can be hard to remove and break). I would hate to fix 1 leak with the seal and not the other.

I would see if you could keyhole saw the plastic foam? behind the valve, and if you can get to the backside of the valve, cut it out and replace. Working on any tub is a pain, but it is what it is.

Just gotta figure out the size of the elbow and flex tube. I think most flex tube is 3/4" or 1". The Elbow might be 1 or 1-1/2". http://www.hottubspasupplies.com/hot-tub-parts/fittings-plumbing-pvc/pipe-extenders

If you have cracked pipe then you won't reuse anything glued to them in general. You just have to add new flex/couple/unions etc and prime/glue.

You can use a small wire wheel attached ot a drill to clean off the foam, or a hand wire brush. JB weld is not flexible and might not work. A quick repair would be to use any 2-part epoxy glue for plastic or plumbing. I think they have a kit especially for hot tubs if you wanna pay extra. There is a plumping extender which is a plastic part that would fit over the outside of the elbow that has a reducer that will fit over the flex tube. You would cut right where the flex tube meets the elbox. Glue just like normal PVC. That is the preferred method. Anthother fix would be to cut right where the flex tube meets the elbox, then use primer glue to burn out the remaining flex tube (I think ther eis a cutter tool to phisically do the same thing), clean and make a repair with new flex tube and a coupler. And wet foam that you removed is trash.. You can use a closed cell spray foam to refill the cavity.

I would hold off on the actual drilling of the deck or cutting of your cable until the hot tub is placed. usually the access is located on the side where the control panel is or on the closest side.

Don't use PVC from local hardware store... figure out what size the T is a find it on a spa site. Everything has to be cleaned to primer/glue. Not rocket science, but still attention to detail.

I got the tub frame done, and reinstalled the redwood panels. Some minor repair needed, Ohio Winter has been tough on them for 20 years. The only areas I may have problems is the curved corner pieces. I found some Vinyl I think I can use to bend aroudn the corners if needed. Temporarily I only put 2 screws per panel as now I need to: reconnect spa to power install the motors/wet ends install heater plumbing remove foam around corners (for sure where the back rest jets are) possibly replace a couple slide gates, but those are easy enogh to get to last thing will be replace the cover and make a cover lifter (assuming everything else goes right).. If it leaks in the footwell, I will have to tip it back on it's side. Hopefully since I fully replaced the frame it's more structurally sound for that. I have sourced some parts (online I think I might need). Pics posted soon.

If you cut the FLEX pipe back to uncracked pipe you can replace that section and use some couplers... I think they glue in. https://www.plumbingsupply.com/spaflex.html

You will have to remove the white foam so you an get to the back side and see how it's attached. It's either 1.5" or 2". If it's glued then you will have to cut it off... really depends on the type of gate or slide valve. Here is some other views. http://www.spadepot.com/shop/Gate-Valves-C722.aspx

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Every couple of years I have hit the sides of my Sindance Cedar cabinte with a pressure washer to clean/remove and mildew before restaining (solid) Navajo Red. Just make sure you use a mild pressure head if you have one.

Okay I cut the 2x4's for the bottom of the tub... these will be the last parts of the Framing refurb. I noticed some PVC that appear to be open to the bottom and are likley there to be bottom supports. I am adding a few more 2x4's than the tub originally had. I can definatley say the frame is going to be sturdy. Once the concrete pad gets leveled, I will flip it on it's side, power wash the inside then sit back on the concrete. I know I have some minor leaks to address. I will post more pics when I get the chance.

You can buy a simple strap wrench that won't mar the plastic.