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Everything posted by dg98adams

  1. The long screws that hold the wet end on.... are they tight? also the impeller on the shaft.... could it be cracked or is the wet end new too?
  2. See if you can find a gate valve like that.... the ones I have do not have screws.... but yeah a screw driver and a wire wheel on a drill will clear out the foam. Could be rebuildable..... maybe just gasket seal and an o-ring... but plan for cracks... you might disconnect one side from the pump.... then cut the pvc on the other side.... might need a coupler if you cut it...
  3. Are you sure it's the motor? Can you put a screw driver on it and listen to the "ringing"?
  4. Gecko Spa Side Error Codes FLO Pressure switch failure, switch open FLC Pressure switch failure, switch closed Prr Temp sensor failure Prh Hi-limit sensor failure HL Sensor measuring 119 degrees FrE Possible freeze condition detected
  5. Sounds more like during the pump replacement process, you must have loosened a plug or connector... Check any accessible plugs that may have been disturbed during the pump replacement. Do you have all the "T" valves open now? Usually they can be closed so you don't have to drain the entire spa.
  6. Caulk won't fix leak, but mask it.. Find the crack, prep and epoxy it.
  7. 220v spas heat and circulate when you are in them, wile 110v it's one or the other... so I would guess for your climate 220v is what you should look at... do you have a hook up, because a 50 or 60 amp 220v is not going to be cheap. The key is to keep warm water circulating all winter so you don't have pipes freeze, you can program the wamer warter temp when it's likely you will use it. A 6" cover with a a weather top canvas cover should minimize heat loss. I would assume any tub you are looking is full insulated (Blown foam). They key is to maintain the proper PH level... when it goes low or high it will damage seals and fixtures. Most tubs use parts from several manufacturers., Big names I know of are Hot Springs and Sundance, but they are not in the cheap ranges. Personally, I never had any issues with my Sundance tub for at lest 8-9 years. In that time my local dealer folded. Closest dealer was 75 miles away. I used them for parts, and a local spa place for general parts. After 13 years I had a couple plumbing issues and a new cover was needed. I went after market.. didn't last 5 years. Controls and motors are still good, but I have had some other plumbing issues because I drained it and let it sit over a couple years.. If I bought a new tub, I would want the best cover, and as much as as I could get for part numbers and specs, so you can mail order parts later on when you need it no matter what brand you buy. A local dealer is only as good as long as they are in business.
  8. You know you should be running the correct impeller... other wise why make different impellers? If it's already installed... keep an eye on your flow and the motor heat... I think I saw a chart of 125-160 degrees is an operating temp for a 5hp pump motor.
  9. Not sure but I found this online.... Most residential pool pump motors have insulation ratings of Class B which is good to 130C or 266 F A marked increase in temp of an OEM motor is a sign of corrosion or bearing failure... but from the sampling I found when I googled "spa motor temps" you seem to be in the working range.
  10. I have an older Sundance (Cameo). I think mine heated when the filtering was running (220v).... the filtering was controlled by a mechanical timer switch that was user controlled for "how & when" in a 24 hour period... The timer switch went bad once, as I had replaced it. On the pump that you "freed up", is there rust between the pump and the motor on the shaft? You may have a leak there at the seal that caused the motor/shaft/bearings to wear. Also, have you checked the filter? when they clog up they can inhibit flow.
  11. A valve buried under foam would not be useful... but if you close the valves you can get to, maybe the water loss will be minimal to remove the collar. They make a 2 piece collar so you don't have to cut the PVC,
  12. Is your filter old? Can you remove it and get increased flow. Might be time to replace the filter. If I had the motor out and disassembled I would have at least had the bearings replaced. Maybe a new seal for the wet end? Did the wet test it? Confirm the impleller doe snot have broken or worn vanes? The start up capacitor at the end of the motor is relatively cheap as well. Most any electrical motor shop can change bearings and capacitor cheaper than replacing the motor.
  13. I would say you need to drain, and reseal the lens.... but likely not the only leak. I see the old broken ring that was replaced by a 2-piece ring... any other places where it has been disturbed?
  14. Sounds like you and your wife need to "wet test" (get in)..... look for a home show with demo hot tubs to try.... or go and try a few at a dealer..... petsonally as as a tall guy the longer is a waste on me... wife liked it... but at full whirlpool you can float off....if you wife is small you find that too.
  15. I think if you put a wire brush (circular) on a drill you can remove much of the insulation. Then there types of PVC that slip over the part instead of inside the part. Sometimes you have to use a couple of repair unions. http://www.spadepot.com/Couplings---Reducers-C730.aspx
  16. I just did a search on your motor specs and hit multiple listings.... hp :1.5 volt 230 amp 8.0/2.6 You an also see if there is a local electric motor shop to rebuild yours.. replacing bearinsg and an axle shaft might be cheaper in the long run.... since you will retain the motor housing.
  17. Hey I found the gasket.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sundance-Spas-Heater-Gasket-Smart-Heater-/321961764480?hash=item4af66aa680:g:NEUAAOSwhkRWgvIX
  18. It's a pool motor.. might wanna check locally. The pool places usually have a local builder/supply they might hook you up with...
  19. https://www.amazon.com/Smith-BN37V1-Service-Capacitor-Enclosure/dp/B007ATO18Q Free shipping!
  20. If the housing is leaking, looks like it 1 piece... but is it the hose or the housing? http://www.spaguts.com/products/heater-assy-and-gasket-kit-sundance-smart-heater-5-5kw-220v-60hz-sd6500-310-sd6560-049-141.aspx?gclid=CNGmz9Xw4c0CFYMlgQodad0HPQ You could drain it enough to try some epoxy if the housing is cracked.. cheaper than replacing
  21. http://www.durasportspas.com/Attachment/DownloadFile?downloadId=18 I think the pictures are on page 29 of the drain hose with the blue valve.
  22. I would say the venture valve is bad.. for as cheap as it is, just replace it. Although since you had it tipped up water could be going where it normally would not be.... but easier now to just replace it. Usually the jet body (not the removable inner portion) is sealed to the tub with ... sealant. On some jets bodies there is a pvc ring on the back side you can tighten.. But don't put too much torque on it... From the factory they are just a smidgen beyond hand tight. I don't know about your spa but the face plate is usually decorative... I rebuilt the frame on my tub last year and it got too cold to finish off putting the motors in...
  23. http://www.morganspas.com/ I think I found it Air Venture Valve http://static.veracart.com/morgan/item_images/set_1/411/lg.jpg?1384792030 Some other parts.... http://morganusa.veracart.com/WaterWayFilterBleederDrain-idv-419-38.html http://morganusa.veracart.com/RainbowDrainVent-idv-421-38.html
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