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If it's a small amount of insulation you can just buy some great stuff and spray it on slowly. it's not the best method but if it's a freebie tub and you don't want to invest much in it it will improve the energy efficiency some.

The best advise chem geek gave here that was kind of glossed over is, Turn the temp down to 80. That will not only save you $$$ it will lower the demand of sanitzer.

go back and look at the programming. It may have lost it and defaulted back to 24 hour. My 09 altmar did that a couple weeks ago. Re-read the manual. I forgot which buttons did what and when i did i found that my programming was off.

sundance (which is what the OP is asking about) comes fully foamed, but they offer an insulation wrap for the cabinet as well for added cost. Their bochures show about a 20% reduction in operating costs with the wrap. I don't know why you couldn't just go to Home depot and by the foil bubble wrap insulation for 1/4 the cost and add it yourself.

I would look as a salt water system like the tecnichlor. All the ease of 3 step bromine in a chlorine system. $300 and a little wiring knowledge gets it done.

Good to know. i just finished off my bottle on Friday, so i've got a new one ready to go. I'll keep it inside this time.

i have the same thing going on. When i first filled my tub in may i could shock with bleach and get an immediate spike in bromine levels to over 10-15. Recently I've been shocking and only getting to 4-6 ppm on the bromine. It's the same bottle of bleach and i've left it out on the deck in full sun all summer. Can that affect the bleach even though the bottle is white? I've maintained a good bromine level the whole fill. the only thing i can think of is maybe i've spashed out a little too much of my bromide bank, but I've only had to top off the tub a few times, maybe 50 gallons total.

any Fuses on the board?

how would a floater (if it's set correctly to keep a residual of about 4-5 ppm of bromine) damage anything? it's the same as bromine except it is slowly replacing the bromine as it's used up. Much better way to go.

In three months of my bromine fill, i haven't had to adjust the pH yet (since i added the borax). The only thing i have to do is occasionally (ever 2-3 weeks) add a little baking soda. I keep my TA around 60 and then add when it gets to 40ish. my pH is alwasy 7.6 to 7.8 unless the TA is around 40 then it drops a little to about 7.4. I think where people have struggles with pH is they are trying to keep the TA to a specific number like 80 or 120 or something because the manual says so. The higher the TA the more the pH will rise in my experience. Just let the TA fall and you should not need to add any acid. Even when i shock with a lot of bleach my pH stays ok. I keep my bromine at 4 to 5 typically. CH is about 200 (i overshot on this fill, target is 150).

just move it.

my leisure time tabs disolve fairly quickly, 1-2 weeks max

Here's a thread on aquafinesse and it's pros on cons. otherwise, start by reading the stickies in this forum. start with Nitro's Approach To Water Maintaince then the dichlor/bleach and bromine forums. Also read the Learn from my medical bills thread to understand what will happen if you don't get the proper chemical levels. Also read this thread on Aqua Finesse and make sure you understand EXACTLY how to use it if you want to use it. After you read all that come back with specific questions.

in a bromine spa you can use chlorine to shock as it is will activate the bromide (not a sanitizer) in to bromine (the sanitizer). If you want to convert the bromine spa to chlorine you have to drain it (which if it was filled from previous owners i'd drain and decontaminate it anyway (see the stickies in this forum). That way you know exactly what is in there. The test for chlorine and bromine is the same so there (as far as i know) no way to determine what's in there if you didn't do the fill. Another reason to drain it. Spend some time reading all the stickies in this forum and you'll have all the info you need to decide if you want bromine or chlorine and how to do it. It's very easy and if you follow these plans and the most important peice of info you can follow here is get a taylor test kit as it will save you so many headaches in the future.

stay away from the clear ray. it's marketing and not needed, especially for $900. technically ozone isn't needed either, especially if you are running a chlorine spa.

you could try some of the automotive sound deadening material they sell for custom audio and flooring. It's called dynamat. Put it on the back side of the panels if they are what you think is vibrating. It really works.

your R-0872 is used for bromine. You should have R-0871 in the k-2006. you can use either in a BR spa, just use a different multiplier for the drops. In BR R-0872 is 1.25 drops per PPM in 10ml (0.5 ppm / drop in 25ml) and the R-0871 should be onthe lid of the k-2006 for cl. What ever that is (don't know off the top of my head) multiply the result by 2.25 to get total br.

wow that's a lot of drops. You did it right as far as i can tell. What does your other test say? Do you have any strips you can compare with also? Just sounds like you have a ton of Br in there.

run it with the cover off during the sunlight. That will knock the Br down pretty quick. Use your taylor chlorine test an multiply by 2.25 for br to confirm.

If you have the power hooked up, just fill er up. if you keep the cover on it will stay clean and you don't have to worry about it sitting empty and possibly growing stuff from factory wet testing. It's easier to keep them clean if they have water in them too. plus you are going to be jonesin for that first soak.

if the t-block is the same in the 850 and my 880 then you will not be able to get the green 6 to work. You will have to trim some strands (which i believe is against code though i really don't know). You can use as low as 10 for the ground per code though my 880 manual says to use 8. Sounds like the rest of your plan is good. As for the jumper you can kind of guess and check to see if you get 2 jets + bubbles + heat. You could also just try calling a dealer.

you are trying to keep your TA too high. I know they all the manuals say to keep it at 100 but really it's just a starting point. Mine is typically 55-60 and i don't add BS until it hits 40. I have not used any acid since my initial fill. Bromine tabs and baking soda. That's it. I do have 50 ppm borax too. You are fighting yourself by adding both BS and Acid. just let the TA fall. It will stabilize the PH somewhere around 60 to the point your pH stays rocksteady 7.6 to 7.8. I'm two months into my fill and have litterally used aout 2 cups of BS since my inital balance besides my bromine floater tabs and 6% bleach. Definately put some borates / gentle spa in if you haven't already, they help a lot.

Yeah i was unclear. you need to run a neutral to the GFCI box outside but don't need to go to the spa. I had another 30 feet of wire to get from my disconnect to the spa (though the distance wasn't 1/3 of that). If you do run a neutral to the spa from the GFCI it will trip the breaker (don't ask me how i know).

Yeah i was unclear. you need to run a neutral to the GFCI box outside but don't need to go to the spa. I had another 30 feet of wire to get from my disconnect to the spa (though the distance wasn't 1/3 of that). If you do run a neutral to the spa from the GFCI it will trip the breaker (ask me how i know).

sundance terminal block for the 220 leads accomodates 6 awg easily (probably could handle 4awg). There is no neutral and you just run a 8 awg ground. And yes it's a major PITA to route the wire to the terminals